odaen

do a search, there are many opinions from many people on the same subject. this time of year though, be prepared for a pretty healthy wait on getting your cylinders back. most builders are up to their necks in motors. if there is someone local, that's always my vote too so if you have a problem, you can go right to the source

there's MOTA and EngMod2T as well. I haven't used them, but have read quite a bit on them.....probably far more involved than the average 2 stroke porting dude would need best thing to do would be to read some tech articles online about porting. there are many free utilities that will calculate port heights and such as well. the programs that you buy take into consideration your head design, pipe design and such. it's definitely more involved than clicking a check box that indicates you are porting for T5's, a stock head, etc. Good luck :thumbsup:

Bought a motor from Matt Crooks.......dude was awesome. Best crate I've ever seen for a banshee motor, shipped it fast, just a great guy. :thumbsup:

Wes is GAY in the happy sense, and the sexual orientation sense as well. Why not call the person you bought them from? I'm sure he'd be more than happy to help out a customer.

only 1 LT250 that I thought was worth a shit.. Think this one dyno's at like 70HP with the stock cylinder. It's Cameron's personal bike, although he never rides it anymore. I think for 6k, you could load it up and take it home.

Pro's - Higher HP bikes it will extend your clutch life and stop any slippage at higher RPM's where power is made, bling factor (they look tits) Con's - For duning, you right foot will be out about an inch farther on the pegs, to clear the mod to the cover, your brake pedal has to be adjusted down, expensive (like $300'ish), kinda noisy too For anything less than about 80HP, I'd just stick with the stock setup unless you want the extra flash on the bike.

@ .040 over, you have a 65mm bore, which gives you 358.4cc

trick racing use to sell them for like $520 or something. Just call up your normal builder or parts dude and tell him you can get them for 520 from someone else, could they match the price.....

Twister, WK, Cascade, Dave Moore, Redline all in Oregon and can probably all True/Weld your crank. UPS ground is still next day as well. Or you could ship it to Kansas and tack on 3 days each way :thumbsup:

Yikes, PM sent!

You're thinking of Twister.... Tons of good choices in Oregon. I don't know of any builders in Washington other than Dan. Streamline might be in Vancouver.

Brad, you forgot to mention stickers and a boost bottle.

Just watch the For Sale section. There are TORS removed carbs on there cheaper than you can buy the kit yourself. If you do end up pulling your cylinders and getting them ported, may as well pull your crank and send it in for a true/weld, and a TZ bearing on the clutch side. Good luck, man. :thumbsup:

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http://www.sanddunesfrontier.com http://www.sanddunesfrontier.com/camping.htm There are 2 forest service campgrounds you can ride out of as well this time of year, Honeyman and Driftwood II. You reserve a spot online for those though. Personally, I'd recommend taking a day and driving about 25 miles south to Winchester Bay and/or an additional 20 miles to hit Coos Bay. All three areas have excellent riding. Hope you enjoy the trip and the weather cooperates. This time of year the sand can be really shitty and rough. Watch out for the razorbacks. :thumbsup:

Does it have the pancake bearing, or the stock setup? If it's a pancake bearing, I can see that backing off if you didn't put red lock-tite on it. Seems like mine only had a few threads holding that nut on, and I was worried about it backing off, but it held up. I couldn't imagine the stocker backing off. Seems like I ruined the bitch trying to get it off in the first place to put my pancake bearing in.

send me pics of the cases and what comes with the motor. also, could you pop the coolhead off and take a pic of the pistons in the cylinder so I know what bore the cylinders are on? if it's complete and has some bores left, consider it sold

Compression either with a coolhead and lower cc domes, or milling your stock head (much cheaper) Advance your timing with a ricky stator $35 plate VForce 3 reeds K&N Pod filters, unless you ride in the wet muddy environment Shitcan the stock sparkplug boots on the coil and put some aftermarket NGK's on (won't give you any HP, but will reduce headaches later) Make sure you jet your bike correctly. Pilot, needle, and main jet You could also have your stock carbs bored to 27.5mm for about $50-75 Once you've done all of that and realize how much more power you have, you will inevitably want more. At that point, come back and we'll give you some more advice :thumbsup:

FWIW, those aren't Lonestar A-arms. They look like Roll Design arms, which are even more expensive. If you take a pic from the top from the front so the plastic isn't hiding it, I could tell you for sure.

I'm 50/50 as of now. I'll know for sure next week :: Would be nice sucking back some suds with some of ya, and wes was nice enough to pickup a 450 in time for me to have something to ride. Kansas and Oklahoma are where all the hotties are anyway, right? :thumbsup:

well, you could either believe an alba rep, or about 99% of all builders who recommend VForce reeds. at some point, you'll probably find yourself going with one builder over and over for parts/service/etc. when they show you time and time again that their advice is golden, you'll start taking their word on things like this. a couple of years ago when I had questions about reeds, since there are so many different makes/models.....I found a dyno sheet from GPRacerX on planet sand that showed a dyno comparison of ported stockers with TDR carbon fiber petals, pyramids, 1dir G3's, VForce's, and a couple others. The VForce made more power everywhere on the curve than all of the others. Sometimes, there were significant differences. On top of that, my builder and tons of other respected builders all recommended the VForce's, seemed silly to question them and their experiences. Anyway, best of luck to ya.

I think a dyno provides more than that, even. People that have dyno's have most likely dyno'd tons and tons of bikes that are setup very similar to yours, so it's nice to have that historical data for reference as well. Now, comparing 2 different dynos is where things can get fuzzy. It was nice to open my runfile from my 4mm stock cylinder duner motor and compare to my 4mm cub on the same plot. I also compared it to 2 or 3 other identical motors to mine and they were all within a couple of HP of each other. If you get your bike dyno'd on a dynojet, get the runfile and save it to a CD or something somewhere. You can download the software from dynojet to look at your plots, so if you have other runs from a prior dyno session from the same shop, you have those to compare with each other. Yer motor should probably be close to 60HP, I'm guessing.....

I wish, dude. "The Man" has been kicking me when I'm down....so no deneros for fun stuff. ^^Bump for a good guy

I've heard nothing but great things about Chad@Holeshot's abilities. Think he use to port for JD back in the day, but not positive. His customer service and personal issues is all you seem to hear about him now though. Hope those rip for ya, helluva a deal if there were some bores left on them.

ain't that the fuckin truth.... :beer: