Hilarious

Just exactically how much of a commitment is a cub, mr. G? Say a fella has all the condiments and sides to go with the main course of the meal, the cub monoblock cylinder. What I really wanna know is how much of a pain are they to install with only one pair of hands. :beer:

Were'nt some of ya'll suggesting that 35's were too big for a ported stock cylinder setup, in another thread?

here's vick's cell mate.

TORS, throttle override system. Supposedly, if your carburetor slides stick open they are supposed to govern the ignition, not let the engine rev out. Say.... causing you to run off hauling ass at warp speed into a tree. You should be fine. Also remove the little box under your gas tank.

It does look like you have the upper a-arms on the wrong sides. :shrug: I cant remember which is camber and caster but, the adjustment on the upper a-arms, What I did was screw the rear heim all the way into the a-arm and the front heim, screw it all the way in and back it out about 4 turns. What this is supposed to do is place the upper ball joint behind the lower ball joint. This will make it less squirlly at high speeds. :laugh: I have different a-arms than you but its the same concept. Edit: it looks like the ball joint on the upper a arm is facing up in the last pic. :shrug:

You can either tie wrap them up into the frame, outta sight. Or cut them out of your wiring harness. Also pull the little box in the left side of your frame under the gas tank. :beer:

Going fast costs money, period. A set of dual barkers, power commander and an intake will set you back about a grand. That right there will wake the bike up. You can also get cams, pistons, big bore kits and so on. And you can tune it all in with your laptop instead of changing jets. :geek: In the end, you're still comparing apples to oranges.

I thought we were talking about 35mm carbs on a dune ported stock cylinder setup. :shrug: My bad, as I have a 64.5mm bore with and extra 4mm of stroke. What is that, like 370 somthing? Technically, I doubt there are any true 350cc dune ports here. Dont most builders bore the next size or at least do a hone? They may have a stock stroke but not a true 64mm bore.

I assure you that I do not have some mix matched parts (components) on my banshee. My engine was set up and ported for the 35's on it and I'm pretty sure everything is working in harmony. And yes, it runs good. IMHO it should have come this way straight from the yamaha show room floor. :laugh:

I gotta add my 2 cents to this thread. I have 35 pwks on my 4mill dune port and I have shearers and the mother fucker runs damn good and plenty of bottom, mid and top end. I dont see what the fuss is all about. Put the 35's on there and see how it does. :thumbsup:

Are any of you guys having trouble getting your halo 3 disc to load? 9 times out of 10, when I pop the disc in the screen just freezes right at the first game menu. I did finally get the game to load up and played solid for 4 hours with no issues. Pretty fun game. The brutes are total bad ass too and are really fun to kill. Oh and the gravity hammer.

I have both. PS3 has the hardware and the 360 has the better games, right now. I say get the 360. I have'nt seen any games worth a damn for the ps3 yet. Although, blueray movies on the ps3 look awesome on a good tv. :beer:

The crank seal on the tranny side, as far as i know, only way to replace that is by splitting the cases. Didnt you say it had a new one in there? I think you answered your own question about syncing your carbs. Are your carbs jetted correctly for any mods you have? Post up your mods. :beer:

cascade innovations

Is there evidence of the stroker plate between the cylinders and top case? Some use a plate in there. :shrug:

Someone told me, now this is with a good port job, with the 4 mill...about 2-3 bike lengths in a good drag race..

Who does that? :shrug: +1 on the cascade pancake adjuster. I like it cause it has the allen head screw in it instead of the phillips head stocker.

Milling, or shaving the head raises compression by making the combustion chamber smaller. In a way, the air and fuel charge are making a larger explosion due to the smaller cumbustion chamber. Therefor making more power. Also, the more compression you have increases the need for higher octane fuel. A low octane fuel will burn quicker in a high compression engine causing detonation which will lead to damage. The octane of a fuel is the resistance of it burning. The aftermarket head has better cooling properties along with the intercangable domes allowing you to change your compression. And they look cool too. :beer:

:woot: Yes there should be a minute amount of play in there for expansion. I dont know how much as I do not have my clymers handy. I'd say put it back together and check your compression. Check your reeds and then sync your carbs. You never really said what the smoke smelled like other than saying "heavy burnt oil". Did it smell kinda like burning engine oil, like a car or lawnmower, or premix. Or did it have a really sweet smell to it. Heavy premix, your carbs most likely need adjusting. Burning oil, like a acar or lawnmower, most likely right crank seal letting tranny oil into the crankcase. Sweet smell with white smoke, usually coolant getting in your combustion chamber. Hope this helps.

I have a rear brake lever you can have if the other guy falls through. Just let me know and good luck. Get that fucker, Dave!!! :mad: I'm behind you all the way. Actually 5 states or so but, Im still behind ya.

Get the dune port with a 4mill crank set up. He wont be dissapointed. :thumbsup:

I dont know. Looks a like a funner ride than a grizzly to me. :geek:

Im sorry, should have been more specific. Keep an eye on the level of oil in your tranny to see if it is using any. Also are your carbs in sync with each other? Are your reeds in good shape also? Did you check your compression?

I put mine on with an air impact wrench. :geek: They are really handy to have around. :beer: