Hilarious

i have one of those crossovers, a us150 and a us25 that i bought back in 1995 and i am still using them to this day. that's the smaller amps in the picture?

thanks. fullbore front and a stock, cut rear.

10x4 direct drive spindle mounts w/ 18x5 tripple buff smoothies. :thumbsup:

that's what i keep telling myself. :thumbsup:

any of you guys going out there this weekend?

anyone going to be there this weekend?

that would do really well in the dunes. add an adjustable timing plate to that. i would not bore the cylinders out any more than required. you dont really gain anything by doing that and you shorten the life of your cylinders. what kind of fuel are you going to run? that thing would run really well on race fuel if you have access to it. :beer:

you are looking at the wrong setup for a trail bike. i would look at getting a set of oem cylinders with a dune port or some kind of trail port. cubs are not trail friendly at all. i can not speak for the cheetahs for i have not ridden one. they do have power valves though, which are supposed to smooth out the powerband a bit.

you have experience in this area. j/k :yelrotflmao: 4mm cub is a heck of a nice engine to dune and drag with. you say you are going to have a budget of 5k? that alone, would probably get you started. lol you will need suspension and tires too. i have found out that tires are not cheap.

i would recommend getting the parts from an engine builder. one of those ads says the crank has been trued and welded. i would much rather have a builder weld and true it and to add more fuel to the fire, go with either maxload or tz bearings on the crank. an extra 4mm of stroke would be a good addition.

it isnt a R6 engine. it is a yzf600r engine. (2) different animals but in the same genre. :geek: the R6 has a little bit different power band from the 600r. I have ridden both. i own a 600r and it will scat, so it should move that ltz400 chassis pretty good.

whatever your budget is, plan on at least spending double that amount. It starts out fun and ends up being an obsession.

all my 2strokes have had residue left in the exhaust. its pretty much normal. if its just dripping out of your pipes, its either rich or you are lugging your bike around and its loading up with oil. are the carburetors in good synchronization with each other? very nice banshee specimin you have there. :thumbsup:

jihad durka durka pork chops taste good, bacon tastes good.... i also love me a big juicy ribeye every now and then. :thumbsup:

and moo cow fuck milk

do yall ever listen to the comedian, lewis black? that is doctor fuck phil. :yelrotflmao:

Isnt that the bbq restauraunt? omg i am starved. I (heart) bbq.

the best boost bottle you can get can be made from materials you find at Lowes. You will need approx. 3 linear feet of 1 1/4" nominal diameter sch80 pvc pipe, (2) pipe caps, (3) 1 1/4" X 1/2" reducing tees, (1) 1/2"X1/8" threaded reducer, 1/8" X 1/4" hose barb, roughly 4-6 feet of 1/4" vaccum line and some sort of a gauge. you can fasten all said parts together in about a day's time. by installing the gauge, you can keep an eye on the pressure in the intake tract. i love having gauges all over my bike. makes me feel more in control on what my engine is doing. here is a diagram. the TORS units are a different story. there are many ways around this. a lot of people like to install aftermarket carburetors or even modify the stock ones by installing new caps and an idle kit. I did something totally different. I made myself a set, and yes you guessed it. again, i went to my favorite store, Lowes. God damn, you would be suprised at the things that a person with a healthy mind could conjure up in that place. anyhoo, i started off with a fishbowl, omfg, even though it is a small one, you will never again run out of fuel on long runs anymore and it elimintates the need for a fuel pump. i wont really go into much detail here as i cant really talk about it due to legal reasons. but it consists of a small fishbowl, homemade float, copper tubing and pvc piping. also i eliminated the need for jets by using needle valves on each fuel circuit.

Do it then and post up pictures. i wouldnt put that junk on any of my bikes. I dont see how it could be done safely or efficiently.

I have a question sir. what exactically are you a dealer for? skat track, boss and what else? i have seen a lot of posts of you offering deals to members on several different sites.

post up some pictures if you say it will work. if you split the arms in the middle and tack in extra length you just create a shear point in the arms. adding any extra gusseting or whatnot to lengthen the arms is just going to add weight. and what have you gained in the end?

i am. did you not see my gentle thoughts for the day on the first page of this thread?

i'd recommend one for sure on the bottom. i do not run one on the top though. i am using one from a yzf450. i think i paid 12bucks for it.

i had a set of those on my warrior. they were very nice tires. very agressive tread design and they felt very similar, weight wise to the razr 2's that i had. those are a heavy tire as well.