trickedcarbine

Pj carbs can be weird if they are the first set of big carbs you are learning to tune. The jetting you have listed is a lil fat from my experience. Try the pilot between 48-55. Needle should be either CGL or CEL. The clip is up to you. As for your main jet, you should be 148-155ish. Start out on the fat end. Here are the most critical tid bits of info on a Pj carb. They don't really rely on your airscrew adjustments to make the bike idle. To get the idle, you need to turn the choke knobs out about 7 1/2 turns. Mark them with a paint pen or white out to keep track of where they are at. Keep the air screws at about 2 turns, and leave them till the bike doesn't feel like it could possibly run any better.

Pm sent, also got some shiny goodies laying around.

Agreed: MOST will never push an axle to it's potential. I got ya though. I tried to kinda specify that it was more desirable for actual racing. I just love how much more smooth it can be on really fast smooth surfaces. Only better axle is the RPM Dominator. So, what's he deal griff? I expect to see pics of this LSR stuff on your rig, or a pm tellin me where to get it.

There is a reason one is more the other. Usually the excuse is high end name brand, but in this case it actually isn't. QUALITY! The Lonestar piece will take abuse for years, run higher speeds with less vibration, and flex less. All superior qualities when it comes to racing flat track. Ran my lonestar axle for probably 10 years and I am just now begining to contemplate a replacement. The splines on the hubs are starting to wear, but again, after a decade. So grab that stuff up!

Holy cow, $300 bucks for LSR +2+3 arms? That is a helluva friggin deal! Take them. If you don't, please pm me where and who I need to talk to. I would love those on my flat track setup. You will be able to get away with them being about 50" wide. If you run aftermarket wheels, just discuss the offset you want with the folks you are buying them from. Little tip on that note: if they can't explain or tell you how to properly set your offset, then they aren't worth your dollars. Call someone else. And if they don't quite tech in at 50 inches, just raise the front end up for tech, and lower it at race time. Most techs will never question any name brand aftermarket production setups though.

Windy, I say go for it. Alot of guys will say that you're wasting your time, but really you never know how the actual results will be. As long as you aren't a fuggin hack and are gonna test something different it will be more then worth it. There aren't many pioneers left in our world and it takes alot of character to go the road less travled knowing the odds are against you. I have a dude I just met that had a 2/1 intake from trinity and after you hold in your hand and see the design, you instantly know there is much to be desired. So we took a manifold off my old 440 exciter motor and found a 38mm pwk to use behind it. Let me tell ya', that bike will be sweet in the trails! Yes, it could make more top end, but not much of his riding ever gets up in the 5th/6th gear range. Plus new pipes could change the whole bike if he needs it. It makes wicked snappy 250 type bottom end and enough mid to pull the front down the straights on our ice track. There are plenty of good sleds out there with good power that run ONE carb and ONE pipe. Just gotta get people willing to put enough time in to make it work right. Here's the combo of old parts we put together. Stock cylinder 4mil, cool head with stroker domes @120 psi, boyeheson rad valves w/dual stage reeds, slightly modified 440 exciter manifold, 38 pwk, and early fmf golds.

Just practice the hole shot. Don't just rev the motor and dump the clutch, these things just blow the tires off every time if you do. Try locking the front brakes and loading the bike's suspension up by slipping the clutch just a hair while your on the throttle. Friggin 450's walking on banshees, pshhhhhh. Those things may be torque monsters and all, but they pretty much peak at around 65HP with full tilt motors.(big bore, stroker, porting, valves, etc.) Not to many of those out there compared to built banshees though. Fortunately for me I have had a built banshee before the 450's even came out in 2004, and have only beat by one 450 ever thanks to Brad Tyson's fuggin handy TURBO skills. Damn thing made 105 HP without touching the bottle of spray on the bumper. Too bad it was half as reliable as any banshee. Not to mention that when it does let go it would cost 3 times as much to rebuild.

Tyson Racing! Brad always calls back even if it is only for tech help, wich always turns to an hour long of bench racing. He does alot other work in the day time now, but try to give him a call after 5:00 or so.

Well, the theory will definitely be tested either way.. Due to the new sleeve being a nikasil sleeve, it will be thinner and problably be in the 68-70mm area and with a 4 mil crank it will be a decent sized motor. Plus the exhaust on the original viper sleeves before had the potential to out flow the intake on full drag port, but it did seem as if there was more left in it if the transfers were addressed before actually inserting the sleeve. No worries though GoFast, I definitely know what you meant. Just trying to develop a way to flow as much as a full ported drag cylinder, yet still have enough velocity to develop big torque. Not to mention the price for me is pretty acceptable. Only thing I gotta pay for is pistons, intake work, wich isn't much more then a good port job, and possibly some domes.

Cam, e-mail is sent. It is just a few I had the guy dig up real quick. Yamahaman244, mobile photobucket? Holy shit good to know. Bout to check that out asap. That would sure save alot of aggravation. By the way, the guy who does the intake work does have a shop. It is called Spec II Racing.

I gotta get on a real computer to get a new photobucket account set up to get pix. Man it would be so nice to upload directly from a smart phone. By the way, did David Hasselhoff just call me a homo?

.Good info, appreciate it bro. I have only heard of lube holes like that one time, and it was a very long time ago on a big bore hill climb CR500. I will problably be using blaster style weisco pistons in it so there will be a little more work in it now. Better then losing another set of pistons. Any way I can ask you to elaborate on the concept of the procedure and how it really works with out leaking the air/fuel charge off through the front of the piston, or is it just a few pin holes exactley in front of the bridge. I ran some Viper Sleeves before and had no issues. Just wondering how nessacary they are. Also, what about another style of piston, such as WSM?

Nah, just a guy who works solo out in Cali as a pull barn legend. Really the dude is more in to RZ/RD 350 road & track bikes. He used to do some work for Moto Carrera, and has recently started building TT Banshees and a dune Shee for himself. Any info on the fellas at PSI Power? Phone number or website?

Yes, but the bridge is there so you can make a huge triangular exhaust port and not worry about the ring catching or snagging the edge of the port and getting damaged. The problem used to be that big bore sleeves would choke off the transfers, but now we are possibly going to try a little thinner liner with nikasil and hog out a little of the casting area around the transfers while the old sleeves are out. Look around for info on the viper sleeve, it used to me exclusive to Lakes Motorsports, but Mike is trying to sell it on a larger scale now.

Ok, heres the plan. Since I am building a new motor I have a spare engine with trashed cylinders to do some mule work with. I have been talking with a guy about a slight redesign on an already well known bridged exhaust big bore sleeve called the viper sleeve. The current design is a very huge bridged exhaust layout, that is definitely geared toward the drag guys. However, we have been working on a way to get a big bore sleeve with the same style bridged monster exhaust just alot lower, but way wider. And adjust transfers accordingly. Then there is a guy I met at a bike show that is converting the actual cylinders of RD350/RZ350 bikes to 250R style intakes. He actually removes the stock intake plenum off the yamaha cylinders and tig welds on the 250R plenum/flange. The bikes he builds are modded stock cylinder 4mils that are pretty notorious for hunting down well set up 4mil kitty cub motors. So, I figure since there is nothing left on my cylinders to bore/hone, I might as well have the prototype sleeves put in (for nothing), then have this guy set up some of the monster 250r plenums. He says he has been making almost 55+ ft lbs. and 100hp on RD cylinders. The cost on the project is the 450 to machine and weld on new intakes. $200 a cylinder, plus $25 per machined flange. I have pix somewhere of the intake. Let me know if you guys want an update on the turn out.

Hey, thanks fellas. I appreciate the help. Gutted the gas cap right before posting the topic, so I hope it helps. Some people just don't believe how much fuel a flat track bike will use. We are pretty much hot lap drag racing for 40 runs straight, plus there is the almost wide open throttle turns inbetween. I guess it is time to pony up and just get this pump situation sorted. Any one know who to contact about proper needle and seat for use with a pump?

Ok, I run an oval bike currently with a 4mm stock cylinder motor that produces about 80hp. The issue is after about 2/3 laps the bike begins to show signs of leaning out. (gets hot, popping, etc.) I rode the bike down open dirt roads to get the tune up on jetting right, but once I put it under full load on the ovals it just seems to run out of fuel. I had slight issues last year with my stock stroke motor and remedied the problem with a dual pinguel. I even tried to up jetting on the main and needle but it ran like pig, and just fouled plugs. So it is pretty apparrent that the bowls are going dry. Now comes the new dilema of how to get this motor fed the fuel it needs. I thought about just sticking bigger bowls on it, but I think it would be a waste to spend the money on carbs I will problably not be running in a few months when a twister top end finally goes on. So I remembered I have an old 440 snomobile that my buddy bought a pump for and it is still in the box. I think that since I will definitely be needing a fuel pump on the new motor in a few months I might as well get it on the bike now. I know that I need to tap the cylinder right in front of the reed cage to get the pulse signal, but does any one have an idea on how I go about the return system? Do I just plumb the overflows together from both carbs and run it to a bung on my tank? Also, should I get a regulator to run with the pump?

Hmmmm, R2's and strikers.......... Thing sounds like it would be fun out on a frozen oval. That would be powerful enough to run mountain roads like pikes peak and kill open dunes, yet still be able to ride the occasional trail. Just swoop that little kitty up and let us know how intese it is to ride.

I just upgraded the front end with a set of YFZ binders up front as well as a new rezzy. Now I wanna make sure the rear braking is up to par with the front. I know there was an old thread where some one put the yfz rear caliper on but I can not find it any where. Does any one know the particulars on the rear caliper swap? I know I could do the 250r swap, but after a new brake disc hub, rotor, capiper, and new pads, it would be a bit pricey.

Whoa! Big Red, Windy City, are we gonna have to keep you two leashed up to oppisite sides of camp at the next HQ ride? Lmao Any way, I caught the humor in your post Big Ginger. I definitely can see how you would rather spend the money else where on a bike. Not to mention another company after being unsatisfied with a less then stellar purchase. I am the same way, after a sour purchase of several hundred hard earned dollars, I tend to never be content with a particular company or it's offerings. WCR has had a few hiccups, but when they do it is an astronomical issue. I can no longer justify being a guinea pig for alot of products or services at my cost, however the croy treatment and micropolishing, I will stand behind. I can't argue that $200 tranny a guy bought was worth it or not for his build, because he has a banshee and eventually the motor will be big enough to make a quality tranny with at the very least an easy cut, a super desirable piece. Imo, he got a good deal granted the work is quality. But if some one screws up a simple stock cut they should not even be in business.

Almost all the guys I know that are supposed to be "Pro Tire Builders" are really only selling bike tires. The only guy I know is making quality ATV tires, is Marcel Fournier. He is canadien and he knows what he is doing, but that means nothing but bad for me or you. First off they are made to order, so get in line and expect to wait. Then the fact that he uses his own top shelf studs, means expensive prices. Not to mention the canadiens are f'ing serious about their studs and they are way more aggressive then what AMA rules allow for, so no legal racing in the states. Not even Outlaw classes let you run the monster MF44's, Holidays, or Kanadiens. Last but not least, have you ever paid shipping on tires? Ouch! So, if I were you, I would investigate and research doing the tires your self. It is a little daunting at first but just find a comfy place to lean back and stick that tire in your lap and start drilling away. Check out the threads in the flat track forum and it should give you some hints. Any way, I would be willing to build a set for cost of the tire/wheel package, studs and $100 bucks. Plus what ever it costs to get them shipped to you. Shipping from me might not be bad, because I ship from my tranny shop out that way alot. Pm me if interested.

You can also try using fronts off a 300ex shocks or blaster shocks up front. Then out back you can run the R6 shock. Not sure if the R1 shock is direct bolt up or not but on the R6 will need bushings for the smaller holes. Good knowledge on the raptor 660.

Getting in to real polishing huh? Get ready to walk outta the garage looking like a coal minor. Any wayit would problably almost be a waste to buy used polishing equipment. First you gotta know that the life on polishing equipment is usually short lived for guys who polish alot. So for anything other then your motor and base, it is almost more practical to just hunt down a place with all the expendables for cheap. There are a ton of places with polishing wheels and compounds on clearance almost all the time. For instance, Lowes is switching one of their vendors, meaning they have to liquidate all their old product to update their inventory system. For me and you that means $1.00 compound sticks (aggressive to ultra fine) , $2.00 wheels, $0.50 wheel chucks, etc. I have gone to sears lately and they have a three pack of compound on sale as well. It is always on sale for like $10.00 come to think of it. The bonus is that it is three brick style compound. Emery cake for that tough stuff, white tripoli for medium duty, and a red rouge to make any one finish like a pro. Just be careful with that emery cake it is ultra aggressive and will really eat metal. I have seen quite a few dudes just get lazy on the polishing and try to short cut on lighter work and get way to aggressive with it and make pipes look like they were cast aluminum textured. Jmo man, good luck and put up some pix of your work.

Michigan has quite a few spots to drag on the ice. White lake is a hot spot mecca. Just take M-59 to Ormond Road and once you hit the White Lake Inn you are there. All of the sled guys take real good care of the double lane strip for grudge matches. There is a huge parking lot right accross the street from where you hop on. I try to keep it carpeted on the weekends so it makes for smooth rolling. Plus the Inn keeps drinks on special and the pizza is fuckin' amazing. Great place to warm up and talk trash before the next race or to cap a night off. I know that bike stimbert has, was out on white lake last year and it was mean as hell! So if you know him get him out there again.

Uhhhh.......... dude, automatic tranny's are wet clutches. Not to mention pretty much any gear oil or atf near the viscosity rating reccomended by the factory, will be a little better then almost any "motor oil". Yeah motor oil is ok, just ok. But once you have several thousands of dollars between your frame rails, you would be nuts to trust any motor oil to do the job at the race track. So fill your duner or the trail bike, but change it every ride or be prepared to have a real Shitty time trying to shift it after a while. You could get away with using motor oil by adding a friction modifer like those used by Eaton. I know of a few guys who use straight lucas gear oil and add the friction modifer that is used in clutched limited slip differentials. He's got a shop full of prestigious trophies, so I won't argue. Plus an added benefit to using an oil that is clutch friendly will be extended clutch life. Pennepacker, both of those oils you mentioned will be fine. I work in an automotive transmission warehouse and our builder runs royal purple in any of his performance trannys. That shit is tough! I saw a 4l60e after 20 thousand miles with the Alto red clutches and they were mint. If you race you know those altos do not last long. The max cycle is foreign to me, but apparrently they dynoed it with factory oils and it out performs honda's reccomended oil as well as yamalube. I run the Amsoil atf because I get it for a sweet deal by the case, and in a pinch I will swing by a shop and buy an actual twostroke gearbox oil like motul, belray, klotz,etc.