odaen

I seriously doubt there's much of a differnece between the T6 and T5 on a stock motor. Toomey doesn't even have plots of the T5's on their site anymore the last time I'd checked. Probably because there would be virtually no reason for a T5 owner to "upgrade" to the new T6. If I were in your shoes, I know without a doubt that I'd get the T5's. They are the industry standard per se. And they were the first of a million performance upgrades I'd ever done to my banshee. I can almost guarantee that after you put those T5's on and realize how much different your bike is, that you will follow a similar path. The T5 gives you that flexibility. Good luck :thumbsup:

everyone's got their own preference. they actually came on another bike I had bought, so I ran them a few times and really liked them. seemed like I was 50/50 at the hill or out duning, and that setup was just about perfect for what I did.

I had the same setup a couple of years back and ran a +4 with 21x11x8 10 paddle extremes. With 14-41 gearing, it seemed just about right.

I've always run the DID ERT non-oring chains, and they've held up just fine for me. I think they run about $50 for a 120 link one

I was bs'ing with Wes on the phone tonight talking about the dunes this weekend and he brought this up. Basically, he runs no gasket, and yamabonds the spacer, or whatever that grey shit is called. My brain is fried from being tired as shit. Either way, spacer plate or not, the bastard will run hard as long as the porting is setup for it. All motors should be leak-down tested after assembly, so it really shouldn't be an issue. I would be curious to see the pros/cons aside from the base gasket air leak. I've heard of builders putting epoxy in the cases if the transfer tunnels have been opened enough to keep the crankcase volume in check, so I wonder if adding the plate would be enough to warrant such a thing. Some builders just like zero deck height motors, I think I read something from Calvin Pollet about this. If I recall, he was in favor of having zero deck height. It is definitely more economical, since you can run your stock head or domes and not have to get them cut. Who knows? ::

the only spacer plate motor I've ever had my hands on, had the plate and 2 base gaskets. that motor was f'd from the get go though, so maybe they just didn't know any better. i had to take the plate out and get domes cut to get the port timings down from being ridiculous because it had been ported for a stock stroke.

Thanks. Allah willing, next summer I'll have an 11' camper sitting on it. :biggrin:

Yeah, if your builder setup the cylinders to be run with a plate, it's just not a matter of tossing the plate in the garbage. Your port timings will be 2mm plus a basegasket thickness lower than what they were setup for. Personally, I'd prefer to not run one. I've never read anything from a reputable builder about the pros/cons, other than having to run an extra base gasket and having another possible point of failure. With the spacer plate though, you do gain some slight crankcase volume. Whether that's good or bad probably is determined by a plethora of variables (stroke, port timing, etc).

That is hilarious.

Man, what you do you gotta be so condescending all of the time? The average HQ'er isn't a college graduate. They're kids with no money and limited education. That's why this forum exists, is to learn. If people are lacking knowledge, help them, don't belittle them. I don't get on here much anymore, but when I do, it seems like every post I read from you is a pedestal from which you mock others or their attempt to even learn. This site needs people with your knowledge. Just try to be more helpful with it, man :thumbsup:

Here's mine loaded up for labor day weekend at Florence...

I've had both. The CPI's are an excellent pipe for a dune ported motor, the best in my opinion. Spark plugs are easy to get to, just do it from the front like someone mentioned.

if you go to cascade-innovations.net they sell some slip on covers for stingers that will prevent future problems with outerwears. or, on my first 4mm, I used a huge zip tie to hold the pods close together, which gave clearance along the stingers. Either way worked great for me, and no more holes in the outerwears.

the timing advance will help, hopefully you are running race gas. but you are effectively using a set of drag cylinders that aren't really designed for your type of riding. There are things you can do to them to make them perform like you want, but I'm a huge advocate of a 4mm stock cylinder setup with a dune port. It's just a more usable type of power for this type of riding, and will beat most bikes you come across drag racing as well.

they make different o-rings for different pipes. the ones I used I got from my builder were a reddish brown color that are for CPI's I believe. I ran them in my shearers too, because the ones that came with those were smaller and wouldn't seal as good. call up a local builder, I'm sure he's got some in stock and can get you a set that will seal better.

do you have a title for it?

huh? you're not implying that with a stroker plate, your banshee was a 403, vs without a plate being a 380 are you?

damn steve, that's a sweet ass bike

Probably depends on the port job. I think they're both great pipes for stock cylinder bikes. I liked my CPI's on my stock cylinder bike, and shearers for the cub.

I'd set it up per their numbers and ride it. You'll definitely know if the front geometry is off when you ride it.

I think that's the common complaint with a degree key. Get yourself a ricky stator timing plate for $25, much more flexibility and durability. And the 2.1 HP ain't nothing to dawg on. It may only give you 2.1 peak HP, but the real gain is the torque in the mid range, where it takes a larger increase in torque to transfer into HP. For the $25, I don't think you can beat the gain. Quite a few people pay almost 10x that for vForce reeds, with probably somewhere around the same gains.

You crack me up, man. Seriously. The fact that we both like banshees is amazing to me.

Dave, Geesh, you make it sound like I need to drive out to Michigan to see a stock cylinder bike run. There are some good people in my area too, shit cam's even got a set of his 350 triple ports that I was looking at the other day that dyno'd around 95. How long were those motors running before lockouts even came out? Were they useless then? If you read my post again, I said if I were building a stock cylinder bike, it would be a sleeper or for nostalgia, and wouldn't want to run a lockout. I ran my 4mm cub that dyno'd over 100HP for half a season on my tusk clutch and stock basket, dyno'd it several times......no slip. I went to a lockup, because I got a good deal on it, and liked the bling factor, since my bike was caked with billet and chrome at the time.

Once you get around 100HP, it's a good idea. There are alternatives, like running a different basket and more plates, but I think most of those require some mods to the clutch cover too. I think the reason to build up a stock cylinder bike though is for the sleeper look, or the nostalgia factor. Both of those would be reason enough for me to look for an alternative. If you are building a stock stroke, stock cylinder motor, I think it would be pretty easy to elminate the need for the lockup honestly.

I'd probably keep my eye out for a set of good triple port cylinders, and if you were dead set on stock cylinders, you could try to kiss enough ass to have a builder do it for you. But, it will probably cost over a grand to get it done, and don't expect it any time soon.