2003LimitedBanshee

loco... by this do you mean a separate circuit to power the higher output brake light? If so my '03 does have a standard 1157 type bulb with a taillight and brake light circuit, so I would think I would be good to go.

To my knowledge the CDI box is a non-serviceable piece, thus you cannot bench test it to determine if it is faulty. If you have a bud with a bike, you could try swapping the CDI's. It sounds like DL Noss may be on to the problem you are having, since he asked for a specific condition which you reported you had. Sorry I don't know what these symptoms indicate, but it sounds like Noss might. You could run into piston/spark plug interference if you are running a stroker (don't think your mods listed that), or if you are running a plug with the wrong reach. Assuming you are running a BR8ES or B8ES, as long as the Noss head does not require a different reach plug (don't believe it does, Noss will be able to set it straight for sure) this shouldn't really be an issue.

280's are a pretty common jet size, recommended by most manufacturers after installing pipes. I did pipes, removed airbox, reeds all in one move and went from the stock 200 to 330 (yes it's spot on and I could post pics for the naysayers)which seemed unheard of but that is what the bike took. If you are leaving the stock airbox in place 280's should be pretty close, your elevation and air temp will play a part, if you post that we could probably get you very near to perfect, but plug color is the determinant. You probably shouldn't have to go up on the pilots if pipes are all you're doing at this point. Once you do airbox/filter changes and/or reeds you'll probably need to bump the pilot up.

Holding/not holding the clutch won't have any effect on flooding or not. Did you switch your tank to reserve? At the break over point of normal to reserve you can usually get just enough gas to feed the right cylinder (this is due to the almost always sloped configuration of the stock fuel lines which will tend to "run downhill" to the right carb). I would try switching to reserve if you have not already, or just gas it up (no offense but you are running premix right?, you said you just got it so not sure if you're new to 2 strokes). Beyond that a real good place to start is to check the plugs to see if they appear fouled, check the air filter to make sure it is not really dirty, and gas it up. You'd be surprised how easy some fixes can be. Try that and get back to us.

Hey, I was just wondering if anyone has heard of, or knows if a TRX 450 LED Taillight could be adapted to a Banshee. I saw a guy running a clear lens w/red LEDS on a TRX 450 last weekend. Liked the way it looked, clear plus it was much less clunky than the stock Banshee taillight. Thinking about trying to find/run one. Any info is a big plus!

Essentially, you remove enough material to open up the reed cages, but not so far that the reeds don't have a surface to seal against. You could use some Dykum (prolly wrong spelling) blue, which is essentially a very light die to mark out the areas where you need to remove material. You would mark the outside of the reed petal and then move a small amount in from that and you could remove up to that point. I know my Boyesen reeds allowed the cage to be opened up a pretty significant amount. Some guys say this doesn't do anything, but the way I see it, it has to flow more air after you port the cages.

Just thought I would post a little tidbit of info regarding the infamous flywheel holding tool I had been looking for. I found one that is a combo flywheel holder/clutch tool at a dealership on the Oregon coast. Unfortunately, I found it because I puked a stator on a dune trip and had to tear the bike down and replace the stator in the campground. Had to go to the dealership to get a flywheel puller (didn't bring mine) and they had the tool for holding the flywheel. It's made by Pro Motion and worked like a champ, plus will come in handy once I have to do a clutch after getting the porting done.

With the carbs removed, set them on your workbench (or table, whatever) upside down with float bowls removed. Now you need to measure the distance from the float bowl gasket surface to the highest point on the float. This distance is from the gasket surface on the carb so you either need to remove the bowl gasket, or add approx 1mm (your can measure to get exact dimension) to your measurement to compensate for the thickness of the gasket. I believe Clymers says the setting should be 21mm from the gasket mounting surface to the top of the float. If the setting is anything different you'll need to adjust (delicately bend) the tang that the floats attach to either up or down depending on your measurements. Make sure that you check both floats to make sure you did not twist the float mechanism when adjusting. With all of that said, my bet is probably on a small piece of grit, sand etc. stuck in the float needle seat. I've had this happen a few times and have had luck spraying B-12 Chemtool into the fuel inlet on the carb, with the float bowl off to flush the needle and seat. You could try this first, it may save you some complete disassembly time.

That is probably the key difference in the terrain, and why I don't have many issues with the 9's. Where I ride I don't know that I have EVER gotten into 6th gear. If so, it was for a very short amount of time. On the dune area I ride, and he was talking about riding, even with a 13 tooth front 4th and 5th are plenty fast to scare most anybody.

All I can say is that I ride in the same conditions he said he is riding in, and with 9 paddle haulers (non-extreme) it is absolutely no problem keeping it in the power. Plus a good rider can compensate for alot of tire by shifting their weight around. Plus you said yourself that 8 paddle extremes vs. 9 paddle haulers are pretty much the same. Maybe the sand is a different consistency where you ride and my bike would be overpaddled at that area, but my opinion on the Oregon dunes is that a 9 hauler will do excellent.

I don't know about the Modquad casesaver. I know that is how my T.M. Designworks casesaver installed, so my guess is your good to go.

I run the 20x10x10 9 paddle haulers on my bike. Ride the Oregon Dunes usually Horsfall to Spinreel area. Ran the nines on the stock bike before pipes or anything, made it to where you had to shift much more to keep it in the power, but still manageable. I'd run the nine paddles, especially if you plan on doing more mods down the road, you'll still have enough paddle to hold the power. I drag at Boxcar and get plenty of spin off the line, and grip for 4th gear wheelies on the top.

Mail is 37 cents now... just wanted to point that out to be annoying.

Run 'em. I would set at the 4th clip and take a #1 phillips so you can pull the slides and adjust if you need to, but 4th should be real close. I've been running them for 8+ months with no adverse effects.

It also really depends on your elevation and temp. In Florida I assume your near sea level (don't know I'm from west coast), and probably around 80 degrees or so. With that setup I would also guess around 310 maybe 320 depending on your individual bike. I run my Toomey needle in the 4th position, but it should definitely be 3rd or 4th. Probably 27.5 pilot at 2 turns or so.

You can do it yourself if you have access to some fairly basic tools. If you have access to an air compressor and some air tools it will be much more possible. Basic Outline: 1) Remove left footpeg. 2) Remove left side cover 3) Use Yamaha flywheel puller to remove flywheel (I chose to use a 3/8" impact wrench, on a low setting to remove). Also, make sure and check the clearance between lobe on flywheel and pickup (mounted lower right-hand side) so that you can set proper clearance when re-installing using feeler gauges. 4) Use #3 Phillips screwdriver to remove stator and stock timing plate. 5) Next you'll most likely need to sand/grind a small amount of material from each "ear" of the new plate so that it will fit right in (make small adjustments and test fit often) 6) Reinstall using new adjustable timing plate, make sure to attach all wire fasteners and stator. Also reinstall pickup loosely so that you can make final adjustments to the air gap after installing the flywheel. 7) Set timing at selected amount of advance and tighten mounting screws. 8) Reinstall flywheel (this is probably the hardest part unless you have the obscure flywheel holding tool shown in the Clymers), I believe it torques to 59 ft-lbs. Make sure you do not knock the Woodruff (sp?) key loose at any point... the flywheel is keyed and will install easily if all is lined up. As backwoods, ghetto as it sounds I used the #3 Phillips and the balancing marks drilled into the flywheel to brace between the flywheel and the frame. Make sure you can hold the screwdriver in place or you can definitely do some damage. Essentially you use the screwdriver as a wedge so that the flywheel will load against the screwdriver as the flywheel tries to rotate under the load of the torque wrench. The butt of the screwdriver handle will load against the frame in the "U" area close to where the swinger bolts on. Or if you have a real strong friend who can hold a smooth flywheel against 59 ft-lbs (but the tool shown in the Clymers would be nice to find, haven't yet though ) 9) Set the air gap between the flywheel lobe and the pickup. Ricky Stator says to go as tight as possible but not tighter than .020". I would set it back to the the measurement you got on disassembly (mine was .032"). 10) At this point I like to fire the back just to make sure all is well. 11) Reassemble remaining side cover, footpeg etc. Think I got it all, but I'm sure someone will set me straight if not.

Pinned at WOT is the only real good way to read the plug color. If you don't do this, it probably will look overly rich, as far as color is concerned. Do it at WOT and then read the plugs.

That is true... stock to stock with no other mods the T6's will make slightly more power than the T5's. But, everyone (including myself) that is recommending T5's knows that pipes are where it starts. Chances are you will end up doing more down the road, it's just that addicting, and if you do mod you'll be better served with T5's.

This sounds as though it might be a float height, or stuck float needle issue. If the float is set to high it could be causing the rich problem, but as soon as you turn the fuel off the bowl is not getting replenished, thus it leans out to the proper (idle rpm would be a bit high at 2000) idle speed. I would start by checking that out and try flushing the carb. I have cleared out stuck floats by removing the carb, and spraying aersolized carb cleaner into the fuel inlet line on the carb.

350's might be big, however I run 340's with the mods in my sig. No cool head yet (will be NOSS), or porting, but that is what I run and it is spot on, with no air leaks. I'm at about the same elev. and temp (now, much warmer in summer), so 350 is probably a bit big, but probably in the ballpark.

TM only claims their case savers will fit 12-15 tooth setups. I run a 13 no problem (obviously), and it sounds like you should be able to run bigger (mike23), so... http://www.tmdesignworks.com/xcart/custome...&cat=255&page=1

I'm in the 4th position from the blunt end (2 richer and 3 leaner possibilities). I would guess you will probably be in the 4th position also, should definitely be within one setting rich or lean at the 4th. The fact that the needles are longer and have an easier taper gives you more control on the midrange "jetting".

T6's are the best for your money, if you absolutely do not plan on doing any mods such as porting. Toomey claims several more horsepower out of the T6's over the T5's. I would (and did) get the T5's because speed is addicting. I did not plan on doing much more than pipes after I first got pipes, but it's all been downhill (faster) since then.

Sounds like the definitive answer should be coming... but going with smaller domes, means higher compression, and in every scenario I've ever heard of more compression = more power

If your talking about the swingarm slider (the one you have to take the swingarm off to replace with a stock unit), TM's website says it will accomodate 13-17 tooth front sprockets so you should be good with a 16. Are you riding flatter, more open woods. Those sound like tall gears you're pulling, but I ride on the west coast with tight, steep wooded areas, and shorter gearing is preferable. Sorry forgot to add link: http://www.tmdesignworks.com/xcart/custome...&cat=274&page=1