Fireroad Express

i got a jug of it that i'm gonna put in the rad for the summer. i heard that it works fairly good.

i want to see a video of it when its finished! it'd be a real wild critter!

started buying parts off here , Ebay and some other site :biggrin: . didn't have a frame yet, just started buying miscellaneous parts. pipes, a stroker crank,intakes,carbs, etc. after a few months, i finally found an add for a J-arm banshee in the paper.i wanted an a- arm frame but figured the "J" would make a good parts bike. i drove way the hell out in the middle of nowhere to pik it up. i checked out the bike and it wouldn't start. (obviously a basket case.) the guy selling it ,was going back to school and needed the money fast.i told the guy i'd take it. he mentioned he also had a few left over parts to go with it. so i got the complete j-arm banshee, 2 a-arm frames, another J-arm frame, a set of rims and tires, a set of pro-circuit pipes,and two boxes full of extra parts , for about $1700. it was quite a trailer load! i sold everything i didn't want and used the money towards upgrades and performance parts for the build.i picked the best of the two A-arm frames and started construction.the engine turned out to be badly trashed, with one squeaked piston and a few teeth missing on the front gear set in the trans .this is an expensive way to build a banshee,but you sure learn alot in the process! oh yeah, major props are owed to the "BHQ" and its members for answering my questions and making good deals on parts. i appreciated the extra effort and trust it took to ship parts accross the border to canada. it made the build go a hell of alot easier and cheaper! anyway, heres a pic of where it all started.....

theres nothing wrong with the pipes you already have. procircuit is a real good exhaust.

yep, i got a book. it is way out of date but it just happened to have your needle in it. it doesn't have any compatability charts for needles and needle jets though.

5fp17- series 5 needle with two tapers (indicated by the two letters), f= 1degree30minute taper, p= 4 degree taper . i think the 17 is some kind of production reference #. Q-2 -needle jet 2.710mm inner diameter. your needle is 2.51mm outer diameter before the first taper.

better get slowpoke to post up his mods. the Q-2s are three sizes richer than the P-6s. that set up would be a kinda rich for what slowpoke is running .

dump tubes or "needle jets". the needle that slides inside the "needle jet" is called the "jet needle". but hey, dump tube sounds good too. check out my sig and see if your mods are similar. if so, the next time i pull my carbs,i'll have a look at the needle jets and see what # they are. if so, you may be safe with the same needle. if it rains tomorrow i might haul the carbs off for a look. the inside diameter of the P-6 tube is 2.680mm if that helps any. you also may want to contact Sudco,com. they have more up to date info on the needles available for the TM flatslide carb with that needle jet.

"glow in the dark", " color flop", " translucent top coats" . you can add a very fine glass or prism powder to it for kind of a sparkle effect. candy apple colors. day glo colors like florecent green or yellow. alot of different colors and shades.

i bought my mikuni tm 34s from 1dirracing.com . $ 187 a piece. pretty good deal. they also came pre-jetted. they were set up pretty close too. just off by a couple of jet sizes (rich).

pretty cool instruments and they don't draw much of your statorr at all.

i really don't see the issue if you can still access the site for free (except for the search function and posting in the classifieds). the search is no big deal, if you can't find it on the HQ first by searching or asking,go to PS and post the question. i also seem to remember a section here on the HQ that only premium members could use!

very cool "inthemail" ! what color did you get? you'll have to post up some pics when you take delivery of it!

ceramic or high temp powder coating may be the answer.

when a company comes out with a "go fast bolt-on product" like this ,they should have to provide some kind of proof that it really works. i know i bitched alot about this thing but $200 is alot for something with questionable performance gains. thier diagram is way off. the air pillow or swirl affect is located under the slide and not in front of it. i'd like to see these run on a flowbench and a dyno to settle it once and for all.(at the manufacturers expense).

anywhere from 33mm to 36mm sounds good to me. 39mm is a bit big for that set-up. (IMO)

i'm also a fan of dual carbs.

i'm 14/42 but have 22" razors on the back. with smaller tires i'd go 14/41.

i'm wish'in i had that rear axel and admit to being just a bit jealous of the new tires and rims. :biggrin: nice buy. congrats! post some pics!

PS is an informative site. i enjoyed calvin's discussion on case pressures and effects of volume on cylinder filling/charging. alot of threads by some of the big players in the sport that are real interesting. they bring alot of knowledge and experience to the table. the dyno section is kinda cool too. the big part of PS for me though, is the classifieds.thats mostly all i go there for.i guess its what you get out of it that determines if you feel its worth paying for,so i'm not gonna whine if i can't access the site cause i didn't pay my $15 . don't go away mad just go away!

the bottom of the silencer has about 10.5 inches of clearance before it would hit the top bearing carrier bolt (if it could). you'll definatley run out of suspension travel before this happens. heres a pic of the mount. :thumbsup:

i'd buy one of those trail-tech computers off E-bay. they aren't that expensive and they work pretty good.

yeah its a well designed mount. will get a few pics for ya tomorrow. it's to cold outside right now :biggrin:

i weigh about 200lbs and have hit the ground fairly hard.i'm fairly sure you can bottom the suspension out and not bend the pipes.

great pipes,good low end and mid range.never hit the swing arm before and the bike has logged alot of airtime.