Fireroad Express

a few names come to mind but i'm kinda partial to "twister" built engines. give louie a call at "Twister Crankshafts". definately one of the top race engine builders . also do a search on here. there are many reputable builders that can put together a well built 10mil for you.

you'd just ship the jugs to get ported. fast has a pretty good rep judging by what people on here are saying. jeff should be able to answer any jetting and set-up questions you have for him.a rejet will probably be required. i'm not sure on cost, but probably between 350 and 400? good luck with your build!

a polish is usually just done in the exhaust port. some people or builders, polish it to a smooth , almost mirror-like finish.this is mostly done to complete or complement a porting job. usually to make any significant difference in power, changes are made to port widths and heights. intakes and transfers may also be reshaped. it all depends upon the results the builder is trying to achieve. an exhaust port polish alone will not gain much if any power what so ever without a good porting job. send your jugs (cylinders) to a reputable builder and get them ported. don't attempt porting yourself.

i'd save the 250 and put it towards a good port job. think ahead and plan your buys for your anticipated mods in the future. for example,if you think you may want a stroker crank, start keeping your eyes open for a good deal on a set of larger carbs.

the bolts on the sides of the cylinders.

because it adds to total displacement, there would be a power gain right from bottom to top. since it gives you more pull out of the hole, it is just more noticable on the bottom. so the answer to the question would be "C", all of the above!

i think big red's pics are down(too bad ) there are other rebuild pics on this site- www..dunereview.com. this is a great guide for anyone rebuilding a shee engine. good luck bro !

yo , i pm'd ya with some more info. i'll have a look at the dump tubes on friday.i let you know what size they are. the jetting i have listed in my mod list is for 50 F to 60 F .

yep, your looking at a complete tear down. a tedious job indeed! but there is no better way to learn about your shee than a complete overhaul. consider it a learning experience. some people go for years without really understanding whats going on inside the engine! try to work in a clean area as there are alot of parts that can go missing! have fun!

yep, a good dealer would dummy up a receipt for his warranty claim and give you a new gauge. or he could sell you a new gauge for cost. t snap-on usually sells good quality stuff so a compression gauge should last alot longer than two years if it was taken care of properly.unfortunately these guys have so much warranty coming back at them from years of selling lifetime warrantied tools, they tend to catch shit from thier field managers (management) for any unjustified warranty returns.

what are your mods? i switched to 34 tm's a month ago. let me know, i'll try and help.

the cause of the compression problem should be instantly identifiable upon taking the cylinder head off! look for a big hole in the center of the piston, or a piston cracked around the edge with a broken ring. when was the last time the engine was running?

i got the 916s and really like them so far. i run a 4mil dune ported motor and the combination of mods and pipes seems to work fine. great bottom and mid power. oh yeah,,, they sound real nasty too!

i had to do some filing and sanding to get my adjustable timing plate to fit, but other than that, i got no big complaints about the product.

yo dude, what part of the province are you from? lay-offs and unemployment is running rampant around here lately! alot of people are leaving for alberta so you should be able to pick up something to do fairly easily. its just tough to find something that pays well. i'd take-off out west for a couple of months myself if it wasn't for the wife and kid. hope your situation improves and good luck with you jobs search! try www.theworkplace.ca .

pm me with your zip code and i'll get you a shipped price for the spindle. thanks!

wait until you get a stroker crank and some porting or a bigger bore. your stock carbs should be big enough to keep up with your current mods.imo :cool:

if i don't find a set by then i'll definately look you up. thanks!

will trade a stock crank for a set of 10" rear rims (to fit a banshee).crank is in good runable condition. i also have spindles,stock carbs,calipers and stock intakes w/crossover and cages w/boyseen reeds.

if you are trying to get anything from the states and want to get it by christmas, you should order it now. canada customs is backed up solid. some people have waited a month to get parcels from the U.S. . lots of cross-border shopping going on this time of year due to the strong dollar.

yeah me to. the hurricane blew out my power/internet before i could get the guys pay-pal address! :: Doh!!!

its getting to be that time of year. had a few snow fluries here today. got me thinking about running the bike this winter instead of putting it away until spring. whats everybody run for traction aids? snowmobile studs or tire screws? do you use some type of sealant for the stud holes? i got about 3 miles of frozen lake to play on.(more than enough room to melt a couple of pistons! ). just wondering what type of stud to use and how many to put in.

just a guess, but they look like carbs off of a 99' 670cc ski-doo mxz h.o. snowmobile.

i don't have the a-arms just the spindles and calipers. i can get you pics of them if you want. they are in good condition.let me know !