2003LimitedBanshee

Off of the back of the big aluminum looking clunker TORS units on top of the carb. This will be right above the carb caps, you'll know it when you see it... there should be about a 6" or maybe 8" section of wires, usually covered by a black sheath, with a connector that fits the part you have hanging down (can't remember if the carb end of wire is the male or female connection. Anyway, find that section of wire, connect it to the section you have hanging down, and in theory as long as they haven't partially disconnected anything else you should be good to go.

It does sound like some kind of electrical problem. Heat related also... since as it heats up, it breaks down and you lose spark(guess?). Once it sits, cools down your good again. I would still tend to think coil, or stator, but I'll keep thinking.

Yep, that's a TORS connector. If you haven't removed the TORS, you will need to reconnect it.

Save the sticker price, put the money into mods on the Banshee, and really embarass them.

On your 99 I assume you're running Toomey's, from your screen name? It seems that many people with SST's run a sizeably smaller main, than most with Toomey's. You can see what I'm running in my sig. If it has been improving as you come down, and the plugs look good, that's hard to argue with? You also have to remember that every bike is probably going to be a little bit different. It sounds like your checking everything you should keep an eye on and it's running better, I can't argue that.

I'd say draw... suzuki did say he moved the needle up one, but then he said towards the blunt end. So I think he meant that he moved the clip. I'd say both right, just different interpretation. But, suzuki, if you moved the clip up (needle down) as I suspect, you would have leaned the needle/mid circuit out. If that cleaned it out and does not bog anymore, I'd say you did the right thing, but do check your plugs. It does sound like you have a lot of turns on your air screws though...?

Since it sounds like it will wind out fine, I am wondering if you have a needle setting issue. Do you know, what position you have the needle clip currently?

You'll get a lot more hits if you post somethng in the Jetting and Exhaust forums, but since you asked... It depends on what you plan on doing down the road. According to Toomey, and general opinion seems to support this. The T6's are really good if you don't plan on porting etc. down the road. I can't speak from personal experience but the SST's supposedly take to porting better. In this class of pipe, I would tend to lean towards T5's if you are looking to port etc., but I may be biased.

I would have to agree, 280 sounds lean. Have you checked the plugs to see if they are ghost white. I would jump to a 290, 300 or maybe even a 310. You have to remember that you can get a lean bog as well. The fact that it falls flat and pops, sounds like a lean condition. So I would jump up, you usually don't get many ooops's if it is lean popping.

Ditto, plus did you allow any break-in on the new clutch discs before put some abuse on it. If not, it's possible you could have put hot spots in it already, in which case that clutch may be done.

Sorry, but 15/41 is not a tight trails gearing, 13/41 (or 13/44 even better) is. If he is riding tighter trails, who cares about top speed potential, you want lower gearing so you can get to the powerband quicker. It takes so long for it too start going fast cuz you're pulling too tall a gear. Bigger in the front/smaller in the back more top speed (higher gearing), Smaller in the front/bigger in the back more acceleration (lower gearing).

WOW, if you have a stealership locally I might check into that route. I picked up a set of pilots a while back from my local Yamaha shop for $7 total (2). Looks like those are $7 a piece, plus some small shipping I'm sure. I've found at least my local shop is right on target with everyone else when it comes to the smaller parts, for the most part.

I haven't had any problems running the Uni (Toomey) 2:1 setup. Riding over rutted up sand or jumping at the dunes, and no problems at all. Plus I don't have that spooky few grains of sand in the intake track like I got when I was running the stock setup. Seems to flow very good too, they claim better than K&N, but I run K&N on all my cars (can't seem to go wrong).

Were you running +5 with the T5's without porting. I haven't had any port work done... YET. But I've got a ricky stator timing plate that should be here by Thursday. Trying to figure out if I will be making a difference advancing the timing now. Even if not, I can always set at 0 degrees until I get the porting done.

I can't really speak to whether or not there is a better location to place the overflow bottle. I do know it does recirculate, as I had to add a little to the bottle after some extended dune riding (BUT, the radiator was topped full). As for a mount, Modquad makes a bracket that will bolt in where the rear bolts for the airbox used to be. Puts the coolant bottle top right under the seat like stock. Like twenty bucks minus discount from Modquad, or I got mine through Alba Action Sports outta so cal, for about 18 and change. Seems to work just fine.

Well I have access to a metal lathe, but being this would be my first attempt, I could check into getting it lightened, and then check out what was removed, for down the road. Thanks for the input.

Okay so sounds like I shouldn't be hurting anything to go ahead and pop for the timing plate at this point. A question on lightening the flywheel. I would assume you would do this for the same reason as in automotive applications, better throttle response? Also does anyone know exactly what is involved, or how it is done. I have a pretty big arsenal of tools at my disposal and a better than average mechanical aptitude (in my opinion). Don't know if this is something the do-it-yourselfer can handle, or if it takes specialized tools? Is it being machined, to lighten or what? Thanks!

I don't know much about the 34mm Mikunis, but if they are anything like the stockers, the first two "nipples" do sound like choke crossovers. If that's the case and you don't block those off you will have a pretty big air leak going straight in. I'm assuming the carb you have mounted has some sort of choke pull, or do the 34mm not have that, just wondering if maybe you actually want the other carb installed on the bike if it has the choke pull, otherwise you wouldn't have any choke. The third nipple on the bowl is an overflow, route it out the back, the stock ones dump in between the case and the swinger.

1azshee - if you have just been idling along, or only partial throttle, I would not see it as uncommon to have the plugs darken up, even to somewhat black. I have putted around at part throttle for 1/4 to 1/2 mile, pulled the plugs and had them look dark, put in one full throttle blast through all six gears and the color will be spot on. I prefer reading the color off of the electrode, but it seems that many on the HQ prefer brand new plugs and reading the ring on the porcelain that will be exposed during a chop. You should definitely check/adjust your jetting for temp swings like you are describing. Don't get me wrong, loco has a ton of posts, been around for quite a while and is one of the guys to talk to about building all sorts of cool shit. It's just hard to say because if you have been idling or putting around, and they are old plugs, I wouldn't be surprised to see them dark. I will say this, if you move even just one size either up or down it should give you an indication. If down decreases your flat spot, your fat, or vise versa. Good luck

I would actually try going up first before going down. I am currently running 330's with the mods in my signature. No obviously you are probably much warmer in AZ, what is the temp exactly? But when I originally started doing some mods, specifically after the pipes. I rode the first time with 280's and luckily didn't stick it. The power felt flat probably similar to what you described. The key thing to keep in mind is that you can live with be rich and then tune down until its right. But if you lean it out, you may only get one shot. The old standby is to go big, if it bogs (won't clean out in the top gears) go down until it cleans out. This should get you real close, that is when I would start chopping.

What kind of pipes are you running? What is your elevation, air temp? When you say you've done a filter, have you totally removed the airbox, still have the box w/no lid, full lid no snorkel, or totally stock box w/lid and snorkel? All of these are factors that will affect getting the jetting spot on. Once we know this we can give you a better idea.

The black oil on the plug threads is fairly common. Agree too much pilot... 27.5 will most likely fit your bill fine . With the box and lid I would guess you at 300 or 310, since you are fairly warm, but also to play it safe with the Timing advance. Without the lid I would bet on about one size up from w/lid.

What do you think about doing the timing plate now though? Wait until I've done the porting and head, or do it now. How is rocketboy for power numbers after the porting... more trail/woods or dune setup? I will be riding 99.9% exclusively dunes.

I can't speak for the Rockets or others, but I can tell, like most everyone else, I love my T5's. They definitely have an awesome distinctive sound. Plus they seem to make really good power. Supposedly, stay away from the T6's if you plan on porting or other more significant mods down the road.

I would have to agree with a lot of the above about HID's. Another thing to consider is that HID's, while they use less power once they are fired, require a lot of juice for the initial firing. And as mentioned if it falls below that they will simply shut down. I can't speak for the ease or difficulty of switching the Banshee system to DC, so no help there. I would, and have opted for PIAA lighting systems on my cars, banshee etc. I prefer the PIAA's w/ Xtreme white bulbs. Everything I have runs these bulbs and they put out light somewhat comparable to HID, unless of course it's parked next to something with True HID. Bottom line, for me, the PIAA setup has provided more than enough light.