trickedcarbine

Right. I get how the whole tranny functions but I still feel that every time one is in my hand I can think of a way for something on it to be better. Then I see an over ride or something that confirms it. Cam, do you think it's worth while to do any drum work on a stock cut tranny other then the bearing? I'm referring to possible chamfering on some areas and welding and machining others for better drum action or is that just over ride stuff?

New pedals for your rad valves is cheapest. But if it were me I'd just get the new VF4. My VF3 pedals were done so in turn I bought new 4's.

Talls are nice. They keep the ol' crusty ass covered when I'm working. I will get you my order set up as soon as this check from yesterday goes through

Nothing wrong with nerfs. They keep me out of the Kold Kutters for the most part and tend to keep other riders tires off me. I use them for different foot placement for better traction and it helps a ton

^this

There may not be a tomorrow! This is pure nail biting suspense.... Seriously STY, that sucks man.

Alba, the mounting tubes need to be at least 3/4 of the length of the peg surface. If they aren't, go sell them elsewhere. Seriously, get the input here and make a product you can stand behind. Otherwise.... Well I hear the folks at Rickey stator are looking for friends.

Gotcha Cam. I just ran this motor on my bench through the gears with a stock shaft and a modded one. Totally gotcha. Had the cases split to really see the shift drum in motion so it is pretty clear.

Would you be willing to explain it to this fella if he politely asked? Pretty please with a blow job on top? I too used to totally think it was the taller nubs on a stock unmodded star that made the extra travel in the shift shaft. But now that I'm thinking about it. The shaft doesn't ride on the star tips, it hooks up on those studs that come out the side of the star. I am currently working with a mull star and shift shaft that's modded and I have been wanting to try it with an unmodded shaft. (Mull star had different geometry)

Huh. No shit. It. Does.

OK, it's a little crazy. You gotta be a little nuts to want that, but it's a good thing

Spray, you would be ok with a good OEM crank trued and welded. If it were me I'd rebuild a stocker with 115 rods and true and weld it. The later of the two choices is near bullet proof but not quite as expensive as a new stroker crank.

When BigRed had that motor he did run it on small flange big bore pipes as he said it would not heat soak or longer duration rides.

Let us know what happens alba. I need a new set with a plate for the heel guard not nets like the newest AC. Kold Kutters can mess a fella up!

I am actually in your same shoes Apeik. I couldn't get mine to fire and went through the electrical over and over. Bike just wouldn't fire or throw spark when it should've. So I actually tore the whole thing down begging for backwards pistons or something stupid. Sure enough the crank was way out of phase and cracked welds. No more work from the local shop or Weisco cranks

Super gnarly!^

I just picture you saying that like one of the little rascals. Boot this cunt if the allegations are legit.

That is because Wayne was making claims based on his theories not real world testing. Do you have any idea how many cheetahs he had set up for that servo power valve before actually sorting out the first prototype? Or how many of those 90* firing rotation cranks he asked Stephan to have produced. It all sits unusable now.

Get the new one modded before you toss it in.

So...... Have you got to actually run a 150 hp motor? Because both the guys you just tried to insult have built and sold more big motors then they could count. Just sayin...... Seems like people keep asking about things and when they get an answer, it turns out that every one else is a retarted dick head who should just shut their mouth. Since they already know it all, why do they make the post then?

Yep

Whattya mean? I don't know shit about fluid!

You should be good on tranny life. Your not making major power and the bike is light. Just keep the eccentric adjusted so you don't have to stomp it in and out of gears and you should be ok on the shift forks which would be the weakest link. Have you thought about having the tranny cut? It will make it way smoother to shift and put it to the ground a bit less abruptly. Not talking like the drag guys either.

Check that the cable sheath ends are in all the way on the carb tops, the 2/1 split on the cable, and at the throttle

X2 on spring loaded basket Maybe peek around the RZ forums? There has been a few fellas to do total Ducati style dry clutch conversions.