Hilarious

you should have (3) different length springs. the longest one goes in between forks (1) & (2). the shortest one goes on the stator side. the mid length one goes on the clutch side.... :thumbsup:

+4 +8

why not just pull one of the plug wires? :thumbsup:

that's funny ..... :thumbsup:

how much for the calipers?

the circlips are what keeps the wrist pin in place in the piston. not sure what you mean by loose cylinder. figuratively speaking i think you would know if your cylinders were loose. lol the cross hatching is the pattern that the hone makes in the cylinder wall. if you have a good many hour on your engine, chances are your rings are worn out and yes, you will not have as much compression. also, you can run your fingernail along the top of the bore to see if it catches on the edge. where the piston ring stops near the top of the cylinder it will leave a "ridge". of course the best way to tell cylinder wear would be with a bore gauge.

Im curious as to how much your frame weighs. Why do you say that? I have seen a couple of drag ported 350's run pretty dang hard.

here is my f.a.s.t. 4mm cub. runs pretty good with a fat boy on it. :thumbsup:

black crushed velvet looks great on a blue bike........... :thumbsup: regular velvet blue flame seat cover

that's what i used to do. i use 927 and it would leave a faint "fried chicken" taste whereas the unmixed fuel was really dry .............. :thumbsup: mixed fuel will leave an oily residue.

these are your heim joints. these are really nice, especially on your rear strut. you can use them to adjust the angle of your swingarm as to how hard your atv will launch.

is what you are saying is that one of your carb slides has a bigger opening cut into it for the idle circuit? .... :shrug:

the slides are supposed to be at the same height.

like said, its either your impeller seal or the o-ring on tube. be a good idea to replace both. you will have to pull the clutch cover and you may have to replace the gasket there if it gets buggered while taking the cover off. i am pretty sure no-one local will have the gaskets. as for the air filters, i been using outerwears on mine. if you are in a bind, get you some pantyhose. lol you headed to sandhill this weekend? where are you riding sand at?

just use the large screws on top of the tors units to set your idle and sync. do this with the air filter off. without a syncronization tool, you will have to just "eyeball" the slides to get them as even as possible. :thumbsup: BTW i really like that 50th anniversary edition.

FYI: mid length spring goes on shaft first (twards clutch side of motor) longest spring between forks (1) & (2) shortest length spring goes on last (twards stator side of motor)

my engine really shines after a good wash :teehee:

if it was me, i would replace all the seals, water pump, kicker and install a new cover gasket. also inspect the small vent nipple below the water pump and the o-ring on the by-pass tube. :thumbsup: it sucks putting your cover back on and filiing with fresh fluids and have it leak.

they work well. they do not have hi and low beams. the options that you have is a spot and flood beam. i believe the set that i had, had one of each.

as far as 4mill vs 10mill, i think it is all in how well your bike is set up to the track. i ran a couple of 10mills and beat them and i have also been beat by several 350 stock cylinder bikes. :teehee:

i take it that smaller piece takes place of the nut that holds the sprocket in place?

i also have a magnum basket. still looked good when i last tore my engine down with a season and a half on it. it does come with new cushions and mounting hardware. its also a good idea to use red locktite on the mounting screws upon reassembly of your clutch.

yes. i do not remember the size but, i used a socket to push the bearing and seal out of the cover. replace the seal and bearing.

imo a duneable override transmission is one of the best mods......

most likely the clutch not wanting to disengage.