Hilarious

looks like an ordinary noss head with 17cc domes to me. i cant really tell if there is a spacer plate between the base of the cylinders and engine case. like someone already said, since you have the head off, crank the bike over slowly and bring each piston up to TDC (top dead center) and see how far the piston rises up out of the bore if any. you most likely have a 350. in that case, order up some 21 cc domes and back your timing plate down to +4 (you did say it was a couple notches above +5 right?). 0 degrees will be where the top and bottom half of the engine cases meet.

bike is back up for sale. or would like to trade for a dual sport motorcycle.

The real advantage of a duneable override is being able to shift under full load and being able to do it quickly under full throttle. I dont know all the configurations but i have a neutral down 1-5. Neutral is all the way down, duh, clutch it to put it in 1st. Once you launch, its WOT, hold on for dear life and just bang away at the gears. No clutch work or letting off the gas to shift the gears. The duneable feature means that you can backload it (meaning, let of the gas and let the engine slow you down) to a certain extent without tearing up shift forks.

your compression gauge is going to read low untill those rings seat. run it a bit and let the rings seat then come back and check it again. the dune motor that jeff did for me ended up having about 185-190 psi. i dont remember the dome size. they were either 18's or 19's.

get some prowedges and come to the springhill track in north ms .......... springhilldirtdrags.com its not to far from memphis. that track hooks really hard with the wedges. you may want to bring some extra sprockets with you when you go. pops is good too, i will be making it out there as well next season.

shearers ftw

i usually pack a little bit of grease in the crank seals. threebond works great!

sorry guys, i think i am going to keep it.

preferably one of equal value or lesser and some extra green. quite honestly, i rode this thing again today and i hate to admit it but i do believe this thing would smoke a stock, piped banshee. and just by looking at this bike you can not tell it has the hrc kit. anyone not familar with these bikes and the hrc kit, it consists of: a hotter cam larger exhaust head pipe silencer insert a pig tail that plugs into the existing wiring harness under the hood that supposedly bypasses the rev limiter and changes the timing curve jet kit (requires removal of the airbox lid) and some other misc pieces.

i forgot to mention my cub was drag ported. Jeff knows his shit on these motors too.

i have 175 mains, 52 pilots, CEL needles on middle clip, (2) turns out on air screws. runs like an ethiopian chasing a donut that's rolling down a hill. i think all of our motors are the same but different. lol

adsifhcg;ahgchaseglhda;gohads;ghdcgl hdghdgdhsgchdghdslghd/khvksdhvsdkhvcsdkhd

this is no ordinary 450r. this one has been injected with the new H1N1 vaccine. i'll trade for a banshee, dirtbike, 4X4 pickup, jeep, or 4500$.

I have a 07' honda trx450er for sale or trade. 4500 obo. just got this thing about 2 months ago as a left over model. it is still on 2nd tank of fuel. also has hrc kit professionally installed by me. also have a hotcam valve shim kit to go with it. the bike is located in central mississippi. this thing is just way toooo much bike for me. i do not know what i was thinking when i got it.

i dont know where you are getting your info from but, the can-am ds450 has "whimpy aluminum" all over it.

i just picked up an 07' trx450er and was kinda disapointed in it till i installed the hrc kit. the kit consisted of a cam, larger exhaust head pipe, jet kit, exhaust pipe insert and some other minor misc parts. a good cam and exhaust will wake that bike up.

i'm going to try one more time, dutch. you going to be out saturday?

word.....

looks like a master cyl off of a street bike. i dont see why that wouldnt work as long as the reservoir is secured.

most of the damage i have seen from chain wacks are cosmetic. the things you need to look for on used cases are clean mating surfaces, bent/stripped studs, missing motor mounts, ect.... also the clutch actuator bearing on the top case. its not too big a deal but can be a real PITA to replace. as far as the trans components, you can go to bikebandit and look at the parts fiche and order directly from them.

+1 on the WD40

if possible, get some treated 2x6's. kind of pricey but that's what i recently replaced the floor on my utility trailer with.

i am going to try to be there.

sorry about the confusion. you should be able to connect to the black/white striped wire.

i am assuming you have removed everything including the key switch. where it says tap into the igniton wire between the cdi and coil, which would be the orange wire on our banshees. you should have a white/black striped wire running to the cdi. wire it into that instead.