trickedcarbine

Take the bike to whatever height is required to get the frame level yet give the swinger any where between 3-7* of angle. If the bike begins to just hook super aggressive to where you are lifting the front way up fix it with the clutch. In my opinion a chassis should be dialed to the point where it is violent enough to ruin parts or bog the motor. Then use the clutch to tame it out.

^money right there

That's what it looked like to me. Also, if those are at 14.5" it wouldn't cause any issues like what's going on

Alky would run cooler. Ditch those domes

Why would any one wanna do business with Ray? The basic analogy seems to be " He's a sheister, but if you go in person it's cool?" Do not buy from MotorCityATV or Minkia38. There are plenty of michigan folks on here who are willing to get you a frame for cheap and if you must find another parts salvage I would reccomend Larry Komisar of Komisar Motorsports. He is on eBay as lmfox1 I believe. But I believe Littlesteven just offered you a powdered frame for 100 bucks and that's quite a deal. Even if shipping were 100 wich it won't be, you would be money ahead.

Motors start to really fight them selves over 165 but depending on your riding more can be beneficial but I certainly wouldn't run a lot in something that gets wound out down log roads or a strung out quater mile asphalt bike

4 mil crank is relatively drop in as it doesn't require any case work. You should get the porting adjusted as well as custom domes to make it work. No spacer plate! Your stock carbs would power that motor for sure.

^ smart idear.

Lots of issues, Pull the carbs to give them a clean and rebuild Report back on what jets are in the carbs and we can get you started on whether or not it's close. Motor shutting down is more then likely a seizeure. Especially if the water pump went. You probably don't wanna hear it, but that motor needs a total rebuild at this point. But you don't have to go nuts. You should take it down to the cases and start out fresh regardless. No point in putting a new clutch and top end on a motor that's got a toasted low end

Easiest clue is when you look in th the ports and they still have traces of powder coat.

Best and affordable in the same sentence..... Hmmm. I guess the best of the junk is tusk.

You can actually see added gains with custom domes. I would go with the 22's if you want pump fuel. If you are serious about more power and are really gonna port it, do a stroker crank and custom domes at the same time. Other mods that you don't seem to have listed that could give you more would be upgrading the reeds, pipes, carbs, transmission and clutch upgrades.

Yeah, definitely would want the tranny done. At a minimum, have a machinist do every other dog, machine the drum for a bearing, and have all the bolt ons. Even with the sling shots. Both styles of lock up will add to the stress on the tranny.

The spacers are an old school way of doing things. It adds the extra 2mm. Now builders will adjust the port work for the stroke and cut custom domes to allow the piston top to come up out of the top of the bore and in to the head.Do the leak down. It'll probably be fishy at the plate if anything. If it were me though, after the leak down I'd tear the top end off and see if you can get it ported and have domes set up.

Degreaser on the crud and grime, Master formula to kick the chrome to a sexy luster. Mothers and Meguires are are just names now. It's like they don't even try anymore and just keep sticking the same shit in new bottles.

^that But hydro forming is really the easiest route if you can't get access to a press.

Depends on power. In MY OPINION......... I feel that if there is a little extra money, almost any bike can benefit from a lockup. Slingshots with a stock modded cover are pretty cheap. The benefit in higher powered motors is very noticeable slip reduction/elimination under WOT and the ability to tune the clutch for launch or slip out of turns for Trail/dune guys. My favorite thing about a lock up on a trail or dune bike is the ability to run way light springs and it lets it almost feel like a new honda 4 poke. My bike has a lock up, Barnett 3&3 springs, ASV lever, fresh cable, with a good basket and inner hub. People get on it and ask how the hell it even hooks the clutch up with a pull that light. But it works and it's nice to ride all day compared to 10 years ago where guys just stuck in the heaviest springs they could pull. Guys will say spend the money elsewhere if the bike ain't a drag bike but look at the GNCC riders or MotoX riders, they all have lots of dollars invested in clutches designed to make riding easier, not harness high HP.

Again, another thread where people ask for input on a hair brained idea when they are already set on going and doing it anyway, regardless of what people say.

Ridden both( both 421's ) and I guess the serval is more forgiving in the "trails". I guess I would rather have the RPM's for the more wide open riding listed, but it would really depend on what OP means by trails or dunes. There certainly is a difference depending on where you ride. Dunes in Oregon have a bunch of tight idiot holes and handlebar tight riding where dunes here in michigan can be wide open.

Reverse threads! Remember that....

These are pretty cool to. Used them a lot back when I was in the transmission business http://www.snapcrates.com/products/wooden-shipping-crates/

Just build a legit crate with a ratchet strap inside to lock the motor in.

Metal band saws do a nice job on thick heavy plates of polymer materials.

Op says duning, easy trails and sand drags, to me that all sounds like a cub would get it. Not sure why every one says serval? By easy trails, you mean nice and open?

Tell that pussy to kick the cancer right in the left nut.......