trickedcarbine

^ that. Might be worth getting a legit clymer manual to actually have in the garage

Sorry if you feel I was trying to be a dick.... But it wasn't supposed to come accross that way. I was just saying that you shouldn't be worried about re engineering the driveline as many people have already done that. There are parts available and and they don't require you to be a machinist. I didn't tell you to go blindly at it and instead I suggested a little research on what ha been done to improve the banshee driveline. Never did I try to discredit a slipper clutch or Cush drive. I know what your build is and I understand you are trying to keep the shock from blowing the single tire loose. I'm way in to ice racing and have done a lot of weird things when trying to keep a banshee from blowing tires loose and not chattering the tire when slowing So I get what you're intentions are. Lock up tuning would be your best start. It will be in a way more difficult because you don't have a monster engine trying to walk its way through the clutch. Most guys will say it's over kill, but those are the same guys that said 6 heavy springs were best a few years ago. You just have to think outside the box and really imagine what you want and when you want the clutch to do its thing and apply that to your application.

Just about any issue with the clutch/tranny has been solved on bikes upwards of 200+ HP. What you are asking isn't needed and it sounds like you are trying to re engineer something before even understanding what you are dealing with. The fact that you are hoping some cushioned sprocket would solve your problems is a bit out there but there are plenty of real world solutions you should take the time to research.

How about fitment on a -2 swinger with at least 20" tires?

Just email paypal to both threads here on BHQ and the one on blaster HQ

That^

Did an offset oval bike but it would take a feat of modern engineering to add width to just one side and keep the front end from doing whacky shit in the trails. Seems like a cool idear though. The braking design sounds trick too starwriter

That's why I was saying get an auto shift or push button shift and good cut tranny that way he doesn't have to clutch.

Clear powder, maybe take your time with clear engine enamel

That hood flows right into the red frame. Looks killer man.

Ok Patrick, thanks.....

Tough call for anything with a heel guard to clear 22" tires on a -2 swinger. There are those nerfs with heel guards on the Ebay Europe. But I wouldn't hold your breath on making that work

Push button.

Shit, why not just run a servo powered shifter. Like an air shifter but no air to run out of.

Black hoodie, 1 white with black/red T-shirt for sure. Possibly 1 blue T-shirt as well. All in XL. Any chance of the a blue Bella for the ladies?

So chariot makes this as a production unit then?

Have to agree. That is why the stiff OE spring is better on the shift pro. Especially on modded stars

^ yes!

I have had a lot of gear oil through my bike as I am sometimes slipping it out a bit differently then the drag guys. I actually set the bike up to come out of the turn so that it gets on to the pipe and also manage to keep it take enough to not blow the tires off. Needless to say, I burn down a lot of oil. Tree brands I find best are the Royal purple, Amsoil, and B&M. The latest is the Royal purple but I havn't got to actually race with it just ride so I'm still on the fence but i can vouch that it is smooth shifting and has taken some hours on a pretty stout motor with out needing a change. Gave it the ol stink finger test after 10 hours and it was still damn fresh. The Amsoil I have ran about anything they make through my bike. The Super Shift ATF , Severe Gear for motor cycles and ATV, synthetic gear lube, and Torque Drive all come to mind. The ATF super shift being the best bang for the buck. It shifted smooth and consistent with zero chatter or missed shifts. It was also nice to tune with. It allows slip with out any inconsistencies. The power sport synthetic gear box lube acted the same, however it was short lived and needed frequent changing. The Torque Drive is tough and lasts a long time. Great for a trail bike but it doesn't allow slip and will chatter if you force it to. The last was Severe gear, junk in a banshee. Just had a case of it laying around from my girl friends dad. He tried it in his triumph and hated it. So I took it and ran it but it had to be changed fast and never rode smooth or shifted well. The last was the B&M Trick Shift. Had a ton of it left over from a 700r4 build so it made its way in to the banshee. It handles heat well, shifts ok, allows slip, but it is short lifed in a banshee. Terrible price to.

Those are good pipes. Great mid/top performance.

Negative, if there is port work on the exhaust it will lower comp. so if someone has a stock motor and ports it the compression will be lower if dome/head work isn't done.

Only 2 sizes for the rear CST C826. The 18" you mentioned and the 20". The 18" would normally get 8x8 wheels but I've seen 8x9's. The guys I know running them like that tend to have the same belief that it makes the side wall not so spongy. Should be noted one of them is a rubber class champ and 250-330cc champ. For the fronts, you could even run stockers studded to get you going. There are a lot of guys running the hole shot where it has a flatter profile in the center lugs. When studding, please do your self a favor and search high and low for good stud patterns. Don't just shoot a screw in the middle of the lug. Also, 1" minimum for the rears. I've seen guys get away with 5/8 up front but I like 3/4".

Every shifting mod known to man. Maybe one of those back rests like the asphalt fellas run. Should keep you from flyin off the back. These things can be hard enough to hang to with 2 hands...

There are smaller valves , and less pressure is easier to control.

^this