Hilarious
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Everything posted by Hilarious
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i am guessing 180ish? i need to check mine to see what it is.
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your starting problem is in the pilot circuit. have you tried turning the air screws in almost fully seated?
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i am wanting to say that i have 178 mains, CEL needle on middle groove, 60 pilots and +7 on the timing w/ drag port right around sea level. this is on a new engine so i have not started leaning it out any. i do know it is a bit fat on the low end. starts up w/ no choke. runs like a mad man on top and isnt breaking up.
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do you have your air screws adjusted at all? i'd set them about 1.5 turns out from lightly seated and go from there.
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i'd look at putting new o-rings in the pipe flanges. i use the 927 @ a 32:1 ratio and have not had any problems. i also use the maxima mtl in the trans.
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that right there is probably the best deal you are going to find. lmao a new fullbore front end is going to cost you in the neighborhood of 300 bucks. imho, all you need is the front end. even a laker style front would look good on there.
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i would suggest getting a swingarm with the round house "honda" style carrier. they do cost a bit more but you will not have any more issues when tightening your chain. just my opinion.
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stock oem cylinders take a oblong rubber plug. cheetah cub cylinders take a 1/4" npt plug. i used 3bond on mine. the same stuff i use to seal the cases.
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yfz450 hands down the winner. banshees are not that fast.
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vforce 3's replacement reeds are snap in. the vf2 reeds are held in place with the screws it is highly recommended to use locktite on the screws. :thumbsup:
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i would have to disagree on that one. v-force 3 reed cages all the way. :thumbsup:
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adjust your air screws first. if the pilots are too small, turn the air screws in a little bit at a time. if you get past one full turn from lightly seated, its time to go the next size up on the pilot. :thumbsup:
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several people have suggested good pipes. you can remove the airbox lid allowing the engine to breathe and increase air flow. depending upon where you will be riding, i would suggest going to a "pod" style filter that fits directly onto the carbs. if you will be riding through lots of water, i would not go this route.
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have you tried pulling those bolts out and prying the silencers apart? :shrug:
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whats this cheater kit? are you talking about a cheetah cub cylinder?
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flywheel and stator, how much? and what year is that bike?
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105 psi sounds low to me, provided that it is stock? good compression on a stock engine should be somewheres around 120 ~ 130 depending on where you are. make sure you use a good tester.
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stock banshee is 64mm bore X 54mm stroke
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word :geek:
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neutral down. clutch it to put it in 1st gear. hit the throttle wide open, dump the clutch and hold on for dear life and just bang away at the gears. lol
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i am assuming you do not have an override trans with your 10mm? i have not had any trouble shifting my 1-5 dunable under full throttle. whats another 350 when you have already spent 2g's? just my opinion but after riding mine with the override, its hard for me to go back to a riding with the stock trans.
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yeah they will fit but those are steel wheels. imo you would be better off ordering some aluminum wheels from rockymountainatv for about the same price. i would get a douglas .125 10X8 wheel. they have them for 42.99 ea. i have had bad luck with dennis kirk in the past. they are way over priced and their customer service is just down right terrible.
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it looks fine to me. some may argue that you are rich from amount of carbon on the crown on the piston. put it back together and ride it. :thumbsup:
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no. it will make it harder to shift under power. they are best used in conjunction with an override trans for drag racing and hard duning.
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some of us cant help being slow due to not being able to put the fork down. i am the perfect example.