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I don't know personally. But I know that at some point, you gotta realize that your builder must be experienced enough to be able to give you good advice about your motor. If you don't trust what your builder is telling you, then it might be a good point to look elsewhere. The last thing a builder wants is for an unhappy customer to come back 3 weeks later wanting their money back, so he must feel pretty confident that it's an OK thing to do.

I think you misunderstood what I was trying to say. I was saying it wasn't jetting, because a bike will run even if the jetting is quite a ways off. Same with an air or compression leak, the bike will run, but just not to its potential.

That's probably about right. The 7% number is most likely just what they calculate the displacement increase to be. 4mm is about 7% of 54mm.

Hillshooting, I'd definitely run a link style and have your stock rear shock revalved for your weight and swingarm length. Personally, I look for gussets from the shock mount to the main tubes as well as down by the carrier (check out lonestar racing's website and you'll see what I mean with their standard swingarms). Some people pay a pile of money to shed any weight possible off the bike though, so it's really your call and preference. Myself, the last thing I wanna worry about is a mechanical failure doing 60+ MPH up a whoopy hill. Good luck, man.

I use the DID ERT non-o-ring chains, and have been happy. I just use that maxima chain wax on it at least 24 hours before I go riding so it's not all gummy and wet. But I only ride sand.

Stroking a motor is just putting in a crank with a longer stroke........yeah, increasing displacement. There are some easier formulas to use, but they are based on the following (.5 x bore)^2 x 3.14 x stroke x # of cylinders / 1000 stock stroke for a banshee is 54mm, so a 4mm crank is 58mm stroke and so on stock bore is 64mm for a banshee .020" is approximately .5mm, so a motor that is .020 over is 64.5mm bore

Err, hit send before I meant to. But I'd check the pickup like before mentioned. 9 degrees of advance should still allow the motor to start just fine. Good luck...

While I agree with leak-down testing your motor, if you have compression, fuel, and spark, it will at least run. There's something fundamentally wrong with your motor. Since you messed with the timing, that's where I'd start. Being off by even 4 jet sizes will still let the motor fire, it'll just run like shit.

Just make sure that the gas cap you are using flows enough air and you should be fine. Running your bike out of fuel can be disastrous fast, but it's awful nice to keep your reserve just in case.

This is probably the best thing to happen to HQ in some time. Would be nice to get some more builders on here and give the site some more credibility, experience, and alternatives. More and more people on HQ are building drag style bikes, so there is probably additional business for you here as well.

Well yer adding 2 in front and dropping 2 in the back, so I'm guessing it will be stock length, maybe plus or minus 1 or 2 links. I always bought a 120 link and cut it down to size. As for the X-Ring or O-Ring, I always ran a non O-Ring, so I can't really comment. I think the one I used was the DID-ERT model.

The best bet would be to call a couple of builders. I'd recommend trying to find someone local. You have a good start for components, but your clutch will need to be beefed up if you are gonna go with a 421, along with some other things here and there (TZ bearing on the clutch side of the crank, pancake clutch bearing, etc). Make sure in talking to some builders that they discuss other options, because going from a stock motor to a 421 with shearers is like stepping up from a Geo Metro to a Funny Car, and if it doesn't suit your riding style, you won't be too happy.

Pretty sure Nate McCoy probably has the most experience with them. Cameron at Redline has built at least one that I know of, but that was a couple of months back, and I haven't really talked to him lately. You'll need to buy a new head that is custom for the supercub cylinders.

I prolly won't pay for Planet Sand. That price seems 2x the typical price, and I'm already paying on 2 sites. As far as the bigger HP motors, I think it was the premier site for technical info. Whereas HQ is more a social thing with general info on the more common banshee setups. If they just wanted to weed out the dipshits, 10 dollar a year membership would do the trick.

Happy Birthday, man :thumbsup:

yeah, I like ol' Marty too. he always takes the field with a team you don't really want to play, no matter what their record. if the charges didn't have Rivers and Merriman, I'd have pulled for them to win that game. i just can't stand those 2 cocky fucks. additionally, the way they ditched Drew Brees was kinda screwy, so good ol' football Karma did its job, and brees is playing in the conference championship without them. i didn't see how the refs cost the eagles the game either, forgot who said that. the only thing that cost the eagles a trip to the championship game was a guy named McAllister. They just couldn't stop him the entire game.

The odds are good that the works shocks from Cascade are setup for the dunes. I'm sure they have different flavors for different weights as well. I think they are just the works steeler variety, but they polish some of them for some nice blinging sand machines.

Unplug your TORS module. It sits right in front of your fuel petcock mounted to your frame.

Haven't ridden a banshee on trails for a long long time, but rarely did I think to myself, man if I only had more peak horsepower. Most of the time, it was wishing I had some aftermarket shocks, different tires, etc to make the handling better.....and quite often better throttle response. But, that was tight wooded trails where sometimes, your tires rubbed as you went between 2 trees on the trail. There are definitely things you can do to a cub to make it develop torque typical to that of a trail or mx bike, but it definitely isn't the application it was designed for. Unless you are a serious duner that spends 90% of the time drag racing, or just a full time drag racer, a cub or cheetah is probably just way overkill and a display that you make too much money.

I'd check the alignment of your front and rear sprockets, play in the rear sprocket (either from the previously mentioned splines, or from the axle nut not being secure) and the overall condition of the teeth on your sprockets. Make sure you have the correct tension on the chain in the first place too. If your chain is slipping though, you're in for some possibly bad damage, so take care of it now.

I'm gonna try and make it this year. Will probably just fly to Kansas and camp out with WesW and guard the beer.

they are nitrogen filled.....I think they use nitrogen because it doesn't contain any moisture to corrode the internals it should be about 20 bucks or so to have them filled, but you'll definitely want to purge all of the compressed air out that you put in

I'd guess you are close with the 270 mains. My first stab at it would've probably been 260 and raise the needle a clip. It should make a very noticeable increase, but like others have mentioned, keep your eyes open for some pipes. I've bought chrome T5's that were in decent shape for 175, and some FMF Gnarlies for 100. It's well worth the money over the stock.

put the nut back on, but don't tighten it all the way down and smack that bitch with a huge sledge hammer they can be a real bastard to get out if the sleave inside is rusted to the bolt. you may need some heat and someone with an air wrench on the other side turning it as you smack it. Good luck

that'll do just fine :beer: