trickedcarbine

I have ran wsm pistons on my last few builds and would say the results are fair at best. I had one set show alot of weird fracturing, but it could have been from some moisture of ice racing. The set I just pulled out of my current motor tuesday has the entire piece between the two windows missing. They seem ok up to moderate abuse, but they tend to fail in a way very similar to cast pistons. I already need to split my cases to build a new motor, but it would of been nice to know there won't be any scaring on my freshly cryo'd cank. I did hydrolock a motor last year and it made my crank look like a Z shape. However, that motor had Weiseco pistons in it. So when I took it apart, the wrist pins pushed out with a touch of the finger. The WSM definitly need more coaxing with a wood doll and a mallet. I honestly don't see myself buying any more of these in the future though. Just do your self a favor and spend the extra few bucks on a proven forged piston like Weisco.

The leafy hills are quite the terrain to play on. Sometimes it is like trying to drive up a roller table. Any way, yes. The bandits will work a littke better turned around. Not much but it will help. Also, try airing them down a bit and re cut the siping grooves to be like a quater inch wide and somewhere around an eigth inch deep.

I have a buddy with a blaster that is fairly built and he has a pwk for the new motor. The bike is a stroker with head and port work and it has all the supporting goodies to go along with it. I have never tuned a stryker series carb and was just looking for a little info on the intracacies of the stryker carb. I started the bike with a 55 pilot and it was hella rich, so I bumped it back to a 50 and it is still way rich. After looking around I have saw some bikes that have pilots down in the mid 30's to low 40's. I also found that the mains are typicaly lower on strykers compared to its standard pwk cousin. Any one know why a stryker jets so much differently then the regular pwk?It was just so weird and almost felt like I was gonna under jet by going under 50 on the pilot. Any kehin gurus got some handy tips or hints for tinkering with these carbs?

Well, I don't wanna sound like a dick, but there are a few folks who obviously would be asking for a new topend or they could give a shit less about whether your motor runs or not. C'mon guys! You are really gonna tella a guy to just run his bike in the cold and see what happens with out even finding out how it's current tune is? Pretty fucked up. Anyway ec, how was the warmer weather tune? Yeah a 160 sounds a bit rich to me in those temps, even on a pretty built bike. The only way to be sure is pull the plugs and see how they look. If they are tan, you're close. Now decide if the tan is more dry and chalky or if it is a bit more moist. If they are on the moist side you are ok to ride in a little bit cooler temps. If they are on the chalky side bump the main up just a cunt hair. Maybe put the needle clip down one spot as well. The pilot should usually be ok unless you had it as lean as it can be. Try seeing if it runs better on the bottom with the air screw turned in a turn or two. If so give it just a little bit more pilot.

Uhh........guys, I assure you they aren't just dipping parts in liquid N2. The parts are first brought down to -320 degrees below zero over a period of a day or even days. Then the temperature is slowly cycled to heat in the upper hundreds of degrees for the same period of time. The gas is dispersed in a very precice way and is nowhere near just dipping stuff in liquid N2. If you were to do a motor you need to dissassemble it entirely and remove seals and or gaskets so they dont crack in the extreme cold or melt/burn in the heat treating. Gotta google it, there is so much awesome stuff being done with this process.

Man, Zilla......... That is just the price you are gonna have to pay. Or just smoke a fat chunk o' meth and get to tearing that motor down. Otherwise you are just gonna have to sit there in the darkest corner of your hole with your little pud in your hands wondering " what could of been". The only outcome at this point is when you are taking your motor apart next year, you will be looking at pure carnage thinikin " Man, I bet if I cryotreated that, it would be in one piece." Lmao

Hey Snop, are those sleeves similar to the iron sleeves that Cam at Redline shows on his site? I am trying to put together something along the elusive lines of have your cake and eat it to. I dig the serval, but would like to build something in the area of that cub you show the dyno sheets. I just cant get any info on what guys are really doing to them as far as how you got the torque and still got a good high 90' s in power.

Really, no body willing to dish out the details? Cam, Snop, Andy.................

Those are pretty cool for a play setup. I bet they hold up decent. I would love a set to put on when we are just goofing off so I don't have to beat on my good race tires and studs.

Don't know why every one makes this so complicated. The tamers USED to be the hot ticket when they were the only blocky profile tire that would have a good base for several studs. NOW there is the Cheng Shin tire made SPECIFICALLY for holding studs. The rubber is optimised to be soft enough to give flex or cushion, yet firm enough to hold studs with out being brittle. There will always be a pioneer out there, but the tamers are junk! They throw studs, leak air, vibrate like mad, and just never hold up very long. F the tamers.

Really, looks like you got a reason to blow it up man.

The results from the process are almost infinate. Cryo treatment is used in many industries from tool and die to misc machine jobs. It makes metals stronger, provides better wear capabilities, helps with more consistant thermal expansion in pistons and cylinders, helps flexable parts like springs keep a consistant rate even under temperature and heavy use, etc. It is done by nascar teams, rally champs, top fuel all stars, even Military machine and arms production. I really wish there were more people who knew about the process. I would reccomend almost any metal part on any motor, machine, or weapon be put through cryo treatment. Alot of subaru guys look to the process for tranny parts after they get around 500 hp. There isn't much aftermarket for the internal tranny parts, and if there is it is expensive one off parts that cost thousands of dollars and usually a cryo treated oem part is able to take the same abuse. I will just list a part and talk briefly of the benefit Head/domes- better thermal expansion and cooling Cylinders-more wear resistant as well as better expansion with the piston also cools better Pistons/rings- same as cylinders Tranny/clutch parts- STRENGTH! as well as better wear capabilities Clutch springs- last longer and keep more consistant feel and pressure, less fade under temp Crank - Strength to take harshest punishment Bearings- longer life due to better strength and wear, and their supporting parts last longer Rotors- on for two seasons, barely looks like pads touch it The list goes on and on, check out the detailed info over at www.300below.com. I personaly have used 300 Below and they were fast. They had a discrepancy on price when they saw how much was in my lil ol banshee engine but they did go back to the price originally qouted in the shifter cart engine sheet. To do the entire motor will problably run about 400 now from them. However, I did find a guy in michigan who is from nascar country in north carolina, who is way cheaper, but the batch of parts needs to be bigger to make maximum bang for the buck.

I have cryotreated my entire motor last year and I am getting ready to do some more parts again this year. The thing is it takes alot of nitrogen, so many shops who do the process tend to have a minimum order size that they will run to make the cost up of the nitrogen. I only want to do some pistons and a head this time around and it would cost the same as if I do alot of parts. Usually the starting rate would be around $150 and I could problably squeeze in a tranny and clutch parts if any one would like to split the cost. It is the same process that WCR does to all their trannies. I am in michigan, so any locals interested would be a bonus. Check out the process @ www.300below.com

Loui Swan is the owner of Twister Crankshafts. He builds pretty bad ass toys and is the pioneer of tripple cylinder bikes. Twistercrankshaft.com There are alot of pictures on his site. Google his stuff and you will not need to look at any porn for a week afterwards. There is a long travel bike with a green body out of carbon fiber that Twister contributed to heavily and it is sick!

Those pj carbs have the actual alky conversion done? If so sell them, and get some pwk's or even strykers with the money. The pj's are an ok carb, just a little more finiky in weather and temp changes then most carbs. Not to mention if there is humidity, your day will definitely be less then stellar. I used to spend so much time playing with mine that I even had myself convinced that I liked to wrench on it as much as I like to ride it. But if you are bound and determined, start off with a 158 main, and work your way down. You may need to go as low as say........152. For the needle, you didn't say wich one you currently have in them. Just start the needle on the bottom clip and worked up. I actually got rid of the cgl needles that came in mine for some del needles and It helped tremendously. For a pilot, maybe a 58-55. Start bigger! I learned every thing I know now about jetting from mistakes. Expensive mistakes! Man I wish I knew about this site the first couple motors I destroyed as a kid. A child left alone with a built banshee will either become a wiz, or the biggest quitter you met. Good luck man.

Right on, I was hoping he would chime in. There are a few others as well that I would like to hear from. I just don't like to call shops and waste to much of their time asking them to school me on engine theory. Cam at Redline was way cool as well as John Stallworth at Jsr. Just trying to really get a deep understanding on what type of things guys are doing to cylinders to get the most from them. By the way J-madd that is one helluva stable of bikes you have.

Definitely talk to Brad at Tyson Racing. He does solid work. Plus he is a michigan guy and I am all about local business. It is nice to help the site sponsors, but us michigan folk are in a rut and it is a bonus any time I can do business in my own back yard.

Nobody familiar with this type of build. I know there used to be quite a few guys that would shave cubs from the bottom and run wsm pistons and use rtv or permatex instead of a base gasket to keep ports lower. Just trying to understand exactly what is being done and how it works.

Ahh man brooke, how are you? I seem to be in a bit of a perdicament on upgrades as well. I rebuilt the motor after I hydrolocked my motor at White Lake, and I was being nice to her till a hill climb ran my left bowl dry. So time to re do the motor. I was saving for a wild engine to run that kitty cub down, but about 1,500 in new bills killed that coffee can in the garage. Freakin bummer! But the chassis set up will definitely be re-done and some welding will be taking place in the next few weeks. I may be building some new arms, so if you are interested in a nice set of armadillo +2+1 arms let me know. Maybe a couple hundred for them and new tie rods. I think I have some extra length stainless brakelines in the garage that I would throw in. Brett

Man, it is so sick to see that our market is still providing fresh parts that WORK! No matter what your stance is on the best way to get the most overall tq/hp out of it, the new cylinder from calvin is absolutely killer. I understand that Calvin designed the cylinder to be the best suited to the "Majority" of the duner masses and that is understandable. It is just impossible to create a new cylinder every time someone finds a new riding style, and that is why it is imparitive that people on the customer end need to do the research on nailing their own combo. The way I see it, in a few more years it will be feasable to have a four stroke bottom end and an incredible top end charge, just let the fellas keep doing R&D and be patient. Not long till efi will be obtainable for every one in a box, and pipes will be even more precice then they already are. I can see the debate as to what is the best theory on how to get the serval to really shine. The thing is with the research I got from known builders , the cp cylinders fall off on top with excess compression. Wich means finding the happy spot with minimal trade off of torque for peak horse power will be a task in it self. Then there is the task of testing the carbs to find a good medium. After some calls, I understand that these cylinders don't really pull the rpm's on big carbs, and the smaller carbs are really helping the overrev. So Snop, I think you are on to something. As for the pipes, who cares! Pick your pipe for YOUR riding. Every one knows that almost every bike will pull harder with a set of shearer in frames over a set of FMF's, but the actual bike's duty may be more suited for some fmf's or pc's. Me personally, the shearers make more power, but at the cost of bottom end as well as cylinder scuffing if ran constantly in their favored rpm range. So I personally choose Rocket, CPI, or Trinity's. Re gear the sprocket so the bike is in their power and they kill it for MY riding.Although Snop, what do you think those Trinity pipes would do on there or maybe the shearer 2 to 1 pipe. Who knows, so many theories out there, but till they are tested, ran, and backed up in a repeatable result, they are just theories. I really don't think Andy has to defend his initial build either. What he did was prove just how much potential this cylinder has in it. Think about it. He practically cobbled some realatively dune friendly parts together and presto, a fairly sweet motor. We need to have an engine masters challenge, but only banshee hq version. Take the M&M serval package and work your magic. Then 30 days later meet at a known dyno for best overall average HP/Tq. Load up and hit the dunes. Get a known rider with no ties to any shop to make five passes on all the bikes. Make a chassis rule so the only variable will be the motor. Say... stock chassis and shocks to keep cost down and a plus 6 swinger. Put the same paddles and biffs on and you would one helluva close competition.

Wow! $255 for a Mattoon Machine lock up and a custom machined cover. That is a pretty good deal. Personally I run the slingshot from Driveline and it really doesn't need to be constantly adjusted if you read the directions real well. It helps you make a very solid determination as to where and how many weights to use from the get go so you really wont need to keep "tuning" the lock up.

I am not real sure you would actually gain power, very little if any. Infact, if you don't pay attention to the relation between the piston and the ports them selves there is potential to really kill the power. However, I definitley think it would up the rpm range in wich the bike makes it's power due to increased durations.

I would love to do a 485 cheetah, but those fags at trinity will never get my business again. I bought a set of pipes, paid for two day shipping, waited a month before they would give me my money back after I still had not recieved my pipes.

Calvin, thanks for being johnny on the spot. I definitely am glad you took the time to drop solid knowledge. I didn't mean for it to sound like your serval was a cub just chopped in a mill. What I meant was just how close the designs were together in design, yet how different the out put is. I am just trying to under stand exactly what is being done to the cylinders on outlaw tt/pikes peak bikes. I have briefly spoken with some pretty well known builders the concept of buying raw cast cylinders for larger stroke DM or Super Cubs, and actually cutting them down and adjusting the ports for the 4 mil. I know some builders have taken cubs and milled the base, ran no base gasket and moderate inframes and carbs for a bit more bottom, but they give up just a bit of the mega pull associated with a cub. I have seen one built and it ran, just looking for info on how they are doing it and if it is worth the effort.

Ak, not neccacarily looking for a big bore serval. I have read anything I could find.(love google) but what I am looking for is a motor with a useble power range similar to the serval, yet still put out more torque as well as upper 90's in hp. It would be similar to the motors that pikes peak builders have ran.