trickedcarbine

It's good enough for them big sky scrapers, albeit not much to look at.

It's good enough for them big sky scrapers, albeit not much to look at.

yes, with a dunable. But not so much an in and out throttle chop. You just need to change the way you ride with them. As long as you're not under engine braking you are ok. Basically you would just chop the throttle at the shift so that the bike goes under the motors momentum. Occasionally blip it if cruising. I think builders mostly reccomend against them in trail bikes is because it is in the consumers best interest statistically to not run an over ride type tranny. First the builders are building motors for guys who aren't assembling their own stuff so obviously they aren't the type of guys to wanna keep messing with shift forks every season. On top of that most people have a hard time training them selves to ride one reliably.

PWM's?

post for free shit I never win Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

I've seen them both ways. Mine was gass filled metal o rings grooved in the cylinder and head with permatex. Then I moved to a copper gasket with the O Ring. I have also seen one that was just grooved on the head to take rubber o rings around the combustion chamber and permatex around the water jackets. Even seen stockers grooved entirely to take all the same O rings as a cool head. All that's old tech though

Awesome head if the domes were more available I'd say it was the best on the market.

Ouch.

Just get a shock spanner wrench. Or bend a Phillips

Wanna hear a funny story??? How many banshees do you think these guys at the dealer are touching these days? Not many! There are so many people getting pumped through these high pace training tech schools, but most of them are no more qualified then the average wrench head. I have 2 buddies that came from the MMI school and both have jobs at a dealer. They almost never touch two stroke shit anymore. One of them has yet to service a banshee but I bet has considered an expert at the shop. It's not about knowing how to re assemble the carb when you're done. It's knowing how to just wrench and figure things out as you go. Just do them one at a time so that the other is a reference. And make sure to take notes and photos with your phone if needed. The jets are easy. Pull the carbs. Unscrew the 4 bowl screws. Lift the bowl off and Viola, the main jet and pilot are staring you in the face. Swap them and seal the bowl up. Repeat on other carb and re install the carbs. Make sure to put slides back in correctly and that the choke tube is fresh and hooked up.

Both the regular Cub and Serval cub are from CP Industries as well as the Cheetah. I'll use the cub platform to elaborate first. The Cub was designed as a simpler more affordable way of getting the ultimate high RPM performance to run with the original Cheetah that is now highly over priced and typically has porting dome issues due to the fact that A company with not a lot of knowledge has been given exclusive rights to the Cheetah cylinder. Since the Cubs are more drag type specs a lot of people refer to them as "peaky" with that light switch power band that isn't quite optimal for street/track bike use. Enter the Serval Cub.... The serval was pretty identical to the Cub dimensionally however Calvin and his folks designed it with a touch different port layout so that it's a more usable power that comes on early and pushes pretty well in to the RPM's. Only heard a handful of guys say it's not enough top end charge but they are drag racing in the dunes. The Serval can be opened up a bit more with out loss on the bottom but it's just a touch more. However you can eventually tailor the motor more toward your liking with a little data logging and time if you want to change the power curve a bit. The benefit to the cub/serval cub platform is that you can literally buy everything and assemble it with no specialty tools or measuring. They can run fucking awesome out of the box. No need to trench cases for the crank and no need to bore the cases either. T With the cheetah, you will have the ultimate in power delivery as the PV's allow the motor to grunt and lug down low, yet once they open up the motor makes ridiculous topend like a cub would. Problem with this miricle motor is that you have to buy the kit from trinity for top dollar, then send it to a builder to have the ports cleaned up and new domes made for it. I know with a 421 you shouldn't have to bore the cases, but I have heard a time or two where the case bore needed a bit of clearancing to get the cylinder sleeve to drop in to the top case. This would be the best option as you can tune the PV's to your liking and have power everywhere. But it is a more expensive route.

Good luck on that. I let a buddy bolt my shearers on this weekend and that poor bastard had to cave and order a new show chrome set from fast. The used ones literally list for minutes to hours, then they're gone

They should be small bores. Unless maybe you hot lap motors 8-10 times it mike make that kind of heat, but a set of small bores would do it justice. Not sure on the difference but I know the cut off for big bore pipes is a bit different between CPI and Shearer

Seen quite a few RD's with banshees. Most of the bike crowd (RZ/RD guys) has had the Athena stuff pushed at them.... STAY AWAY! I bet if you spoke with Rodger at wicked or Stephan from TSS, they would both be telling you to go with the 421. Those guys spend a lot of time on the RD/RZ forums trying to keep the 2 wheel guys up to speed with what's out there now. The only two options if suggest for that would be a serval or cheetah. The cheetah would be the dominant choice if you chose to have a good builder do it but the serval you can pretty much bolt together your self with out any surprises. The serval will give you tons of usable power, it makes the RZ Motor with the YPVS obsolete. If you run it and decide it signs off a touch early for your taste you can send the cylinder out to be ported to your liking. Just pic someone who rides bikes as well as banshees so they will know and understand exactley what your asking for. As far as pipes, you can get nice pipes for road bikes from Rodger at wicked as he does these type of builds often now. They are also doing a unique injection system called PFI. I think you might benefit from a phone call over to wicked or blast through the RZ forums and see what they're up to.

Fucking neato idear JD!

^ that Why am I always agreeing with the concrete guy lately?

The 25 is the pilot, the 260 main is pretty standard. I wouldn't mess with either of the other two you found. Maybe bump the pilot to 27.5 and main up to a 280. Maybe give the needle a clip richer. The compression testers are kinda a pain to find a nice one. Not sure there would be any ATV specific one as they can test anything the end allows you to thread it into. Just hold a plug next to whatever adaptor you find to make sure it's close in size.

Strap wrench

I tighten and crimp as well. Best fix IMO

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=171964#entry1560057 Here's one for sale that Kevin did. It's claimed to meet the specs you were wondering about.

I would say brake cleaner but since it's on already I'll have to suggest that you squeeze some lube in the bead some how. Air it up well past the reccomend max pressure and start whacking it with a mallet.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=164219&page=1 Lots of photos of frame/motor grounds. Some are pretty clean looking.

Not a fan, but I hear Kevin herr at HJR has messed with them.

Yahtzee! I win....

I literally looked for the old thread from like a month ago and can't find it. Either way. JL just made one for a guy for way less then that and it was way fucking sweet!