Dinner

Bought this truck last weekend, then picked it up yesterday. So far it is stock except for a DSS Steering Stabilizer that was thrown on by the previous owner. Has a few things that need to be done to the body, but other than that it is a pretty clean truck. Going to be swapping parts from my dually over to this thing as time goes on. First thing will be a fully built transmission, then head studs and o-rings. Once I get those 2 things done then I'll start adding the fuel to it. But yea, here are a few pictures, enjoy. Didn't take any pictures of the passenger side since the sun made it too dark.

As Loco said, it is pretty hard for one piston to be moving up and down and the other staying stationary (unless for some reason there is no connecting rod??). Just like others have said, check your compression and make sure your carb slides are opening together. Next thing would be to make sure that you have good spark. After that, make sure you have a good supply of fuel getting through the carbs, reeds and into the cylinder. Check your fuel lines, jets for clogs and make sure your reeds are functioning properly. If those all check out, check your exhaust for clogs!!! I know from experience on this... My experience: Put my new motor together that I recently had ported, rebuild, head shaved, etc. Had new 33mm PWK's, new intake, new filters, new throttle cable, new plug wires and caps, the list goes on. Got everything back together and went to start it. After multiple kicks, the motor finally fired but only the left cylinder was running. No matter what I did, the right cylinder would only ping and tick every so often. I switched carbs, intake boots, reeds, filters, spark plug wires, everything. After the weekend was over from tearing it all back down and putting it back together. I said to a friend of mine "I wonder if there is something wrong with my pipes?" The next day I took my right side pipe off and look into it.....a fricken mouse nest!!!!! My pipes were laying around all winter while I was doing my rebuild. The little buggers made a nest in my Pro Circuits, once I put it all back together in the spring and went to run it. The exhaust pushed the nest into the very tip of the pipe(where the pipe meets the silencer tube). Talk about back pressure for that cylinder, wouldn't even fire! Cleaned my pipe out, low and behold the engine ran great!

I also agree Jeff is a good fella. I remember last year when I was ordering a crap load of parts from him we would share phone calls about the jets I need, etc. Those phone calls would then turn into what I do for a living, then the convos would turn into telling jokes. Real nice guy to deal with even on the phone. Being in Canada it makes it hard to meet people, but he came across hella nice and easy to ask questions. Hell he even called me at 11PM while I was under a truck at work :laugh:

As far as the Diesels go, 99 will not display trouble codes in the Odometer read out. If it is a gasser, I am not sure :ermm:

Check the connection at the back of the instrument panel first. Some trucks have them come loose and this will trigger the No Bus communication code. After you have done that (should actually unplug, check connections and plug back in nice and tight) Disconnect your batteries for minimum of 30 mins to drain off remaining charges and to reset your ECM/PCM and fault codes. Did you recently do work on the truck around the A-Pillar, under dash, etc? Also, if you have the overhead console, a broken/damaged wire (runs along driver A-Pillar) will cause "No Bus" as well.

Interesting read Tyler. It does make sense, hell maybe I should go lower mine from 6 to like 3, even that would make a difference (mine aren't cut).

Sorry to hear that Rider. It's hard when a friend is good one morning, then passes away later that day due to an accident. Good luck to you and your friends Family.

That's pretty true! It's like when talking on Windows Messenger or something like that. You could have a serious ass comment, be pissed off, etc. But as soon as you add LOL at the end of it. It becomes a joke, less serious, whatever. Like with threats, if you want people to think you are kidding (but you aren't), just add LOL at the end. :laugh:

Well I just read through the last 9 pages of this shit fit Katie, welcome to the HQ and hopefully you'll learn a great deal on here. Generally you can gather lots of great info on here and have some fun as well. (If this is someone else posing as "Katie", hopefully "Katie's and your other account are banned)

Yes, you will need to get new porting to match the 4 Mil...probably end up getting new cylinders so that the builder is able to port exactly to the 4 Mil. The dune port you have now, will probably not match the added stroke properly and performance would be down, IMO

Holy, congrats Rubberneck! Looks like a fun bike to play around on

Probably look pretty good as long as we had the accessories with black like he has done, maybe add some chrome too for stacks :cool: :laugh:

Nice lookin trucks. The paint job on that S-10 looks really good!

Legal drinking age for him in Ontario was 19 :laugh: Happy Birthday Adam, don't get too shit faced!!! :beer:

I'm outside of London (in the country)

Looks good! Need to get some longer vids of you running through the gears :biggrin: Your shee is almost the same size as the STI :laugh:

I'm around London, Ontario

I haven't seen ya on in awhile Cody. I haven't been playing much myself so I'm a little rusty :laugh: And yea I started my own clan awhile back. Mostly so that I could try out a different gun and so people will look at my clan profile/ratings and see that I "suck" :ninja:

Do you play often? What is your gamer tag?

Drag racing on pavement will be pretty hard on the splines, specially being as they are already getting worn out. I would keep an eye on them and see if they start to get worse the more you ride. Mine have had play in them since I bought it (about 4 years ago probably) and sometimes I'm not exactly easy on the rear end either, however I don't run a lot of pavement...JMO

I just always thought they held a greater volume of air/fuel mixture to help out when first snapping the throttle...guess not. Why do they call it a "boost" bottle if its purpose is to help dampen back pressure pulsation?

The man brings up a good point. The business should let you return them, especially being as they are new and have not been used. Call them up, tell your story and see what they say!

I will keep that in mind!

It is suppose to hold an increased volume of air inside the bottle, so when you snap the throttle from idle or any given RPM. The engine will pull that volume of air from the boost bottle into the cylinders...giving it more air which is suppose to help with a power increase.

I guess some people don't get sarcasm :shrug: And that report is good, should print some off and hand out to people :laugh: