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trickedcarbine

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Everything posted by trickedcarbine

  1. Trick One, SON!
  2. Only thing worse then a trailer queen is a garage shelf queen.
  3. I'm sold in that. Problem is, it is beneficial, but at what cost/benefit ratio? I probably am not the best one to say that as I Cryo treat my stuff, use micro polishing and engine coatings. All these little nuance techniques can add up in a motor making them more efficient and reliable. Just a lot more money then guys may wanna spend on a little two cylinder motor I wouldn't say that these processes "MAKE" power so much as they "free up"a little bit of performance. Should also look I'm to the REM process as well as what's called ISO Blue
  4. Yeah you can start with tires and gearing changes. Depending whether or not you find a rigid or suspended set up maybe some suspension adjustments. Then, start looking at the lock up tuning stuff in the drag section It should also be noted that with that distance you will need to look in to a set up with a bit less timing and a not so crazy compression ratio. It may sound like a lot, but really all you do to make dome changes is pull the head shell and swap the inserts and torque it back down.
  5. ^ harsh but funny. Op, there are definitely gains to be had by porting the reed cage and adding good petals
  6. Called in an order today and it's already out the door. Jeff and Cody, you fellas are FAST!
  7. Many bikes in the for sale section that will motivate a big fella such as your self. Might have to buy a sand bike and change a few things though.
  8. There are so many things wrong with what you just said. It'll probably run but no where near fun. It sounds like you're already sure this is how you're running it any way so I'm not sure what you're asking. Because you need to put the cub in...... Haha
  9. Leaning toward DG? Maybe early LRD
  10. The cub is for you by far with the wide open roads. That's the type of stuff I ride in the summer and I definitely always want RPM's when on log roads or open fields by the oil rigs.
  11. Nice, so now ya gotta do the micro shot peen, micro polish, then Cryo before you even coat.....
  12. Mull is good stuff and Brandon Is usually helpful, but I think the banshee thing is secondary to their other manufacturing. OP, need an impeller now..... Chariot usually seems to have bad ass stuff for killer prices. Get it on eBay and you are supporting a sponsor.
  13. Op, if you can get the rockets at no more then 450, you win. But if you gotta pay more then that you are paying brand new pipe price and might as well get brand new shearers from Jeff.
  14. Limited quantity + hype = $$$$$ They are a bitchin pipe for trails if you have a more "aggressive/dune" type motor that you still want to lug around. I just find they have an early sign off point and that was supposed to be fixed with the R2....... Not convinced it was the right thing to do. I'm debating cutting mine up or not to switch stinger diameter and the end of the cone.
  15. Pink tacos...... Nom nom nom nom nom......
  16. Yeah ditch all that. If you wanna keep the air box you can buy what's called a Pro Flow kit. It will have a little Billit adaptor plate and a big k&n style filter. Get a clymers manual to help you navigate that thing. Once you have a reference on hand it's a lot less daunting. Then after your first time through it it is a cake walk.
  17. 40 thou off the head seems steep. Make an L shape with solder and get it in the cylinder at the edge of the dome area over the wrist pin and turn the motor over to smush the solder to the shape of the squish gap. It should between 45/65 thou. If that's ok, move on to getting it sealed up. If not get a new head gasket to get the desired squish band. The best way to get it sealed is to leave the base nuts on the cylinders loose. Step torque the head to the cylinders and then torque the jugs and head as an assembly at the base nuts. Last thought, what kind of head gasket are you having issues with?
  18. Mostly banshee builders doing the machine work on the tranny. If it were me I'd choose either of the Cams for the job. (Cam @ redline or Cam @ CamATV)
  19. That would be the wrong place to save a buck on a neat deal.
  20. I suppose that's how I would do mine, but most guys here aren't experienced enough to tackle that project right away or don't have all the dough at once
  21. Haha, Kevin......
  22. The cool head actually only lowers operating temp marginally, but it's best benefit is it's ability to allow easily swapped domes( cumbustion chamber).swapping domes changes compression as well as a few other factors. There are a lot of different builders who can make you a dome for any set up that will perform better then any shelf dome from pro design ever will. Welding the crank pins keeps the lobes from coming out of phase. Compression makes motors responsive and makes that torque feeling, but it is mean to parts and usually it's the crank that tells you it's unhappy. Tranny mods are for getting the bike to shift smooth and consistant. It's the difference between shifting an ol dodge compared to a Ferrari. There are little bolt on things like a shift shaft, shift star, detent arm, detent arm spring that can be tweaked to make the bike shift better. But the real benefit is when the cases get split and the trans clusters them selves are machined. There is a clutch less drag racing style or a much improved trail/Duner style of cut and both make for an incredible improvement.
  23. Propane comment: I personally have seen it on everything but 2 wheel machines, that includes sleds though. I don't think it's a proper comparison though as it isn't caustic on parts and it won't shatter crankshafts like nitro will. Footsteps comment: I know it's cliche to say don't be a follower, be a leader..... But in this situation being an innovator requires doing a little bit of the ol Cost/lifestyle living math. The top names have already done the footwork for running nitro and most have bailed as they know the cost to pay off ratio. No doubt it can work but if parts available aren't up to the task of running it reliably that means you literally have to be ready to throw parts at the motor almost every weekend. Nitro is diesel like and as an engineer you would have to be prepared to custom machine everything. Guess it boils down to this. In my opinion if you need to ask about getting it to work, it's more then likely over your head and this tells me you might no grasp the cost of the final solution to get it running reliably. If I'm wrong please prove me wrong.
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