2003LimitedBanshee

I am trying to figure out if I should go with a timing plate now (looking at the Ricky Stator), or if I would be best served to wait a little longer. I'm trying to finish my '63 Nova, so I don't really feel like I should drop $300 on a head/domes quite yet, and not going to have the porting done until this winter, but thought I might drop the $45-50 for the timing plate. Would I really be improving my setup, or should I wait until after the head and porting. Also, was considering having Alba Racing out of So Cal. do the porting, anyone heard/have good or bad? Thanks!

Just like everyone else has said you just need a good SAE rated 10W30 motor oil. Picked your brand of preference, everyone will usually have a brand they prefer, but it may or may not make a difference, you be the judge. I personally always go with Havoline. I have started opting for synthetic 10W30 however. I haven't noticed any clutch slippage over nonsynthetic. It seems to me that the synthetics hold up to the heat a little better. Had a friend who changed his oil after every trip out to the dunes, and he cooked second gear (yes, it had plenty of oil, not a low oil issue) in his bike running nonsynthetic. So I made the switch, don't know if I would have had any problems, but switched anyway. Synthetics are usually up to $2+ over the nonsynthetics per quart. But your talking $4 more on an oil change, wasn't a big enough deal for me not to switch.

I wouldn't think the Raptors should be much of a problem for you, but the 450's are damn fast. A buddy of mine has a 450 with a filter, jet kit, and he gutted the stock silencer. If he jumped me out of the hole I pretty much had no chance of getting around him. If you haven't already, definitely drop to a 13 tooth on the front, you'll hit the pipes that much quicker and you'll be amazed. Also, if you feel pretty confident at your shifting, speed shift it. I was dragging over at the Oregon dunes this weekend and my clutch stood up to 6-8 drags right after another without any noticeable fade; so I would doubt it would be the clutch getting overpowered, especially if it is not right out of the hole. But like others have said don't expect to cover those 450's until you start dumping some more serious money into the motor, I know I was somewhat surprised when I didn't hand my buddy his ass.

You might need to go up on your pilot. How cool are the cooler temps you are talking about. I noticed this last weekend when I was at the Oregon Dunes that I had to give my bike extensive warm up time, watching it for 5 plus minutes to make sure it didn't not die while warming up. It was probably 50-55 when I was starting it, however, once it was warmed up I didn't have to use the choke even after letting it sit for 15-20 minutes or more(?). I am currently going to up to a 27.5 pilot as it seemed like it may want that little bit more fuel early on, plus the power seemed a tiny bit flat off idle. You may try that, I will probably swap the new pilots in tomorrow night and can let you know, although I don't have as cool nightly temps now that I am back home.

A big part of this could be the air temp where you are? What temp is it when you are having this problem? It is pretty common to need some choke when starting from dead cold at temps at or below 70 degrees or so...

My T-5's are blued for about the first 4-5" just after the flange. I know that it is not from the oil on my hands after the install because I wore latex gloves when installing the pipes just to combat that problem, and wiped them down after just to make sure. If you look at most chrome pipes on cars, bikes, whatever they will almost all have some blueing. It's a pretty normal response of chrome from the heat. My guess would be that those that aren't blueing are running too rich. I've got mine spot on, and it definitely is not lean. After an hour plus of hard continuous riding this weekend I ran 6-8 full throttle drags against some people, back to back to back... If it was lean I would have stuck it for sure... It's normal in my opinion, plus it shows others you ride it, I will probably leave mine as a warning to others.

I would say you are definitely lean. Although you obviously aren't super lean, otherwise you wouldn't still be riding. You would have already stuck it or blown it. Currently I am running 330's @2000' elevation, low 80's, little to no humidity, no airbox, T5's, Boyesen reeds, stock pilot and Dynojet needle in the 4th clip. I can start it on the 2nd or 3rd kick at the most, with the choke. Once it is running and warmed up no idling issues. My guess is that you should probably be somewhere around the 300 range, maybe 310; you should end up lower than me due to the elevation. My guess is that it had the 270's in it because that is what Toomey says is "ideal" for elevations over 2500'. But everyone I've had contact with, including my bike, wanted more main than what Toomey said was "ideal". 300's should give you a pretty good starting point, then read the color, and see what you have.

I'm assuming you haven't since you didn't mention it, but I'll ask anyway. Have you done anything with reeds? Also I don't know how the K&N pods flow compared to the UNI 2:1 like Toomey offers with their kits now, but... I am running 330's @2000' elevation around 80 degrees with very little humidity. Plugs might be the prettiest brown I've ever seen. Stock pilots, Dynojet needle in the 3rd clip, but with Boyesen PowerReeds also. Somewhere in the 310-320 range should bring you in the ballpark.

The stock arm really isn't that hard to adjust, especially if you have a Clymer's manual; it covers it in enough detail for pretty much anyone. If I remember right all you should need is a 10mm wrench or ratchet and socket for the adjustment bolt and a 12mm (I believe) open end wrench for the jam nut. The key is making sure that you adjust each side equally, or your axle will not track exactly perpendicular to the swingarm. You will be essentially loosening the bolts, allowing the axle to move closer to the front of the bike, giving you more slack. Usually it seems like you have to bump the tire to make sure the axle moves forward to where the adjustment bolts are seated. Once you have it square and adjusted with the appropriate slack, tighten the jam nuts and ride away. I believe the stock chain slack tolerance is between .75" and 1.25" (sorry don't have the Clymer's at hand). Also make sure to check the slack in several location, as you will almost certainly have some areas tighter than others.

Okay so it sounds like it is missing. Just like 2twin350s said, if it is missing there is a good chance you've sucked some dust/grit etc. through it at some point or another. Installing the choke tube should solve the hard starting condition. Then you just need to check to see what or how much damage has been done. Maybe you'll get lucky but I'm betting it may not be such good news. Good Luck!

This may sound stupid, but hear me out. The first thing that would come to my mind is if you still have the TORS installed, is the parking brake accidentally set. If so the TORS will not allow the engine to rev above, I believe, 2000 RPM or right around there. The second thing I would say if that is not the case is that it is probably just not warm yet. Even though it may be sitting idling, if you are not applying any throttle variation the bike is still going to want to bog right at first hit of the throttle. I have my jetting, and more importantly pilot and needle settings dialed in, and if I just let my bike idle for a minute, or two it will bog if you try to get into the throttle more than a little. Although, mine will usually clean out after two or less partial hits of the throttle.

Other pic....

It does look like it is installed. I can't be totally sure from the pictures you have here, but I think it is showing up there. The tube should start from the right side of the left-hand carb, directly opposite where the choke enters the body of the carb. It should run straight across to the left-hand side of the right side carb. Hopefully the arrows will give you at least a better clue as to where to look for the tube. I would also agree that you should probably clean the carbs thoroughly, as any little debris can cause a big problem.

I have to agree with locogato11283, it sounds like your chain may be too tight... That would cause the chain to ride harder on the lower chain roller. Plus when you get on the gas hard, the suspension compresses, tightening the chain further, and causing it to ride even harder on the bottom roller. ....??

It really is as simple as taking a pair of pliers and giving the "nipples" an easy snug. If you don't get the Vise Grips out, you shouldn't be able to overtighten the spark plugs with them installed in the head. Even with Vise Grips, I would bet on the threads on the nipple or plug giving out before I would worry about overtightening in the head. Just get the pliers and set aside about 10 seconds a plug and you should be set.

I wouldn't really expect it to be an ignition problem. I've had no problems with my ignition to date, so it would have to be more of a defective part situation. Which could happen. When you say the problem is at the lower rpm range at full throttle I assume you must hammering it to full throttle pretty quick? Otherwise I would think the revs would already be up by the time you got to full throttle. If it is at full throttle this will throw out my next idea, but I might try a needle adjustment. The reason I say this is because of the "popping" you described. I know this will sound dumb, but on one short ride down my road after the bike had warmed up for a minute or two I started to lean into the throttle a bit, and it gave me a small pop. I soon realized I was an idiot and forgot to turn the fuel on. ( I know call me stupid). Anyway the lean condition in my case was what caused the little pop, luckily no damage for my stupidity. So the pop makes me think it could be leaning out a little. If you aren't in fact at full throttle, you may be able to tune this away by raising the needle one position towards the pointed in. If you've got the space and clean area it will only take you a few minutes to make this adjustment and check it out. Let us know...

I would also think you may want to try going up a little on the main, mainly due to the timing advance. In theory the dome on the head should only change the need to run a mix of race gas, if at all, as everyone has said, depending on elevation. But several others that I have talked to liked a little more main after the timing advance.

Sounds like you most likely do have a stuck float. Take the carbs off and give them a really, really good cleaning. You also may want to disassemble the float and needle assembly, as tiny pieces of junk can get under the seat of the needle and keep the needle from shutting off the flow of fuel into the float bowl. Most likely that will solve your woes.

Yeah, try the jetting and exhaust for more response. But I would say you are most likely lean. As you decrease elevation you are going to want to jet up. Plus with your port job you would want to jet up also. Since you have it I would throw the 340's in and see how it responds. I run anywhere from 300-330, depending on the time of year (temp) and elevation (sea level to 4000'+), and I don't have any port work at this point. At 2000' only pipes/silencers, reeds and removing the airbox to run a UNI 2:1, I was lean with 300 mains. So try the 340's since you've got them, and go from there. Depending on the port job, it may still be lean, or may be fat, but a read on the plugs should give you a good idea at that point.

The factory spark plug gap is .028-.032". As long as you have not changed your compression ratio, the overbore on your cylinders shouldn't affect the spark plug gap. I'm trying to remember the metric equivalent, it's like 5-7mm or something, but I'm positive on the .028-.032" I usually run mine right in the middle of the range, at .030". Be sure and check the plugs out of the box, they may very well need adjustment.

I'm going to have to agree with PassionRe. It sounds as though you have an air leak somewhere between the carbs and the engine. Typically, if the bike is running lean it will idle up and take longer to idle down if you rev it a little while stopped (or when pulling in the clutch). You can check to see if you have an air leak around the intake boots, or the reeds by spraying carb cleaner. It's nice because it won't leave much if any residue, and you'll be able to tell if you have a leak. When you hit the leak, you will notice a definite bog, if it doesn't kill it, depending on how bad of a leak you have. All the troubles you've had are why I like doing my own work... you always know what has and hasn't been done. Good Luck

To my knowledge, running a straight race fuel shouldn't require a different mix ratio. I also don't know that a jetting change would be necessary due to changing to race fuel. The whole point of running a race gas is to avoid detonation, due to increase cylinder pressure (ie. heat). Know if you've made other mods and are going to be switching to race gas as a result, and haven't jetted for the mods yet, then definitely. But if you've jetted for your mods and are simply changing fuels, I don't imagine a jetting change is in order. But haven't done exact scenario myself...

Agreed... more info needed to really help you out. It sounds like you may be a little rich on the bottom end. Depending on how bad, you may be able to clean it up by dropping your needle, moving the clip closer to the blunt end. This will help to lean out the rich condition is seems you may be having. It's still kind of hard to make a guess though, because you can have both a lean or rich "bog". You can get an idea if you are lean by pulling the choke part way out, at part throttle. If you are lean, pulling the choke part way out should clean it up. One thing to keep in mind if you have jetted up, is that needle adjustments will most likely be necessary to clean up the midrange, once you have the top end set. This is because the bike will start to run on the main at partial throttle. So, if you've increased your main jet, you will flow more fuel even at part throttle if you don't make a needle adjustment to compensate.

The only thing I was trying to point out was that there are other pipes out there that emphasize the midrange, and don't hit quite as hard on the top end. I actually liked mine stock for climbing old logging skids with birms in them, to my bike now with the T5's. But I love my T5's for the dunes. If you are riding tight, very technical trails, the T5's might be a little too on-off in my opinion. You really can't go wrong with the T5's, but if you do pretty much all trail riding, there might be a better pipe out there.

So... Is the bike stock, or have you done pipes, etc. etc.?? If it is stock are you at higher elevation? If so maybe you are rich on the jetting which could lead to the problem you are talking about? Let us know a little more about your bike and your location, and we can probably help you figure it out.