Fireroad Express

some one jump in here if i'm totally off the wall on this one but wrapping the pipe may also change the characteristics of the pipe itself.the wrap acts as an insulator retaining more heat. with the hotter inside temp of the pipe, the exhaust pulse would tend to travel at a greater speed to the pipe cone and back to the cylinder, throwing off the intake cycle ,maybe? not sure what effect this would have but a hotter air/fuel mixtue would probably not be beneficial. i'm guessing that the pipe wrap would hold in way to much heat and would probably burn you down.

where are you from ? i can check prices at my local dealership. i'm go'in in town on monday so i can check it out if you want. let me know exactly what kind of decals and color of plastics you are looking for. pics? check out yamaha.ca for our dealership locations.

i'd have to agree with wacko 2000. the 33's are a good choice. you'll always have enough carb for most future upgrades. don't want to go to big either.

try Emery Lynds Enterprises in the truro industrial park. they got everything up there

try dmc 916s or aliens.the gnarly's are good too. they both have a good low end torque and great mid range. you definately need to lose that 12T front sprocket or you'll never hook up. at least go back to the stock gearing set up.this also depends upon how much you weigh and tire size.

give jeff a call on the carbs. he may have some suggestions. always consult your builder on things like this especialy when they are putting together a specific engine package for your intended use. :geek: maybe try a set of 30's.

also if the anodizing on the head was not sealed correctly, the dye can wash out of the anodizing after time.

a black anodized head should be and stay black. this is if the head was anodized with no connection problems and for the right duration at the correct amperage as well as sealed at the right temperature. if the anodize layer is to thin you don't get deep enough penitration with the dye and black can appear to look purple or brownish.

30's or 34"s depending if you have any porting done. with a dune port i'd go for the 34's.

i don't know about a huge weight difference but a-arm frames are alot easier to get parts for. if i was building a trail, MX or dune bike l'd stick with the A-arm frame.

when i ran my airbox i used a rubber coupling made for black pcv pipe. it fit like a glove after i cut it to length . check out your local hardware store!

looks like the ano job wasn't sealed correctly or the head had a bad connection and did't draw the required amperage. probably the sealer though.

welcome to the BHQ!

:ohmy: THIS IS A SMOK'IN F**K'IN DEAL! if i still played i'd be on this fast! these things are well over a grand new. deadly accurate with little recoil. heres an up for a high end marker!

Do you want to sell those tires and rims? or maybe not. let me know.

why trench the cases on a 4 mil? its not required.

if octane booster worked, we wouldn't need race fuel. i'd love to be able to pay $5 for a can of booster than have to pay $80 for a 5gal can of race fuel. performance costs money, theres no way around it.

sounds like its "dieseling" or pre-igniting. it's probably not going to last long either! (the engine) major air leak some where. whats your compression at?(psi).

Wow, sounds like they have a huge overstock of 2 into 1 kits in the warehouse they got to get rid of in a bad way! :biggrin:

Flipped rims- I'm now thinking seriously about flipping them back! it doesn't need to be this wide. good for side hilling though!

try and use a grease if possible. WD-40 is mostly a water dispersant and contains very little lubricant.

spacers- no hp gain just clearance. only run em if you need more room to clear the clutch arm. reeds- run your stockers until you get bigger jugs or at the very least a stroker crank.

Snopcynzki(sp) posted up a dyno sheet on this about a week ago. do a search or scroll down and you should find it.

if you go for used parts in good condition(always ask for pics!) you can get the seller to "low-ball" the declared value on the customs papers and pay alot less than you would buying new. most sellers will give you a break if you ask them to put the declared customs value of a set of used pipes(for example) at $200 instead of the $400 that you paid for them. i built my machine almost entirely from used parts off the BHQ and Planet S& and have no regrets. it avoids the major ass-reaming the customs and revenue agency likes to give people when they import goods into the country. just an option/suggestion to consider while completing your build.

i built my banshee almost entirely from used parts i bought off ebay, planet sand and the BHQ. if you buy from a reputable seller and make sure they are in good condition, used parts are a good way to build up your bike.