Strm Trpr

How about answering these questions too.

What jets are in the carbs? You said you just bought this banshee right? Are you using the same oil and fuel pre mix ratio as the PO? Was there a significant elevation change where you're riding now vs. where you bought the banshee?

Clean carbs and set floats to 20+/-1mm.

http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html Check my signature for my mods and jetting.

Look this over http://www.dfn.com/agservices/plugchop.html

is that your wiring harness? if so, send that shit to kory kennedy at kompulsive concepts a pm and see what he can do for you. https://www.facebook.com/kompulsiveconcepts he's a site sponsor, and I can vouch for his work.

your jetting seems right, but your results don't. did you do ride it properly to get accurate plug chop results?

Congrats! You want to elaborate on what exactly fixed your shifting issue.

Nice, thanks Ben.

Yeah, I know, but aren't Snipers hard to get ahold of, and expensive? Is there any dyno info of a 4mil serval on Snipers. IIRC, there's info on a 4mil Cub...

I asked Cam about the dip too, and he said that you wouldn't be able to feel it. CPI's or Snipers and in that order.

FAST Modded Shift Shaft, FAST Easy Spring on Shift Pro Detent/Roller is what's in my 87 and it shifts great! Did you already put the cases back together? if so, that sucks. If not, then send your complete transmission to Cameron at RedLine. Not sure if he needs your lower case half too, but give him a call and ask him what he needs to perform his Pro Mod to your transmission.

In the 3rd pic above, something about the claw just doesn't seem right. Maybe it's the pic's perspective, but how are you adjusting the shift claw? And make sure it's in any gear.

You need washers like what Chariot Performance sells with his o-ring kit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-Head-Oring-Washer-Set-all-but-modquad-heads-/280548521076?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4151feb474&vxp=mtr

Pull your carbs, remove idle screws. Put a piece of blue painters tape in the bore where the idle screws penetrate. And tape off all holes or fittings. Put your carb in a vise and get out a large flat metal file and remove more material off the boss for your idle screws. Did you buy the carb sync tool and tach? Do the comp test and report back with your findings. I just did mine and got 120psi after I ran it. Be patient man, we're here to help, and if you lived closer, I'd help you get your ride running hard...

do the compression test. you said it won't idle. since your airbox is off, run the idle screws in until they touch the slides and you can see the slides move up from the air filter side. raise them up 1mm or so.

you ever do a compression test? do you still have the TORS hooked up? choke tube running between both carbs? carb slides in the correct carbs with the cut-outs towards the air filters?

Post your mod list and results here when you get it running.

Redline 4mil Stk Cyl Dune Port Race Gas http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=169881&hl=%2Bredline Redline 4mil Stk Cyl Dune Port Pump Gas http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=148961&hl=%2Bredline Redline 4mil Serval Pump Gas http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=150211&hl=%2Bredline

Just an FYI, note the jetting... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=148961

just give the bowl a little tappy tap with the handle of a screw driver and see if that helps. sometimes the floats stick and the needle doesn't seal against the seat. Float height for stock carbs.

your plug chops look great. you changed to a billet intake and ported stock reed cages. do you have your stock unaltered reed cages still? if so, put those back in, leakdown test it again, if it passes, then run it and report back.

When you adjusted the eccentric stud you put the trans in gear, correct?

I think you are very rich on the main jet. Put in 320 mains and see how that affects the mid-range.

30 pilots Needle clip middle groove 300 mains 2-2.5 turns out on airscrews