Shee-Male

pm sent

nice to see sanddemon being helpful ....You know ya love me Anyways...Ya definatley lighten your flywheel you will love it...I do If you work with or have access to a lathe its not that hard to do, your just removing material from the flywheel without removine the contacts for your ignition, I did my own and it was pretty sraight forward, I took about 7oz's off.

I dought it, you may not even notice much dif.? But porting...... don't black ball it cause you didn't like 1 bike, there are porting options available for all riding types/styles, and the mods that go along or compliment it make all the differance, who knows who ported the bike you rode or if it was jetted rite or if the whl\ole combination of parts was mismatched , you never know, with a banshee the sky is the limit, mark my words you'll want porting in the future, just make sure its from a reputibale guy!

You can take the spring right out of the thumb throttle housing, I did and havn't found a disadvantage yet. As for the shifting, there are mods that can be done to the gears themselves with removeing some of the dogs and such, but if splitting the cases is not in your future then star mod like the other members suggested.

You have to remember the T6 claimed hp gains are on a stock banshee, when other mods are introduced it drastically changes the outcom, you also have to remember toomey put all there R&D into a couple of pipes for yamaha and they've been doing it a while, but when you talk to the people that have purchased them they'll tell you that they do not respond well to most upgrades or porting. I have'nt ridin a shee w/t6's but I've ridin a shee w/t5's with near same mods as mine and I find it feels very much the same as the fatty's on my banshee, very peakey it seems to amplifie the power band introduction with lots of power throughout, and I've ridin my buddies shee (with the exact same mods) w/PTR high revs, and I find them very smooth alot like the stock pipes with more power delivery. Personal preferance- I love my fatty's I'm even gonna slightly modify them to fit my rz engine, and personally If you ask me ...if it aint broke don't fix it, I think for your application there is no drawback to the fatty's As far as the hush kit goes I don't know what kind of hp loss there is?

It dose say "1998 Paul Turner banshee", I was also unaware of this option ellison? I think the dealer's been hiding something.

I've had troubles with the carbs sticken and the idle clibing, it would also backfire befor it warmed up, when its dry no probs?

who cares...buy a banshee and be untouch by both worries be gone

I've heard the TZ bearings are the better choice for the banshee bottom end, how do I go about ordering these? year, model, etc.??

thats funny!

so true its not even funny

wurd!!

those T-7 bars don't look half bad!, I dought they'd come apart mid air there are manufactuing standards, I'd try em

make sure the center is'nt hung up, that happened to me but I had no lever, you may also have to just adjust it?

I like my bars high ( being 6'1'') and I run a +1 1/2 stem w/atv high bend renthal fatbars and the adapters and didn't have to lengthen anything. I also recently came across some acerebis bars that are pretty high and dobble adjustable, you may wanna check them out, there 7/8

looks like a broken piston ring to me....I just went through this with my own engine yesterday, looks like it met the same fate Usually with a rod bearing gone the piston will hit the head and make a hell of a racket! maybee when it was honed the edges of the port were'nt chamfered?

I know how the theroy goes, I'm supprised no one on this forum has done the procedure. The Yamaha service manual dose not tell me a damn thing, I think once I get the crank out and to the shop it will probably be a peice of cake. I'll post pics of the whole thing when I get into it.

I dunno man, your sure they're the right application?

I don't think you'd feel .010 runout But that deffinatly the super precise way

My buddy I ride with has one and I think its GREAT!!, on long rides we can track our milage so we know when to stop for fuel, not to mention to speedo! It's pretty easy to hook up to, the maget for the trigger simpley repaces oe of you brake rotor bolts and the instructions are easy to understand!, if you ride trails or any distance I deffinatley recomend it.

OK this might be a stretch but has anyone done their own truing and welding on their crankshaft?, I work at an engine machine shop and I'm sure we have the eqiupment. Can anyone walk me through it or maybee tell me if there are things to watch for when pressing it apart or together, or bearings , or anyting I should be aware of? Any help would be great. Thanx

deffinatley go with an "ATV X-ring" chain, there beefyer than the street bike ones, and just use the inexpensive sprokets/gears from rockymountian atv until you get you gearing diled in the way you want to keep it, then spend the money on some tri-moly, or sidewinder or whatever.

a big bar and an extra pair of hand always works for me, depending on were and how bad its tweeked you may have to cut and reweld some of the gussets. But deffinatly keep the tourches away from yur frame just like dawarriorman was sayin!!

do an image search on google, I saw someone shorten theirs on a plate steel jig, once the material was removed the jig slid the 2 halfs closer together keeping it square.

thats some good stuff thanks for the link