Fireroad Express

whats a boost bottle? :biggrin:

yes , the spindels and calipers are different on J-arm bikes. so are the front brake lines i think.

there should be springs in behind the screws keeping tension on them. if they're not there, the screws will come loose.

even the 916's muffler is divided into two sections, so the exhaust gas from one pipe never comes into contact with the other. i have never seen a cross-over being used on a 2 stroke. i doubt it would be very effective. one of the strangest 2 stroke exhaust set-ups i've seen were "center dump pipes" on a snowmobile. the pipes exhausted in the center of the expansion chamber and the exhaust end of the pipe just came to a cone with no opening. ski-doo used these pipes on some of there late 90's formula machines. good power and awesome fuel mileage were characteristics of these machines.

sounds like a pretty good mod list to me. you could probably save some quid and stick with the stock reeds. if you are going after a bit more compression and maybe some timing advance a cool head might be a good idea. either Noss heads or pro design are good choices. noss is a site sponsor and offers a discount to BHQ members so that'd be the guy i'd deal with. he can also answer any compession questions you might have. toomeys have a good reputation, but it all depends on what kind of riding you do. your machine should still be v reliable providing your jetting is right.

is that the drill sargent from Full Metal Jacket? man that guys a legend. where did you run into him at? very cool pic!

if its loading up on the bottom its more than likely the pilot jet or mixture screw. check and see what size of pilot jet is in there. i run a 45 pilots and the mixture (air) screws are at two turns out.

check out my sig for a mikuni tm 34 carb set up. i'll set you a pm for more info on it.

yep, we got the biggest oil reserves in the world next to saudi arabia and we're still getting ass-raped at the pumps! there's definately something wrong here.

plugged pilot jet maybe?? R U running stock carbs?- disconnected choke tube?

yep! thats just the way it is up here ! 92 octane pump fuel is $1.21 a liter or about $4.60 a gallon!!! theres about 30 million of us up here, all getting bent over by the oil companies!

so ok, everyones paying out the arsehole for fuel. has anyone here ever changed to lower compression domes and gone back to running regular pump fuel (92 octane). if so what kind of a power loss did you experience? lack of low end and poor acceleration? not to much of a difference at all? i've never run anything but 110 oct fuel in my banshee but at $85 for 5 gallons i'm considering the switch. i'd like to know what to expect with the change. i'd be going from 18cc domes to 21cc. P.S.-sorry about hijacking the thread .

have never seen them before. when do they come on the pipe( hit the powerband) low , mid, or top end? i ve seen the 2 into 1 dynoport pipe and it is based around low end and mid range power.i would suspect they would be a mid range pipe but thats just a guess. anyhow,look at it this way, they got to be better than stock!

yeah, i know the feeling.i paid in for quite few years. last year was hopefully the end of it. hoping to get a refund this april.

5 Gal can of 110 octane = $85 :shoothead: . its sold under the arctic cat brand name. not sure who the manufacturer is. VP, Klotz??

i found this stuff at "Carquest", an automotive supply store. any auto supply store should have it. and again , if no one has mentioned it already, .... this is some nasty shit! use carefully!

you might try this stuff in the pic.it will take off just about anything. this is nasty shit!

no.

basically the J-arm frames were only made in 87. the top suspension strut was shaped sort of like a "J" instead of an"A". there were also differences in the front brakes and spindles on these two frames.when buying parts make sure you get calipers and spindels for the specific frame you are ordering them for. a couple of changes in the wiring harness, rear axel carrier(87-88) and other small parts but other than that everything has stayed the same,including the engine.

a couple of bars, a liquor store, a walmart and a place to buy bike parts and race fuel would be nice. seems to be alot of room outside town. it would make a good rid'in area.

yep , the site has come a long way. even since i've joined in 05'. alot of very useful info on here from alot of experienced owners and builders. bought alot of parts off the "for sale" section and never had any problems with any of the gear i received from sellers on this site.do a search if you are looking for info but if you can't find it there, post a question and someone will probably help ya out. there has been a few shit disturbers around over the years,but they usually get sorted out pretty fast. anyhow, welcome to the site and good luck with your build up. with the looks of the list you got go'in you're off to a pretty good start.

great looking kits. i bought one for my machine last year. they look good but i wouldn't trust them for any high torque applications like on the head or cylinders. also, i wouldn't use them on the shock mounts or anywhere on the suspension(front or rear). i mostly used them on the stator cover, clutch cover, intakes, brake resevoirs, throttle cover, mounting the body plastic and anywhere that strength wasn't a critical factor. i find these fasteners are alot softer then the stock nuts and bolts and i just wouldn't trust my life to them. IMO

heres a few suggestions. you're probably going to be looking for a pipe that makes mostly low to mid range power. you can try pt mids, dmc 916 or aliens, and FMF's . pro circuits and toomeys are also good choices but thier power is based more on mid range . these are all good pipes. i would try to avoid the 2 into 1 pipes. i mostly run on fire roads and in gravel pits. i try to avoid mud as much as possible. enjoy your build up!

look in your clymers manual and find out the torque spec on the flywheel nut. the woodruff key is mostly only for the correct positioning of the flywheel on the crank. the taper on the crank is what keeps the flywheel from turning on it when it's tightened to the correct torque spec. the key will break if the flywheel is not fastened on the crank tight enough

Twister(louie) did my cylinders and i was impressed with the work and the power. good service as well. i see alot of the stuff he builds and it seems to be very competitive with other builders.