2003LimitedBanshee

I've heard both good and bad. I personally run them and have had no problems. They have more positions for adjustment and a longer taper which I feel helps for fine tuning. Some will say don't run them, some will say do...

to that! I always pack an extra masterlink too. Cheap insurance.

If you have a newer fuel injected car it will do this automatically, it's essentially computer controlled choke (truely a richened cold circuit). Since banshees are carbureted, they will not idle up and then idle down after a short warmup period automatically. The manual choke takes this role...

WOW, after following all the threads with this common theme. I would run a different set of pipes even if I gave up 5 HP. Sad to see stuff like this happening

I run Trick Race Fuel, Blue (116 octane) cut at 40% w/premium. Runs about $5.45 a gallon, or $4.85 by the 55 gal drum. Do you have any oil distributors in your area, heating oil etc. A local heating oil distributor in my area carries the Trick... another route to look into.

I would definitely consider dropping to a 13 tooth on the front. Also, I know this isn't the jetting forum, but... I would consider going bigger than what Toomey supplies. As I understand Glamis is below sea level, so you should think about it. If you still have the stock airbox, but have vented it, I would guess you in the range of 300, prolly 310 w/o snorkel, and maybe as high as 320 w/o the lid. If you ran the Toomey 2:1 filter I would guess you near to 330. Also, take a look at an adjustable timing plate, it will help out the bottom end, and give you crisper throttle response. Look at reeds down the road, and the list could go on and on, but that's a start.

Nope... I figured that would be the other indicator, and I am definitely not. Thanks!

Saw this on another post and didn't want to crap on his thread. But got me thinking. When the bike is warming up I typically get more smoke out of the right pipe. First time or two through the gears the right side will smoke. Once it's warmed up no smoke from either side. Hope I don't have a bad crank seal,does anyone??

You should be able to make around 50 without the drag port or inframes. Toomey shows a dyno run with their T6's making over 50 HP. Of course they don't point out whether that is at the crank or at the rear wheels. But still add some timing, ditch the airbox and jet it right and you should be at or above 50 before you port. (I know we're not talking pipes, but pick something other than T6's if you plan to port).

Will be heading to the Oregon Dunes, North Bend/Horsfall Hauser area Oct. 14,15,16. Anyone out that way around that time?

Dunes baby!

In all honesty I am not familiar with the terrain at Glamis, but my $.02 based on riding at the Oregon dunes. I would swap for the 13 tooth in a heartbeat (I did). You'll come out of the hole much faster. You do sacrifice some top end MPH of course. Are you dragging through all six gears? If so you may end up with some bikes coming around you on the top. The places I usually drag, we only run through 4th or so, so the advantage of the lower gearing gives me a big one-up. You'll notice how much quicker you'll get to the powerband, made my bike much more enjoyable.

The reason why is because manufacturers are talking about the CC of domes, they aren't actually referring to the size of the dome, they are talking about the size of the combustion chamber you will be left with. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but Banshee's are a zero deck engine, meaning the piston comes dead even with the top of the block (jug), those the CC of your combustion chamber is set in the dome of the stock or aftermarket head. So a smaller CC dome (as quoted by manufacturers) is actually a lager insert, giving you a smaller CC combustion chamber, ie. same amount of air compressed into a smaller area ==> higher compression. Point I'm getting at is smaller domes (CC) are actually bigger in physical size so that the volume of the dome you are left with in the combustion chamber is smaller.

Actually, I think you're confusing a few concepts here. Boring does cange the displacement, in the case of Banshees measured in CC (cubic centimeters). As you increase your bore you increase displacement, as displacement the result of bore and stroke (and pi etc.). What you are talking about is the volume of the combustion chamber, which will be affected by increasing bore as well. When you bore, the displacement of the bike will change (ie. greater than 347cc), but the CC of the combustion chamber will increase also. This is why you should also looked at having your head milled as well. Essentially, the area you are compressing the air/fuel mix into will increase also, lowering compression. Depending on the amount of overbore it may not be noticeable, but the formula for calculating how much compression will drop gets complicated because you are actually forcing more air (due to increased displacement) into a somewhat larger space, soo....

I'm not too certain about the effects strokers have on the banshee setup. however... In automotive applications strokers do not usually turn the RPM's that unstroked motors will. IE the reason why you generally get more Torque, but not as much peak HP out of a stroker, since HP is essentially Torque over time (added RPM). So all else the same, you would not get the RPM out the stroker. Again my knowledge of stroker setups come from auto apps. In theory should be the same, but maybe I'm all wet?

I was looking at a Pro Design or Trinity billet timing plate, but they are around $100, plus nobody ever sees it anyway. The Ricky Stator (what I've got) is cast so it's not all shiny, but you won't see it, plus you don't need the strength of billet. Mine was $45 w/shipping and I had it at my door three days later. You will probably need to clearance the mounting ears for mounting the timing plate to the case. Fit is just a little too tight. Don't try forcing it in, you'll probably break the ears off (this will make more sense when you see the piece). I used an air pistol grip sander with a Roloc sanding disc, made quick, neat work of it and it slipped right in. I run 4 degrees, heard people running as much as +5 on stock port. +4 seemed to really make it rip, prolly go +5+?? after porting.

Yes you are richening your air/fuel ratio, by running less oil. I think where the confusion started is by richening your oil/fuel (implies oil-to-fuel ratio), you would be saying you were going to run more oil per 1 part air, which in turn leans your air/fuel, less fuel more oil. Wording is crucial, it was just a mix up on what was trying to be said.

So, in theory, a perfectly functioning TORS system should have no performance limiting factors, inherent in its design? I get the difference between the carb tops and the action of the TORS unit itself... sounds like a time/headache saver for down the road.

Yep, T5's rock... similar mods, buddy with SST's can't touch me (dunes riding).

Oh my bad... Yeah, if I was going to change mix ratio that would be the way to go as opposed to more oil.

I love my T5's. They work great with bolt-on's, plus they take well to modifications. But keep in mind, what kind of riding will you be doing? As much as I love my T5's, there may be better pipes for you depending on riding type, and plans for future mods. Also, lots of people will probably tell you the same.

If you richen up your oil/fuel ratio (ie. 24:1 compared to your current 32:1) you will effectively be leaning out your jetting. Essentially you will have more oil less fuel (leaner). If you don't want to mess with jetting, I probably wouldn't run a higher ratio of oil. Leaner = more heat (also more power unless it sticks because its too lean).

Agree... doesn't sound like you actually have a bog associated with too big of a main jet, since it will slowly build the RPM back up. If it bogged and didn't clean up, then I would be looking to make some jetting/needle adjustments. But sounds like a gearing issue. If you wanted to make some adjustment you could try richening the needle a half position (if you have the needle washers) and see if that helps, just in case you are slightly lean on that circuit, but it doesn't really sound like you are.

You'll probably get mixed responses on this, but here is my $.02 I did go up one jet size after advancing my timing 4 degrees. The plugs were actually just slightly lighter tan, after going up one size (+4 degrees), than they were before w/o timing advance. I also cut in a little Trick race fuel. The need for race fuel is generally only due to increased compression, but for extra insurance I mixed in 20% just make sure I had a little more stable fuel charge to help cope with the advance.

First, great post Meat... all of these are things you should have checked. Additionally, have you checked for air leaks on your bike? Did you have the head milled recently, if so did you create an air leak at that time. Usually, an air leak would be accentuated by higher rpm idle, but it could cause it to not want to idle if bad enough. Also, as itsaripper said, the key is figuring out why it won't work on your bike. Good luck