Handyman

Cut the wires at the throttle that go to the TORS system. Once the wires are cut make sure the electrical connectors are all disconnected from the box. Once that's done the thing should run. The box is on the left side of the frame under the gas tank.

I have to agree with everyone else....the CRF450 is the better of the 2. I own a CR250 and have ridden the CRF450 and the power is awesome. If it was me spending the money....I'd go for the CRF450

habe you tried adjusting your idle screws?? I'm having the same problem so when you find the problem let me know

Hey people I'm helping a buddy of mine try to sell his 2002 CR125. Due to being accepted to the Blue Angels (for the second time) and having to move he has to sell his bike. This bike is in pristine condition. After every ride it was washed, waxed and detailed. I swear he would take it apart to clean the damn thing. The rubber around the control levers and throttle are not torn or ripped, and they are still black and shiny like they were new. From 5 feet away it looks brand new. The front and rear tires are brand new, they have one ride on them. He installed a billet aluminum airbox other than that the bike is stock. The bike has been laid down once in the 2 years he's had it, he's the original owner. From the crash there is a scratch on the front fender, not visible in the picture. The crash was a low speed crash, he hit a rock he didn't see. He almost saved it but lost his balance and it fell on him. The frame was looked at by the dealership and they said it was perfectly straight. Mechanically the bike is in better that excellent condition. I have it at my house and I start it every week to keep it from gumming up in the carb and it starts on the 2nd kick cold and starts on the 1st kick warm. He is currently on a 6 month deployment and his wife and I are trying to sell it and in need of getting rid of this thing pretty badly. Unfortunatly he can't ship it due to financial reasons and is a local pick up only. If you are interested and buy it his wife and I will be willing to meet halfway to deliver at a reasonable distance. We are located just outside Fresno, Ca. He is asking $3100. Kelly blue book listed it at $2975. I don't think they are asking too much for the bike, If you saw it you would think the same thing. Please pass the word around if you know anyone looking please let them know. I will have pics once I get them off my other computer. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

If I saw that I wouldn't be able to resist either.

It's not a removal kit. The kit consists of 2 parts. 1-the throttle cable 2- the idle kit. Removing te TORS system is easy. Take the old carb caps off(which the TORS housings are attached to) disconnect the electrical connector under the tank, and cut teh wires coming from teh the throttle housing. Motion pro makes the kit. It tok me about an hour to remove the TORS system and install the idle kit and new throttle and I didn't know what the fuck I was doing. The instructions that come with the klit are easy to follow. If you have any mechanical skills it should be easy.

Ok people I have a problem that will stump a few of you. I just removed the entire TORS System from the banshee ans installed the the after market idle kit from Motion Pro. I cleaned out the carbs, K&N filter pods, fresh gas with a 32:1 mix with 91 octane, sync'ed the carbs, adjusted all the needles/valves/jets just like they were before I tore the carbs apart to clean them. The bike runs like a champ at half choke from a cold and hot start. Once I push in the choke it will die within 5 seconds. No matter how fast I'm going, no matter what position the throttle is in, it will die. If I sit there at idle with half choke it has a nice clean crisp throttle response but once I push in the choke it will die. If I try to give it a little gas to keep it from dying it will bog down and die anyways. When at half choke and riding it is fine until about middle of 3rd gear and full throttle it sounds like it's bogging down. Once the choke goes in it dies. The jetting is fine because it ran perfectly 3 months ago with the same jetting. it was jetting locally so it's jetted for the right elevation. The choke tube is connected and has a good seal I have run out of ideas as to try to fix the problem. I have already tried adjusting the pilot air screws while it's running but after about 10 minutes my leg gets tired from kicking it to start it back up. If any of you banshee gods have any info that might help it would be greatly appreciated, and I do mean GREATLY appreciated. I have had the bike for 2 weeks and have yet to take it out to a track and ride it. I have ridden it up and down my street to see if anything I did fixed it. I really would like to see how this handles on a track and get it airborn.

I have heard the TORS has been a leading fator in shee bogging down right off idle. Why this is happens is unknown. It is electrical so it will start to go bad the older the bike gets and moisture also affects it. What does the TORS do?? The TORS system has a sensor in the housings on top of both carbs and a sensor in the throttle housing. There is a box on the left side of the frame under the tank. The box is also electrically connected to the ignition. When the box senses that either slide in the carbs does not match the throttle postion the box will send a signal to the ignition and kill the ignition keeping the motor from blowing. For example. Say you are hauling ass and you let off the throttle all the way and the left slide is stuck wide open and the right slide closes. The box will sense the right slide and throttle position match but the left slide is stuck wide open and the engine is still revving. The box will send a signal to the ignition and cut the spark to the spark plugs and kill the engine. I hope this helps. I tried to describe it as simple as I could as to my understaning of the way it works. If any info is wrong or not fully correct please correct. me.

TORS: Cut the wires from the throttle housing and disconnect the electrical connection that is under the tank on the left side of the frame. If you can't find it follow the TORS wiring harness from the carbs and you will find the connection. YOU HAVE TO DISCONNECT this connector your shee won't run past idle. I just got done with eliminating the TORS on mine. Motion pro has a kit that has a idle kit and new carb caps and throttle cable. YOu have to completely remove the TORS housing and throttle cable...Throttle response is a hell of a lot better. Parking brake: Clip the wires or remoe the entire thing

Yeah I had t get ready for work so I didn't have much time to mess with it. I think it's the gas. I have a 20:1 in 2 gal of gas. It seems like it's not getting enough gas. I have to be almost at full throttle and feather the clutch a little ten dump it to get going. Once a load has been put on the engine it gets hot real quick and I can smell it.

Hey people remember me. I had a problem with my banshee bogging from an idle. Well after screwing with it all weekend I decided to take it back to the guy I bought it from so he can either fix it or pay to get it fixed. Well here's what happened, and yes it may be lengthy. 3 years ago when he was having similar problems he took it to the shop and the guy he talked to had a banshee as well and told him his problem sounded like a TORS problem. After having the bike for a day the guy called and told him that his TORS was acting up and told him to cut the wires to the TORS at the throttle housing and to disconnect the electrical connector on the left side of the frame. Worked fine after that. Well 3 months ago he went to Glamis and bent the handle bars. After replacing the handle bars and putting it all back together his buddy asked why the electrical connector was disconnected. Not remembering why it was disconnected he connected it back together and never started it again. I was the first to start it after the new bars went on. His wife pointed out to him that the connector was connected(while the bike is running) and he disconnected it and the RPMs shot sky high. Bike now runs like it's got NOS in the tank. Yes the TORS is completely disabled, if you're wondering. I still have to fine tune it and figure out why it wants to bog when I put it in gear, I think it may be the premix. Thanks everyone for trying to help me find the problem.

Carbs are synced and the air screws are are out 2 turns as per book specs.

20:1 is too rich?? I did a 20:1 mix in 2gal. Can the reed valves be causing the problem?? I never thought of that until a buddy of mine told me to check those. It originally had a 32:1 mix in it and after I changed the mix as per manufacture specs to 20:1.

Yeah the tube was there. I always made sure it was there. I pulled the plugs and they were black as hell. put new plugs in after I gapped them and I'm running a 20:1 mix with 91 octane. I pulled the carbs off and cleaned the shit out of them now each carb has been cleaned 3 times each. I put the carbs back on and she fired on the 3rd kick with choke applied at first detent. I am now wondering if the choke has something to do with it. I did find a O-ring on the fuel valve that was scrapped on something and has a small flat spot. I switched it to the other carb and doesn't seem to be causing any probs but I will still get one tomorow if I can. The carbs are syncronized. The TORS are matched, I wonder if I need to get a new fuel valve sinc ethe book says that any damage to the o-ring or fuel valve will cause it to run rich and it almost seems like it's running rich. whe nI hit the throttle real quick it wants to bog down but if I ease on it it will rev up until about 1/8 throttle and then bogs down again. I am running out of ideas and need some serious help on this thing. HELP ME PLEASE.

Pulled both carbs and here are the jet sizes Main: 290 Pilot: 25

I have no idea....I pulled the left carb because it sounds like the bike is choking itself out in the left carb when I give it gas. I cleaned it just like I did the right and now the b**ch won't start. It started after I put the left carb on and it ran but it slowly died and now it won't start. I'm about to pull both carbs and clean them AGAIN and match all the jets and maybe by the grace of god the problem goes away. I will let you know the size of the jets. I'm starting to regret buying the damn thing. If I don't get it fixed by next weekend it's going to the shop.

Yeah I changed the gas and pulled the petcock and found the reserve filter had a hole in, just big enough to let dirt and crap through. The Bike ran a hell of a lot better but it still bogs. Not usre if the pilot needles are not adjusted right. When I pulled the main and pilot jets out I found a 2.8 and a 25 size jets. Can't tell you which number was on which jet.

The bike needs to be choked at teh first detent and after about 3 kicks it starts. The needles and stuff I believe are all stock. He had to do to minor adjustments with the carbs when he put the exaust and filters on but I nelieve they all stock. The old owner on is his way over to Iraq with the Navy on an Aircraft carrier so trying to fiqure out what he did takes time with the email. Elevation is 300-400 feet above sea level. He emailed me and said that he thinks the gas is really dirt and to change it all out and clean the carbs. He did this the last time and it cured the problem and he thinks there is residual dirt floating around. He got gas from a gas station where a dozen or so cars broke down due to extremely dirty gas.

Hey people, I'm new to the site and have done a search on my problem I have on my 99 Banshee. I just bought my banshee yesterday with the problem it has. Here are the mods(that I know of): Pro Circuit full exaust, K&N Filters with no air box, Here is the problem. it starts within 5 kicks(on first start of the day) and idles perfectly, no spitting/sputtering or nothing but when I try to accelerate(in neutral) it bogs down and tried to die. I have isolated the problem to the right carb. I ran it for about an hour and the longer it roan the better it sounded and I was able to apply a little more throttle. If I ease on the throttle the revs come up until about 1/4-1/2 throttle and then it bogs down. If I try to go from 0-full throttle it will bog down. The left carb sounds fine. When I put my hand behind the exaust the right seems to be weaker than the left. I have known the bike with the current set up and mods for a while and it ran like a champ. The bike has been ran once in the past 8 months. I took the right carb apart and claned it the best I could. I was unable to get the float off because I couldn't figure out how to remove the float pin and I was unable to get to the needle under it. I have read the book and it keeps repeating something about the Pilot Needle/Pilot valve. I was at the track the last time the bike was ridden and there was no problems and since then it hasn't been ridden. This is the second time that this has happened and the guy everything apart and cleaned and put everything back together and he can't tell me what he did to fix it. Any help from any of you would be greatly appreciated since my room mate says his 01 660 will eat my banshee alive so yeah I'm itching to prove him wrong. Please help me out