2003LimitedBanshee

Not necessarily... spring length has very little to do with spring tension. In fact, if the aftermarket springs have the same number of coils as stock, in a shorter configuration, made from the same material it would be significantly stiffer. Don't confuse spring length as any correlation to spring tension/rate. As far as the o-rings your guess is as good as mine.

Agreed! I hadn't had any problems with mine... but for under $100 anyone should do themselves a favor and replace it. Plus the impeller design of the Pro Design billet is superior to the stock piece. The vanes of the Pro Design are closed in the center which will provide better flow; whereas the stock unit is open in the center and can have some loss of flow as not all coolant is moved.

It could definitely be the ground... but I would also check the gap between the flywheel and the pickup. My factory gap was set at .032", Ricky Stator says to go as tight as you can, but no tighter than .020". Both of these are quick checks, and will probably find the problem. Plugs don't usually just go bad, but I guess it's possible.

I use T.M. Designworks stuff on my bike. Running for a few months now, and no complaints what-so-ever, a little pricier than UPP stuff I've seen, but they have a two year replacement guarantee (supposedly unconditional), which seems like a smoking deal to me.

Great point!! Running more oil (ie. 32:1 as opposed to 80:1) will cause a leaner condition. This is because there is less fuel, due to the higher ratio of oil. As you run lower ratios of oil (higher number 80:1) you are effectively richening your fuel charge, thus you won't require as big of a main jet. I've always run Golden Spectro at 50:1 so unfortunately I can't speak as to how much you should change jetting for different mix ratios.

My first guess is still jetting, my experiences with T5's is that they will prefer more jetting than the 280 Toomey recommends. I know this is supposed to be "Perfect", but everyone I can think of has gone above and beyond this setting. But could someone please explain why everyone hates TORS. I have yet to have any problems with it, but will probably still remove, cuz everyone else has. Is the TORS in someway a performance limiter of the stock carbs. My only thought is that maybe they could limit throttle response since it monitors for difference in throttle and slide position, and under snap throttle movements could register as a mismatch... Sorry not to bootleg your post, but just curious. But yeah, I would still suspect jetting.

Check out this thread, just a few days old, right along the same lines... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=51058

I've heard not so spectacular things about the Dial-a-Jet, plus jetting is not that difficult, good jetting takes a little more skill, but still doable for the DIY-er. Colder temps mean more dense air, ie. leaner, so you have to jet up within reason (depending on temperature difference). Higher elevation means less dense air, ie. richer, so you have to jet down with same stipulations as above. Do a Wide open throttle (WOT) plug check, this is where you determine if the main jets are appropriately set... from there tune the midrange with the needle setting.

Exactly, Centerforce has made effective use of this idea with their car pressure plates. Possibly more effective and applicable in banshee applications due to the higher RPM's.

yes ...and yes. You guys actually both described the same configuration. The tires are mounted so that the outer tire in a turn has the flat side of the rib facing the outside of the turn. It is designed to keep the bike from wanting to push to the outside of the turn, but could potentially make it a little more prone to high siding in really! hard cornering. Haven't ever tried but reverse configuration, but might work as good... well probably not because the inner tire in a corner has less downforce, and thus would be more likely to skate on top of the sand. Hmmm testing idea though?

My first thought is that when you disassembled/reassembled the carbs, did you accidentally switch the slides. This seems to usually cause poor idling attributes. Also I would think that you are too big on the pilots, you must have a ton of turns out on the air screws to compensate... But, if it ran good before disassembly and cleaning, my first bet is on the slides being switched.

Ditto, my guess is that you actually have a lean bog. With airbox minus lid, I would shoot for the 300-310 range. Without the airbox, I am running 340's, Dynojet needle (6 positions) in the 4th clip from blunt end, and 27.5 pilots. Good luck, let us know how it reacts to the changes.

Great post Banshee~.. Every banshee owner should familiarize themselves with that page. As you can see from the article, I would consider going up to a 310 main. Actually, a bog at 1/8 - 3/4 throttle could be fixed by simply making an adjustment to your needle. To make certain that you are experiencing a rich bog, while you are in that throttle range pull the choke one click. This should cause a rich condition to worsen, while if you're lean pulling the choke should help the condition. Then make a needle adjustment as necessary.

The key here is good riding. I usually start out in 1st gear, with my 13 tooth front sprocket. Granted if you line up against someone of exact equal skill, if you have to shift more you're gonna lose, no question. Well there is probably most of the answer. A good port job is going to help you make a significant amount more power, and help you to pull that taller gear. Also, do try and find out what all has been done to your bike. Makes you more knowledgable about what you could do for more power, and gives you more credibility.

Awesome! Thanks for the info... I was wondering what kind of difference I was making by advancing the timing, with my current mods. I went up to 340's and the plug color seems spot on. It was a slightly darker chocolate milk color, but now has a nice light chocolate milk color! I think I can feel a noticeable difference and throttle response seems significantly better. Thanks

Agree... I cannot believe that you should be nearly that high with only K&N w/o lid. You also shouldn't need to make any pilot adjustments. With my mods (in sig, minus timing plate at the time), I didn't need to make any pilot changes until I went to Oregon dunes at sea level and 20 degrees cooler. Are you fouling plugs with that main? I know you said you've checked for air leaks but, I'd check again... thinking there has to be something. How high are you revving it when it hangs (indication of lean condition). You might try making a needle adjustment to richen it up (clip down a position, maybe two but prolly not) through the midrange.

Main jets will have very little to no effect on hard start conditions. The pilot and air jets air the primary factor in this circuit. Have you checked to make sure that you have the choke crossover in place, or that one end has not come loose. One time quite a while back when changing my pilots I forgot to connect the crossover tube After a couple minutes of cussing the time I'd just spent to make it to where it wouldn't run... duh, connected it up and started perfect. I know it seems stupid to ask, but you'd be surprised.

That sounds about right with how your running with your buddy's yfz, although with some work you should be able to take him out if his is totally stock. You can see my mods in my sig, basically the same as yours, no airbox... when I ran a buddy on his yfz over at the dunes, it was dead on. He had done a K&N filter, jetted it and gutted his factory silencer. I had everything, less that Ricky Stator timing plate, oh yeah, and I had a 13 tooth front sprocket. I would recommend the timing plate, only $45 or so shipped to your door, and short install time. Right off sounded more aggressive, and made a noticeable difference. Porting and head are next for me too. If you want to wait, and stick to bolt ons, go with a timing plate. V-Force reeds are supposed to be killer, 3's seem to be in higher standing now, but 2's still have a strong following. Helps, mid a fair amount apparently. If you don't ride in water, think about ditching the airbox and running some kind of K&N clamp on or the 2:1 UNI that Toomey offers.

Exactly race gas smells awesome... I too ran it at times just for that. And like the first post, with the cost of premium being so high, you are probably looking at only about $1 more per gallon.

The factory recommended plug is NGK BR8ES. Some guys on hear run NGK B8ES, which is a non-resistor plug, but in all honesty I'm not certain why... Maybe somebody out there knows the benefit or reason.

That's what's awesome about dlnoss's black anodized head. I'm totally with you on the whole sleeper idea... I'm going to be popping for a head before too long, and will go with Noss, black anodized, for the aftermarket benefits, plus the sleeper-under-the-radar effect.

Sorry misread you original post... I didn't see where you said that you had the locking washer in place stupid me . It is true that you should have a slight amount of movement, that will allow for thrust. But if it seems more than you have noticed before I would check into it further. I will see if I can find and thrust tolerances...

Yes... there should be a washer behind the sprocket. It is splined (obviously very coarsely) as well. If you don't have that in place, I would be willing to bet that is the source of your problem.

Okay I just installed my Ricky Stator adj. timing plate. I've gone up one size on my mains, also fuel is already cut with 20% Trick race fuel (not needed, but trying to use up the rest of a 55 gal drum). I'm setting it up with 4 degrees advance, and I just want to make sure there are no more must do's before I take it out and run it through. I've heard from a couple people who warned me about "melting it down" after they installed a timing plate. But wasn't able to determine if they rejetted, etc. Everyone think all is well, go rip?

I can't imagine that the bowls are running out of fuel unless the float height is way off. I can run mine wide open with 330's through the gears and pin it in 6th for 6-10 for a plug check and I've never run out of fuel in the bowls. If you think it is running out of fuel, I would check to make sure the fuel petcock isn't all junked up, causing decreased flow. My thoughts are that the factory setup (including the needle assembly in the float, fuel lines etc.) should flow plenty of fuel to support 280 mains, as long as there aren't any restrictions.