Fireroad Express

no, they are stock size.

selling off a bit of gear i got sitting around in the basement. A-arm spindles $40 A-arm brake calipers - $40 Stock A-Aarm brake lines $20- per pair stock carbs w-cable/ tors removed $40 stock reed cages w/boysen reeds $35 can get pics if you want. thanks!

gapping optimizes your fuel burn. the bigger the flame the better the burn.it maintains a more consistant combustion. some people even go as far as shimming the plugs so the side electrode is not obstructing the incoming fuel charge. this is known as "indexing". there are different schools of thought on this subject. myself, i gap the plugs to stock spec and put em in. if i ran a 200 hp drag bike i might index them as well. :cool:

if you want original keihin replacement parts, try Sudco. they got a website and are great to deal with. i've dealt with them before and they ship fast.

a bench grinder is the ultimate tool for shaping the shift star but you can probably do it with a dremel.just be prepared to go through a few bits and spend quite a while doing it.

Everyone forget about the infamous "Night"? He should be put up for the lifetime HQ douchbag award.that guy was touched by the sun god! the evidence is as follows : Quote by Night: "If you ride Banshee on the sixth gear, full throttle on the highway, in a straight line, with full tank," [1] How many miles can you cover? [2] How long(minutes) before the gas is finished? [3] What problems will it cause to your Banshee? Thread Warning: Giving funny replies to this thread will cause others to do the same, so please give serious, honest, accurate as much as possible answers and replies and responses. Have a nice dawn.

i used to do that with an old KDX 200 i had . just had to carry a bottle of oil. we go by liters up here so figure out your mix ratio per liter. just keep an eye on the pump so you know how much you put in. you'll probably never really drain your tank right to the bottom before you decide to fill it ,so giving a set amount of oil to put in per tank won't really work. go by how much you put in. find out what mix ratio he runs and take the info off the bottle. :thumbsup:

i think someone here, had a dyno sheet showing the power curve of a boost bottle over the stock cross-over. was it wallrat? heh heh. someone post it up! :biggrin:

i got two of them here if ya need it.! used front suspension parts may be cheaper to get for them. not sure if they're lighter or not. brake calipers and spindels are different too(i have a set of those as well). the original rear carrier is also a bit different on J-arm bikes but doesn't matter much.

if the stock petcock/valve can't supply enough fuel to fill the carb bowls its time to invest in a pingel! (or a fuel pump). this is mostly the case with big bore stroker engines. if you are stock bore and stroke, don't bother with one.

pro-design if you want good quality and fit. ricky stator if you want a cheaper alternative. i had to do a bit of light grinding to get my RS plate to fit but it works good. quality suffers a bit on the RS timing plates. pro design is more expensive. :beer:

i used to play but got out of it a couple of years ago. started out with a tippman 98. after that i got into speedball fields so i got an impulse and moddded it out fairly heavily .tweaked it out with the following- I frame , all new designz internals, WAS board,rathole hammer,freak barrel system,delron bolt,titanium pin,halo loader and lpr. After that i sold it and bought a nasty shocker. awesome marker! kept it mostly stock. sold it about a year ago. i still have my old BushmasterLCD back-up marker. makes a good pest/varmint blaster.

mikuni has both TM flatslide carbs and TMX flatslide carbs. if they are a 35mm you probably have a TMXcarb. TMs came in 34,36,and 38. heres a few tips to help identify which carb you have.on the TMs the idle screw is on the right hand side if you are looking at the intake.the TMXs idle screw is on the left. the fuel intake for the TM is on theright. left hand side for the TMXs fuel intake.the screws for the TMs top cover are directly in line or side by side in other words. the screws for the TMX's top cover are in a diagonal pattern with one screw at the front of the cover and one at the back. As far as the TMs go,they're a pretty simple carb to tune. the jet needle can be a pain in the ass to get at though. it takes patience for the first few tries! the extra jet you are talking about is a power jet. i,m not sure what to tell you for price. i just bought two new TM 34s for just under $400.(without power jets).

is this machine going to be used for drag racing or something else? just curious.

you are correct. they work most of the time. better than having nothing.

you'll have to take off the clutch cover to install it. to see the impeller itself without taking off the clutch cover, remove the water pump cover. thats the one right behind the rad hose that goes into the front of the engine. there is another small cover inside and if you remove that one you can see the impeller.

tell your builder you got a +4mil crank and to take that into account when dune porting your jugs.

hey Chev! just so you know, the guy had a few "typo's" of his own in that PM. :thumbsup:

PT mids, dmc 916's or FMF's. pro-circuit and toomey t-5s are good pipes too but come on just a bit higher in rpm range. (imo)

pipes are a good start. try and match the pipes to the kind of riding you do. dunes-> top end pipe, woods/trails-> lowend to mid pipe. unless you go with a stroker crank and big bore jugs stick with the carbs you got now. the stock reeds will probably do for now as well. porting , more compression/aftermarket head , timing advance and aftermarket reeds are all good mods but this all depends on how and where you ride.

like akita8 said. you may have to go up a size on the pilot jet. i had the same thing happen and jetting up fixed the problem. first though, check to see if there is dirt in the carb bowl or the jet itself. it might just be clogged. also , there may be a little water/condensation in your carbs freezing up when it gets cold.

also, try to position the screws or studs on the tire so they are not in line or directly behind the one in front of it. try to stagger them so when the tire is spinning on the ice there are as many "scratch lines" as possible. traction is lost if the studs are running in the same scratch line as the ones in front. in other words try and vary your stud pattern as much as possible for maximum bite.

this is old and has probably been posted before. a few manufacturers got overlooked like CPI, Shearer, and rockets .it may help some of the new guys out. here's the link- http://www.angelfire.com/extreme2/yambansh...s/pipeinfo.html .

so like right before it throws a rod or a piston melts? whats the point? i don't think theres a rev limiter on a shee' and if there is i've never needed it. i guess the sky's the limit. find a dyno sheet for a shee thats been drag ported with an out of frame pipe like rdz's, GRR's or oof shearers and look at the over rev. i guess it all depends on how well the crank is balanced and how high the pipe will let the engine rev. my guess is that you'd probably squeak a piston first before a rod or crank failed. the rpms where the engine blew would vary depending upon the machine and engine mods. come to think of it, this is a really pointless question. :shrug:

if you talking usable power rpm's, on average, about 8 - 10 thou like the snop said. missed shift rpms are alot higher .