trickedcarbine

Max loads for the crank and tranny plus all the other tranny bearings. Get them from Tony at TDR. Do any shifting mod you can afford or do your self. Shift star, bearing on the detent from mull or shift pro, shift shaft mod, drum bearing, cut the tranny. Adjust the eccentric Put an extra half moon in the crank grooves and the spot in the tranny New clutch ball and pancake bearing, freshen up any dingy hardware. Address the clutch and it's needs. Check the forks

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=145086

Ha! Teuché my good man, teuché.

^ serval

Not good for the riding we do, but the R6/R1 shocks happen to be awesome on a +10 arm like the OP is using. A guy I know has an R1 shock on a +12 and it is quite different. OP, you can do a Lowering Link for cheap, R6/R1 shock for a couple more bones( I have a mint one if you are interested). The next cheap option is a warrior dog bone. If you were handy you could even try making a strut. After that it can get pricey. Custom length Marvin shaw, find a nice rebuilt stocker that has been set up for a 10/12" swinger, a used shock you have sent out and set up for you, aftermarket shock used or even new.

Nay

Pipes are out flowing stock jets. Is the air box totally stock? Try 260-280 main 1 clip richer, 27.5 pilot. It's getting cold enough in some places to need bigger jets

Is this Dave as in the last owner of the Rocket pipes? I guess that amount of timing is doable but its gonna need a dome change or maybe a better fuel.

The Amsoil synthetic auto trans fluid is awesome. Run it till it goes from red to brown then change it out. It will stink like a dirty hooker when it's ready to go.I had a case of B&M synthetic trick shift that was pretty good to but very short life span.

Some on the phone, but I just would rather have an idea of what to say over the phone so I don't waste to much of his time.

Man, such a bummer that a bunch of the guys that run these just aren't active on the forum much any more. Next inquiry: Would I be right in assuming an engine this size would be better off with the larger intake from the CR125? I am also curious as to whether or not I should do the big flange exhaust or just the regular banshee sized exhaust flange but run small flange/ big bore pipes?

+4, will be good bottom to mid, but it won't make the motor fight it self up top. The allure of the adjustable boxes is that you can wick up the timing for awesome bottom end-mid. Then as it comes in to the revs it actually starts to take timing out for easier over rev up top. Just a shame so many of the aftermarket stuff has reliability issues.

You running pump gas? The squish is on the WAY TIGHT side and cranking compression is a borderline indicator.

As big as you can afford + enough to rebuild it once or twice = a shit load of $$$$$$$$$ Seriously though, what ever you do, keep the compression down and timing modest.

Just because the factory made a new cylinder that performs the way it does doesn't make them the foremost tuners ever. That isn't an apples to apples comparison. The term "tuner" doesn't apply to the OEMs with multi million dollar budget. Tuner, refers to the individual who can take an existing platform and make it better.

^ those 18's are fine.

Haha good luck!

Pretty typical of banshees with port work. So now Jeff is doing welded auxiliary ports?

Haha, WHAT?

On that note. How many over seas 2 stroke builders are sending stuff to the USA?(by the way the TSS was a bust so it doesn't count) Ok, how many 2 stroke builders here are sending to Europe, UK, UAE, South America, Puerto Rico, Finland, Canada, etc..... Give Cam a handful of the Aprillas and a track with a GP rider and I bet those GP fellas will be sticker bombing fairings with Redline.

Once I built my 4 mil motors, I didn't quite have to use the clutch as much. I will say that my 4mm big bore stock cylinder wasn't as fast as my new passion motor but due to displacement alone it would come out of the tight stuff with a bit less effort. As for keeping it in the power I started to tune the clutch so that the lockup does most of the work.(toasting clutches though) Only problem is our tracks are almost always different so I hope to get enough info logged so that I will be able to pull up to a certain size track and know exactly what setup should be in the clutch. But not to get to far off, you are right. The bigger motor will definitely make riding far more effortless. As for having to much power, nah. Never. If your cub starts to blow the tires off, start messing with that lockup. There are things you can do that are a bit Un conventional that keep it in the rev but the tires won't blow off. Just takes a lot of work.

My buddy wants to do his roller first to. I think you would be better off to committing to the motor first. Remember, once the cylinders go out to a builder they won't be back for a while. Then use that time to get the chassis ready. Dunno, just my opinion though.

Yes.

Yeah, new from Louie. I guess I wonder how well he can massage them and was hoping someone has seen his personal stuff run.

Who knows, but I think I am open to having it done by someone else.