Hilarious

clymers says 20-22mm :thumbsup:

From what I have seen, the 7mill is the same price as a 10. And once you go beyond 4 you have to trench your cases. The 4 mill is drop in.

I dont think anyone came out and said, "hey motherfucker, you're wrong about that antifreeze shit." As far as being ASE certified, what does that really have to do with knowing anything about working on cars? I think it gives you a reason to wear a nifty patch on your shirt and a plaque to put on the wall. I've had some ASE certified mechanics fuck up a few of my vehicles. So, I dont have much faith in the mechanics that work directly for auto manufacturers. So with that being said.....dont mix the green shit with the red shit unless is says you can do so on the bottle. Other wise you'll get some messy goopy shit that will clog your shit up. :laugh:

Modquad has them. Cheapest alternative would be to get rid of the overflow bottle completely. :beer:

Cant be any worse than having orange or pink shit in there. :thumbsup: I'd suggest going to a doctor on that one. :geek:

If that is the case, why is it that the manufacturers still use the "green stuff" in quads? :geek: I thought all the rubber components in the cooling system were more susceptible to heat. :shrug: I believe the owner's manual calls for eythlene glycol based coolant. That's what I use, with a bit of water wetter and it does well. I wouldnt use bottled water either. Its got minerals in it. Either use distilled or get the premixed stuff or get what everyone else uses, engine ice.

Not really sure whom you are directing that at but, mine sure makes a helluva lot more power over a stock ported, stock stroke, tuned and piped banshee. And thats bottom all the way to the top end.

Man that's weird. That's how mine is jetted and it will lift the front end with the +4 swing arm and it feels like I shoulda went with a longer swing arm. Mine will drink the fuel too, compared to when it was stock but its night and day difference from when it was stock. What have you decided? Have you talked to Jeff?

Forget that dirtbike and bring that 'shee down here and trade it for this 97 gmc pickup that I have instead. Haha. What kinda shape is your banshee in. What are ya lacking?

Man, if you weren't so goddamn far away I'd tell ya to come borrow my trailer. Everyone else around here does. Lol Get what ya can and get outta there. Hope ya'll stay safe. :beer:

Here's to a speedy recovery. :beer: THis has been a crazy year for everyone. Hang in there.

Welcome to the BHQ. :beer:

I have the kenda klaws on the front also and they are awesome. They track well and have lasted a long time also. I have to agree. They are really heavy but, I like them better than the holeshots and fast trekkers that I have had. They have worn better too. They are a good trail tire tho.

Bump for a really nice bike and fellow rider from mississippi..... :beer:

I have to strongly agree. Are you getting traction? After I got my 4mm dune port, I instantly had a problem getting traction. The tires would spin like crazy.

How much? Are you interested in any trades?

I have a lockup on my bike and only difference I can tell about it is my clutch doesnt slip at all. Im not saying that it would slip without the lockup on my current set up. Its an extra 400 bucks and you get a quick change cover so you dont have to pull the whole side off and that means draining your coolant too. While you're in there, might as well get a new inner hub, pressure plate, upgrade the basket and install a pankcake bearing on the adjuster. :beer:

Yes. There's a couple ways to run the stroker crank. The most popular is to have your cylinders ported and your head machined, or domes if you are running the cool head, for the additional 4 millimeters of additional stroke. Or, you use this spacer plate and I believe it goes between your cylinders and top case. The deal with that is you have to use (2) base gaskets which, in worst case scenario will give you an additional potential area for an air leak. To stroke or not to stroke. That is the question. Lol

Sent you a pm.

I dont know if you would notice much of a gain with stock porting but, there is definately extra power to be had with porting and the extra 4mill of stroke. If you know you have problems with the crank, rods and bearings and have to open the engine you might as well throw the stroker in there. :beer:

I say post em. :shrug: And what's with the "tubby" crap? Come on man.

Thats the best answer I have read yet. :laugh: It seems that all the TORS do is cause trouble for most banshee riders. All they do is act as a governor on your ignition system if they sense a stuck wide open carburetor slide.

I've got one of Jeff's dune ports with 4mill crank and its deffinately a blast to ride. I had CPIs on it and switched over to shearers and it seems to just run better with the shearers. Even though everybody here says the shearers have no bottom or midrange, IMO my bike has just enough of that and a nice kick ass top end. Its a fuckin handfull in trails tho and I wouldnt reccomend it for anything technical. :beer:

No sir, i believe same setup here, duneported, stock cylinder. :laugh: Edit: My shearers fit better than the CPI's that I had. Espically in the subframe. The air filter clearance is simply awesome. I did have to shim the left expansion chamber, like everyone else. I am too running a duneport with the shearers and 35pwks on a 4mill crank and it runs awesome. Not really too sure on the variance of each builder's duneports though.

What's it about the shifting part? Clutch pull at the bars or getting it into each gear from the power transfer into the transmission? 2 and a half of your grunts = 28ft lbs. Lol