Shee-Male

Well last I checked cheetah cub cyls were around 900$ and where is the powere valve??, oh ya NOT THERE, and the ports on the cubs are bigger and work at a higher rpm band which is not what I'm after, the power valve cyls make good low end power and awsome top and now that Ive spent 20 buks on reeds I still have 880$ for carbs, shocks, and porting! maybee more depending on the deals I may find on ebay!! I think the conversion will go smoothley and I'll keep you all updated, esp. loboboy who loves talking smak, we'll see how long it takes to do!

spend the same on cub cyl's are you silly??, I am a machinist the labor is my own, or FREE if you will, gettin some cages off ebay for around 5.00 ea., so I still don't see the cost benifit on the cubs, besides I'm not building a dragster, and I'm not after peak hp, like bluebanshee said it makes power smooth from the bottom up, its not how much power it makes but how it makes it! I will keep you updated, I'm gonna try the conversion on my old banshee jugs first befor messin with the RZ, and wait tell you see the craftsmanship I think you will likey! Coulden't find the pics you think you could post them again or email 'em to my?, that would be champ!!!

On my buddies 03 shee we just changed the head gasket after it blew, the head and the top of the jugs were lapped for flatness, put the bike back together with a Yamaha gasket and for some reason the right cyl. smokes alot, dosen't have any pressure, the pipe is cold, fuel comes out of the silencer, and the engine starts to rev up, I think from the excess feul being gathered by the left cyl. through the balance tube. We changed the plugs and no dif., we switched wires & no dif., we took the right carb of my running shee (same fuel, mix, size, jetting) & no dif., we changed reed cages and still no differance, so WTF? The bike has spark, compression (havn't done a test but can feel it through the plug hole, doin test shortly) and obviosly fuel, and I don't know whats left? Anybody have a prob. like this b4??

I work as a machinist in an engine machine shop so the labor would be my own, now that I know its a cr125 reed cage I can map out the procedure. I was curious because it seems to be a common upgrade on the RZ350's which is the powerplant I'm swapin in the shee this winter, the spec 2 guys have lots of good things to say abuot the conversion just wanted to see if anone around here had it done. Thanks for the info, I'll look for the pics. Thanx

I'm interested in this "large reed" conversion, is this a reed that is readily available like a dirt bike reed or something?, do the jugs have to be modified? Better yet dose anyone have pics? any info would be great!

"stroke it"

take the carbs apart again 1 at a time, check your reeds, then carefully reassemble eveything keeping it extra clean , set your pilot screws @ 1 1/2 turns and tune from there. Start from the begining and be patient, and don't let your little sister help. Oooh ya...make sure the damb choke tube between the 2 carbs is connected!

Klotz dose smell nice....but I run bellray SI-7 @ 32:1, the low smoke formula leaves next to nothin for deposits...I've had great luk with it, used to run motul 800 but to pricey.

deffinatley a head gasket! get a new one and replace it, just went through all this couple days ago with my buddies shee, just make sure the surfaces are perfectly flat befor reassembaley any machine shop should be able to "lap" them on a plate to make sure.

make sure the damb choke tube is attached between the carbs!

do a dyno run before and after....You tell us!

the old sleeves have to be bored out, the new sleeves are acctually larger O.D. then the stockers, only after machining can the new sleeves be installed.

make sure that damb choke tube is connected!

if you have to bore/hone you engine, it dosn't mean you have to mill your cyl. head, the replacement piston dome is corrected by the factory so the squish stays the same. Also remember if you have a 350cc and you bore it .040, it dosn't make it a 390cc. Taking stock cyl's to the max on a first rebuils is just stupid, you're simply ruining a good set of jugs!

the new irridium plugs (BR8IEX) work kick ass and I'm on year 2 with the same set, absolutley awsome throttle response!

lightened flywheel, deffinatley reeds, ajustable timing plate, larger carbs, 14-15 tooth sprockets, and good tires with proper psi!, Other than that, tune, tune, tune!

you can use the 55's they just wont be any brighter

you can just unplug the tors box above the left cyl. no need to get the kit, and ya check the choke tube, that got me once

a propane tourch also works well for this, but like loco said BE CAREFUL, if it gets to lean it will melt the piston!

just go sintered, the tusk brand is fine...enjoy!

check the slides, i had one of the keyways that hold the slide from turning wigglle out and the slide turned at full trottle and got hung up!

do you mean 50 as in 1/2 a mm (=.020) or .050?, remember the pistons and engine are metric and the box will be labled in mm.

check weiscos site, or your spec sheet that came with the pistons, you should be about 3-4 thou. piston slap usually rattles for a bit then goes away after warm up, If its a "pop" its prooly not piston slap.

how do you mean smooth, did you run regular car anti-freeze?

Where abouts are you in Canada? In ontario there is a guy Willy who dose alot of that stuff , he was 11 time world champ on rz's back in the 80's, theres also another guy by the name gord bush, from what ive learned doin my reserch around here these guys are the best, they know rz's!