2003LimitedBanshee

I'm sure he is talking about 5 degrees C, based on his elevation being at 300m. We're about the only country left that still uses degrees F, and ft to measure elevation. So if my math is right he is about 41 degrees F. And have to agree, unless somebody has swapped those carbs, he should have 26's. edit: Oh yeah and about 1000' elevation more or less.

Sound right on to me. The stock needle will definitely give you a leaner midrange in the same clip position as the aftermarket needles, and thus as Rocketboy mentioned most likely cause you to miss some power. You would probably have to go at least one position richer on the stock needle to be comparable to the Vito's in one position leaner (ie. 5th on stock to 4th on Vito's), plus the Vito's I'm betting has an additional position to allow even better tuning. My personal opinion is that you can probably make it work with either needle, but it comes down to personal preference, I just happen to prefer the aftermarket needles.

It sounds as though you may want to bump your pilot up one size to 27.5, with about 1.5 turns on the air screws. 1/8 to 1/4 is technically just a little outside of the range of the pilot, although it will of course affect every throttle position in a minor way, and because you didn't mention any other issues through the midrange I would say Hilarious was right to suspect your pilot. Once you bump your pilot up, adjust the air screws so that you get the best throttle response possible, right of idle.

I would try the 4th clip first. As mentioned the FMF's don't seem to like quite as rich jetting compared to a few other pipes. Therefore, I'd go with the 4th clip first, but keep in mind every bike is a little different so you may end up going with the 5th, you'll just have to see how it responds.

Just bought a Hinson Clutch Basket and Pressure Plate from DUNEDEMON, brand new just as stated. Excellent communication, shipped the parts exactly when he said he would, all around perfect transaction. Thanks a bunch, and would highly recommend DUNEDEMON!

Yea... the T5's run great without porting too. Sorry don't know too much about the DMC;s

UH NO! Ding, Winner! Case saver was one of my early mods, right after pipes and a few other things. Anyway I don't want to, and didn't intend to dump on your thread so...

Yep... I have the T5's and love them. The T6's are claimed to perform better on stock engines by a small margin, but the T5's perform better with porting than the T6's. Unless you absolutely never, ever plan on porting, I would get the T5's. If you're newer to Banshee's you'll soon find that what you've got it almost never enough, and you'll keep modding.

Not to be picky, but I didn't realize that the busted case corner was NORMAL, I guess that means mine is RARE, without the busted case corner? Not too sure about the price, as I've never bought an engine separate, never blown mine up...

Purple is good for at least 1 extra HP! Especially if it is paint or graphics (then it's like 5+). Seriously though, I haven't seen a set of the Vito's up close and personal, but I would guess they are a similar design to the Dynojet needles. With that said, some will say they're great, some say they suck, and others say they don't do anything good or bad. I run the Dynojet needles and feel they offer me more tuneability than the stock needles. My guess is the Vito's would do the same, IMO. I'm sure others will chime in with maybe a more specific answer, and opinions.

A simplistic view would be essentially like overheard (or flathead for that matter) intake valves in a standard for stroke engine. They essentially control the flow (timing) of the fuel/air mix into the cylinders. The VForce system is the more preferred reed design because it has twice the petals due to its configuration. This allows the reeds to open half as far and still flow the same amount of fuel and air. This leads to extended reed life, because the reeds do not have to open as far; as well as higher absolute flow capabilities.

Definitely worth the money. As others have mentioned, definitely get the plate from RS. You can buy the billet plates for around $100, but no one will ever see it, so you might as well buy the cast plate from Ricky Stator. This is generally good for 2-4 HP, depending on how much you advance it. Most (including myself at this point) usually go for around 4 degrees advance. Also, it has been debated many times, but you may consider going up one size on your main jet, and checking the plug color to make sure you are jetted correctly. Often you will end up coming back down to the same jet as before, but safe insurance. If you want, also have the flywheel lightened to improve throttle response, but it's no big deal to do it later either. I personally run a 20% mix of Trick 116 to be on the safe side, but have heard from a large majority that you do not typically need to run higher octane simply as a result of advancing the timing.

DING! Hit the nail on the head, give that guy a round of applause. Bad publicity for whatever reason would definitely keep me from considering these as an option, no matter how much more power they were touted to make.

It will be really close to the switching point for the pilot. I would bet you will probably have to go up a size to a 27.5, and probably a clip position or two richer, in addtition to richening the main by several sizes. As Banchetta mentioned you will probably end up in the 290 or 300 range with the lid off. In order to take the lid off it requires the ProFlow kit, so you would be in this range most likely.

Yeah I've always just called it speed shifting. Won me many street exhibitions in my 63 Nova with a Muncie 4 spd. And you hit it, as long as you're forward on the bike you should be able to keep it down. I have had mine come up on me, even when I was forward, when things were just perfect apparently. But then again the street is a different animal. I usually ride sand, and when I ride street it's with dirt tires. so I can usually slip the dirt tires, don't know how street tires would react.

Not that it is a big deal since you've found a source, but low pressure wouldn't be an issue, it is more a temperature issue. I'm sure this is what you meant, since you mentioned that the original source was high temp, but thought I would make sure.

Speed shift... that is the key for me. Especially now that you have done some mods you need to be halfway adept at shifting to pull this off safely, but it's not magic. In case you don't know, speed shifting is where you essentially pull the clutch (real fast) and shift, while never lifting your thumb off the throttle. Once you get good, you can shift lightning fast. You definitely should look at the timing advance, although pretty much everyone will tell you to go with a plate, as opposed to the key. Look at the Ricky Stator plate; only $35. I like the Boyesen PowerReeds, seemed to make a minor difference over stock, but V-Force (3's are my choice, but many still run and love 2's) is the way to go.

BUMP... anyone heard from BdBanshee in a while? I tried PM'ing him, and shooting him an email at the email add above. I think it said he logged on earlier. I'd like to check into having my flywheel lightened but...

Don't mean to burst your bubble but this stuff has been around for quite a while. I personally wouldn't run this stuff on my quad. But I see people running stuff I would personally pick all the time. Therefore, you might do real well with it, but I'm pretty sure it's readily available.

The timing plate, and V-Forces make a pretty decent difference in my opinion. Nothing is going to give you the initial bang for the buck that pipes will over stock. Porting is about the closest, and could be comparable HP per $$. I'm with Banshee17, the $35 timing plate from RS is well worth the peace of mind. Also, you can get a tool, I believe mine is from Pro Motion, that is a combination flywheel holder, and clutch holder. It looks alot like a set of vice grips, and works great!

I could be all wet, but I was under the impression that it could cause some damage to the electrical. You could swap for some PIAA bulbs, which will provide whiter light, at the stock wattage. Or you could upgade the stator to a RS and run BIG lights.

Dang you both beat me to it. You can check the resistance on the stator to more or less determine if your problem lies here. I don't have my Clymer's in front of me, but I'm pretty certain it covers the resistance figures in there. Or if you have an honest stealership in the area they will usually test it for free. I had to do that once when I had a stator take a crap on me at the dunes, and I didn't have my multimeter with me. They're usually glad to do it, because they figure they might sell you a stator out of it. Also, everyone else has hit the major things to check.

I don't know, but I'm guessing that he pulled full throttle several times throughout this ride, but those plugs were ridden at lower throttle positions before shutting down. Although I do have to agree, it seems a bit dark given short ride time. But based on where I have my stock port bike jetted right now, I can't imagine that he'd be too rich, but every bike is different so.... As suggested above warm it up, varying the throttle during, then I usually blast through all six, and hold it pinned for 6-10 seconds, pull clutch, hit kill. Let us know how they look after that.

IN my sig also but... T5's, Toomey 2:1 with UNI element, 27.5 pilot, 4th clip from blunt on Dynojet needle (6 total positions) and 340 mains. Jetting setup for Oregon dunes (sea level) approx 65 degrees. The stock needles are slightly more blunt with less taper than the Dynojet needles, therefore you will be flowing more fuel at the same midrange rpm, now that you have the larger mains installed. This will in effect richen the midrange even without a clip adjustment.

I assume you aren't doing any airbox modifications or removal at this point, as you didn't mention it?? If not, it seems like the FMF's generally end up in the 280 range, with pipes/silencers being the only mod. I haven't jetted a set personally, but that seems to be where the other threads have ended up around. Keep in mind other mods, temperature and fuel/oil mix ratio will all have an impact on you main jetting. You probably shouldn't need to make any pilot jet adjustments, but you may need to make a needle adjustment after changing the mains, quite possibly one clip position (two at the most) richer. Again all just ballpark estimates, but a WOT plug check should confirm.