Dinner

Right on rubberneck. I'm just at the beginning of modding out my old goat. Need a new Torque Converter before I go any farther and actually try to accelerate quickly,lol. Got a HT71 Series Super Stock comin' my way so it'll be neat to try that one out. Rhall, nice 02 you have yourself there! How do you like the Suncoast?

Get anything new and exciting for the ol' 24 Valve rubberbeck?

It's a nice looking truck. Depending on what gearing is in that truck (whether the previous owner changed it or not) then ya fuel mileage will probably go down. Personally if you have looked at it, all underneath, checked out the front end, drive line, axles, that sorta thing and you like it, then go for it!! Friend of mine has a truck like that just not lifted and it has treated him fine for a couple years now. Just putting it out there, not all Dodges fall apart and are pieces of shit.

That's about 450HP....right on!

1999 Dodge Ram 3500 24 Valve Cummins. Had it for 9 years now and still going strong, except the body,lol Right now it's getting some body work and engine work done. Once finished (well for now, before the winter) it will have: This truck is also my Daily Driver. New Sills New Cab Corners New Doors New Box New 3 Piece Exhaust Manifold New HTT Super Stock Turbo 4" to 6" Exhaust Stacks New 110Hp Injectors New Triple Disc Torque Converter Mods right now: Fuel Pressure, Boost Pressure, Exhaust Temperature and Tranny Temp Gauges Quadzilla XZT+ Goerend High Pressure Valve Body Airtex Lift Pump, mounted along frame rail

They have it out for both.

Around my area right now, it's going for about 1.149-1.209 per Litre...so about 4.50 per Gallon. Yea a 3 piece is on its way..should be here within the next few days hopefully. I'm not sure on the injectors I am going with yet, probably some sort of 100-150HP range. Still got to read up on some companies though....And as far as Turbo, I'm not going to be getting too crazy with mods I don't think (well for now ) so I'm thinking an HTB2-62...just have to decide whether I want the 12 or 14 cm housing :geek: I already have the Quad XZT+ but I'll probably end up with the Adrenaline, with a few other goodies. However, once I get these mods on, I won't be able to beat on the truck because I have to build up my tranny. Gonna take a bit being as I'm only a 19 year old teenager, but I'm hoping to have it mostly done by Winter :laugh: Rough Idea:

No, not rebuilding the engine....just modifying and checking to make sure things are within spec. Adjusted my valves tonight and removed the intake horn, grid heaters and moved the APPS out of the way. I will hopefully go get my sills tomorrow after school and at least get those home. Basically I am just doing body work (cab corners and sills), new exhaust manifold, new turbo, adjust valves, new injectors, new exhaust, get the box on and then paint! The truck will be sitting for a bit obviously being as I have all that crap on the go, but oh well! lol yea, it's been cracked for years..I just didn't know it was that bad. The top was cracked for awhile, so my dad had it welded. That lasted about 2 years and then it basically started to crack everywhere else after that. Figured I might as well change it being as the truck is sitting for body work.

Hey everyone, Haven't been around too much lately due to school for my apprenticeship, as well as our house electrical screwing up (wind storm brought tree down on wires and caused power surges through house) which blew up my never computer. So now that I have the computer up and running (which I lost all my fricken photoshop data, music, video, everything!!!) I got a few pictures of the truck as it sits right now. Box isn't on yet due to the cab corners and sills not being finished yet, but all in time.

Just as Loco is saying, the oil and shift shaft can stay in the engine when replacing the seal. I had my engine on a bench when I did mine so I was able to tip the engine over a bit. But basically just take a scriber or something along those lines, pry the old seal out. Lube up the new seal, slide it down along the shift shaft and use a socket to gentle tap it into place. Once fully seated then you are done!

Welcome to our obsession. Enjoy your stay and learn as much as you can from the HQ :beer:

Well I got the truck back on the road, brakes are working good now. Ended up replacing just the Master Cylinder as well as my main brake line from the front of the truck to the rear axle (about 12' long). I did have the frame cleaned up, hit it with a few coats of rust primer, then a thin coat of black paint for now. But it's all dirty since it rained yesterday and I live on a gravel road :laugh: But anyways, took a few pictures of the box as it sits right now, and my new Lift Pump and Skid Plate I made up. Underside: Rust sanded down, Entire underside primed, painted and a thin coat of rock guard. Front: Little bits of rust sanded down, sanded the entire front down (help the primer out). Laid down about 5 coats of primer, then about 4 coats of the silver paint I will be using. Passenger Side: Rust sanded down, then sanded the entire side (again for the primer). About 3 coats of primer on there so far so not done yet. New Lift Pump: Run fuel line from the Fuel Filter Housing, down along the frame to the pump, then from the pump to the fuel tank. Made up a skid plate a few days later to bolt up underneath the pump as well.

I haven't heard too many things with Hypertech and Diesels, however just as you said there are other programmers out there, that will do more. Quadzilla, Edge, Smarty, TST, list goes on. Personally I love Quads stuff, great customer service and once they get a few things sorted out in the Adrenaline, that will probably be my next toy.

I'm getting there :happy: Been busy trying to get my truck at least movable. Installed me aftermarket Lift Pump this morning along my frame so at least that is done now. Was talking to my Napa store this morning and they said the master cylinder should be here today around 1 (haven't checked yet) but the Hydrobooster isn't available :ermm: So I re-installed my Hydrobooster and hopefully I'll get my MC today on my way to work, get the MC installed tomorrow and start on the box again!

Got a bit more work done on the box for my truck as well as my truck itself. Didn't take any pictures of the box but here are a couple of the truck as it sits right now. The parts lying on the ground in the second picture are my Master Cylinder and Hydrobooster, which I will be changing out once my new parts show up :ermm: So right now the truck is unmovable, but ah well. My mud flaps are just sitting on the truck for now. I removed them when taking the flatbed apart, I'll re-attach them to the frame once the truck is movable.

Well I just finished taking off the Dually fenders (latest picture). Right now I'm working on the underside of the box, cleaning some rust, sanding, priming that sorta thing. Once I have it all primed, I'm going to hit it with some rust paint, then some sort of undercoating. After the underside is done, I'll start sanding the outside of the box down and get it ready for primer and paint. I'll probably patch some holes that are in the floor though before I go ahead with the paint and undercoating. And after I sandblast my frame, paint and undercoat that. Hopefully I'll be able to install the box and get it all lined up. Also going to install my after market Lift Pump along my frame rail once my flatbed is off as well being as it'll be easier to get to the fuel tank.

Hm?

:laugh: Yes I have a banshee that looks like yours, however I will never drive a Chevy. :ohmy: :biggrin: Quick updated picture from this morning:

I don't see any Chevy's in those pictures? :laugh: As shee4speed and XxMeltIcexX said, it will be going on my 99 Cummins:

Hey guys, Haven't been on much lately mostly due to work and what not. However this morning I finally got around to picking up the box I bought for my truck a few weeks ago. Cost me $600 CDN and came with the tailgate, chrome bumper and all the lights. It obviously isn't in perfect condition, but I wasn't going to buy a brand new box. Wreckers around my place wanted $1500+ for a used box that is in worse shape than this one, so I think I did pretty good. I'll be taking pictures of it as I work away on it more, but for now I only have a few. I was talking to Tyler earlier and I'll probably take his advice and do the body work on the box, do the body work on the cab and then paint the entire truck. Instead of just painting the box to match my cab. Removed some striping, plastic and glue. The dent in the front of the box is from when we were moving it from one truck, to my flat bed. Not that big of a deal, should be fairly easy to get somewhat smooth again.

We just said too different things, I think we are going confuse the man :ermm: With the pilot being 2-3 sizes off, and if he was able to get it started. It would either cut out so bad or bog so bad that he probably wouldn't be able to gain any RPM's. That's why I always thought and tuned my pilot first, that way I can at least be able to get up to the RPM's for tuning your needle and main.

If the compression is good, and you are getting fuel/air and spark. Sounds to me like it might be pilot jet related. Is the TORS still on the bike? Do you have the choke cross over tube in place? And what is your current jetting, mods, elevation, and air temp?

Well as far as the jets go and needle go in regards to carb performance, there is basically your pilot jet, air screw, needle and needle clip position, and your main jet. The pilot jet is for start up, idling and well 0-1/8 throttle. The pilot does not add fuel throughout the entire position of the throttle. The air screw is for fine tunning your pilot jet, whether you have to have it at 1/4 turn out or 1.5 turns out. Generally if you are all the way in with the air screw, you are too lean on the pilot. If you have the air screw out more than 2 turns, you are too rich on the pilot jet. The needle is the heart of your carbs performance. The needle begins to work from basically 1/8 throttle, and keeps working until a good 3/4 throttle. There are different style of tapers, lengths and diameters of needles, but you shouldn't have a problem with needles in stock carbs. Your needle clip position is what is important for top performance from 1/8 - 3/4 throttle. Depending on what your engine is "calling" for, you adjust your needle clip. The main jet is for 3/4 to WOT. As the needle comes up with the slide(closer you get to WOT). The needle taper gets smaller, thus allowing the fuel to run through the main jet and into the carb body. Now if you know your quad is in the ball park of jetting. People will usually tune the pilot first, getting it so it is the right size for start up, and also allows no bog off idle once the throttle is beginning to open up (also tune your air screw). Once that is in the right spot, put around and see if you feel the engine is boggy or cutting out from 1/8 to 3/4 throttle. Don't get running WOT, we aren't worried about the Main yet. A good way to tell if your needle clip position is wrong, is when you snap the throttle from 1/8. Does the engine cut out and not pull, or does it just bog? This will tell you whether you need to go up or down on the needle clip. Once you have it running good throughout those areas. Now you can do a WOT run, feel/listen to the engine and also do a plug chop on new plugs. Now this is all coming from my head, so if I'm wrong, correct me.

That is probably because your main is too small. When you start running out of fuel, your engine cuts out. What is your elevation and air temp? With those mods, especially being ported, etc. You should probably be at a good 300 or + Main, unless you are at a high altitude...

That was cool!