Handyman

Haulers or sand stars are both great tires to choose. It's all personal preference though. Also depends on the type of riding you do, like sharp turns(sand stars) or straight like runs with long sweeping turn(haulers) can't go wrong with either tires though

I'd go but that would cost me a lot of money which i don't have. Take lots of pics for me though

If I can find a swingarm witha round carrier would be great but it's not too important. I found the boots on cascadeinnovation.net the other day.

Your jetting is off and you're way rich on the main jet. down size the main to a 145-150 and the pilot to a 42 clip in 3rd position and the air scrfew out to 1-1.5 turns out. What's your elevation?? That would help too

Mods are similar to my '99. For my 26mm carbs on my 99 I run a 27.5 pilot and a 310 main for 200ft above sea level and a 340 main for 4500ft above sea level. You might want to try to range anywhere from a 310-140 main and see what happens for your 28mm carbs. If you swithc back to the 34's I'd jet it at 145 mian and a 42-45 pilot with the clip in the 3rd or 4th position and I'd adjust the air screws a little with each jet change to see where it runs the best at.

it doesn't have the power valves installed....the cylinders are a P.V. but it have P.V. block off plates I said the same thing when I first saw it.....then I looked closer. If I had $4500 I'd be all over it. I emailed the guy and suggested that he add that it's a powervalve motor with P.V. ports blocked off.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...1QQcmdZViewItem

Fully assembled cub motor http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANS...1QQcmdZViewItem

exhaust, port and polish, bigger stroke, bigger bore...the list can go on and on. I'm sure you will have ore than enough suggestions....welcome to the addiction

that's like saying a 4cyl is better than a v-8......bigger=faster.......You're right you should slap him across the face.

Too big of jets will cause a bog on top, been there done that. I have 35mm carbs and run 142mains and 45 pilots and that's for 4500 ft above sea level for my 421cc cheetah powervalve motor. I think you were jetted too lean so yeah your assumtion was right you were way lean. From what I can tell(assuming you are on a mostly stock motor) you had too big of carbs not feeding enough fuel and then you down sized to smaller carbs and went way too rich on jetting. I may be way off on my assumtions on this so can you post a list of your engine/exhuast mods so we can try to help you better??

PM= Personal Message so only the person you're sending the message to is the only one that can read it.....kinda like email. To Pm someone find their name and scroll down and on the left side of the screen you'll see SEND MESSAGE. Hi that button, type the message and then send it. it's really.......I thought everyone knew what it was.

Kaotik1 is an awesome guy to deal with.. He was easy to contact and always answered emails within a couple hours after i sent them.. His quality of work is awesome too,. In fact I'm getting more parts ready to send to him to powdercoat for me.

Ah I know where you're at... I'm just south of Fresno and about 1.5 hours north of Bakersfield up I-5. I got the cheeath put back together but I had to buy shock for my wife's mustang. They took a shit on us going down to Disneyland a couple weeks ago, the drive and ride quality was shitty as well and we had a long drive back with it being like that.

You're correct. The Cheetah uses CR250 reed set up and a cheetah specific head.

cub and powervalve are 68mm bores.....a 72mm bore might be a super cub

There's a cheetah cub and a cheetah powervalve. Cheetah cubs are the same bore as the power valve and same peak HP but the cubs uses regular banshee reed set up and regular head, I could be wrong tough. a powervalve has the power valves which helps in low end torque. the faster you go and the more exhaust pressure in the cylinder the the more the powervalves will open up. the powervalves also use a special head just for the powervalve motor. The powervalve also uses a CR250 reed set up since it needs more air than a cub. the powervalve is also more expensive that's why you see ,more cubs than P.V.'s it's all personal preference though.

Speedfreak.....I have a cheetah P.V. and have had no overheating probs. the cases are not trenched since it's a 4mil, 7mil or bigger requires trenching from what I understand. Right now I'm running 142 mains, 45 pilots, clip in 3rd position at that's set up for 4500 ft above sea level. right now I'm at 200 ft above sea level and it runs fine. over heating is either a cooling problem or a lean jetting issue. When i broke in the motor i was running rich at 160 main and a 48 pilot. if you have any questions you can pm me or just post in this thread Bansheeseat$$ is pretty knowledgeable when it comes to cubs and powervalves

If my cheetah didn't have the a-arms off I might just meet up with you...2.5 hours from Pismo....where you located?? In the central valley??

I know this is a long shot but here it is. I have a Rolex perpetual dateadjust watch i got from my dad as a christmas present. I looked on line and it's worth $4000 in the stores. I wore it once and almost got jumped because of it. I have a fossil watch that suits me just fine. I would sell it on ebay but I don't want to pay the 10% of the selling price($300-$400) again. I listed it and I got a few people watching it but no one bought it. I'm willing to trade anyone who would like a rolex and not have to shell out any cash. I'd be willing to trade for just about anything. Here's what I'd trde for. '98 or newer rolling a-arm chassis modded motor( stock, cub, cheetah P.V.) 98 or newer non running shee 2000 or newer CR250 I haven't worn this watch since that night I think I was almost killed for it. I don;'t need that kind of attention especially when I'm with my wife. I'm open to any offers if there is any of equal or lesser value.

I forgot to mention that I don't need any of this stuff right away..except maybe the a-arms...

ok people I need some help. I'm hunting for some +2+1 a-arms for my banshees and don't know the good quality brands out there that don't cost an arm and a leg. I'm looking for some that I can Powedercoat if needed. Also looking for a +4 round house carrier swinger for my '99 since it's got a stock swinger. My wife rides the '99 and is afraid of the front end coming up on her when she takes off again don't know the good quality brands out there. I'll be more than happy top trade the stock a-arms with some cash and the swinger with some cash if needed. Also need toknow where I can find the rubber grease boots that go over the ball joints on the a'arms since I found a couple of mine have cracks i them. The ball joints are fine and i took the a-arms off to make sure of that. I also wanting to buy new rims for my '99 since I don't like the gold rims on it. What is everyone running as far as size. When not in sand the Shee is ridden on the MX track and I do jump it. Don't know what size and weight rim is good to use, thanks in advance

I have yet to split the cases but so far I've done everything that I needed to do I've done myself.

DO NOT BUY A TORS SET UP. TORS is pain in the ass and is usually the root of all problems on the banshee. TORS(Throttle Over Ride System) Stay away from this....Do a search on here and you will find all the info you need to know....especially why all banshee owners get rid of theirs as soon as they can.

You're very correct. every engine is different. Just to show that here's an example....you run a 168/55 with 3 turns out on the screw and I run a 142(should be a 150) with a 45 pilot with 1.5 turns on the screw. and this is for the same mountain. Bansheeseat$$ will probably have different jetting setting if he had the same motor as you or I. I'm not going to mention the beast of a motor he has in his '06 because that's in a whole other ballpark.