Dinner

For the last some odd years, I would have to say no one has come up to me while talking about quads, ordering parts, etc and mentioned the word YFZ 350. Most of the people on this site probably know that the actual name for it is a YFZ 350, but no ones uses that. Go out to the dunes, get talking with some 4 stroke guys and say oh yea well I ride a YFZ 350...they will probably just laugh at you and say its a 450. Everyone knows it as a Banshee, and what a Banshee is, so the YFZ350 is not necessary for most people. And you going on about how we are all 12 year olds that don't know anything. Just saying that statement in general and showing all these stupid pictures just goes to show what you are like. Just like any other quad out there, sure people know its full name, but no one gives a shit. "I ride a 660 Raptor", or I ride a 700 rapter...I ride a 450r, 450ER, I ride a YFZ, I ride a Banshee, I ride a 250r, I ride Tri-Z....list can go on....

:laugh: Thanks Cody

Wouldn't Kevin Bore/Hone the cylinders once he is done the porting?

Agreed, and July is nicer weather :cool: :laugh:

yea 15/41 gearing is fairly tall, especially if you are running 22 tires. Unless you do a lot of road/fire road riding, stuff like that, 22" rears with tall gearing can be a pain, IMO

Even though this is an old thread, I will have to agree with Mr Fouledout though. Even though this is a 6 year old post, which I don't care about. The Opinion of T5's and CPI's probably haven't changed much. CPI's are still more of a drag style oriented pipe vs the T5's.

It's easy to remove and install pipes, and no you do not have to remove the front plastics. I'm not sure what kind of pipes you have on there now. But basically remove the springs at the exhaust ports, remove all the bolts that hold your system into place (should be 14mm socket I believe for the bolts). Depending on what is easier for you, you can try to remove the silencer from the pipe first, or remove the pipe and then the silencer. People will generally turn the steering as well when they are removing the pipes (so if you are taking off the left hand pipe, turn the wheels to the right. This will move the tie rod out of the way and give you more room to remove the pipe). Might have to wiggle and pull the pipes around a bit too before they come off the exhaust ports. For installation, it's the opposite really. Install the pipes (should be o-rings inside the pipes already, if not you should install some). I then bolt the pipes into place (the hanger that is behind the shock/light bracket). Then I install the springs near the exhaust ports, install the silencers and then bolt the silencers down. And make sure you check your jetting once they are installed!

Check for a blockage in your exhaust...

Here's a quick pic:

Hmm, Well it's a couple of my friends that decided to go down that weekend...so I can't say too much,lol. If this is one of the only chances for me to hit the dunes for the first time, then I'll do er' up. Would be nice to meet all you guys, but maybe that'll have to wait until another day :laugh: Dave, I could probably figure out a way to mount them if I had to. Do you have any pics or anything of what they look like? I'm interested :thumbsup:

Kick Ass :cool: I hope to meet some of you guys in person, being as I only know most of you through making signatures :laugh: That sucks that you can't make it Shayne Are you sure you don't want to stop by for a day of sand riding??? :laugh: EDIT: Another thing I wanted to ask you guys is Spark Arrestors. I am running my Pro Circuits with the 304 Silencers. Are there any ways I could put some sparkies on there, or would I be better to buy some FMF's with spark arrestors or something along those lines?

Hey guys, So some friends and myself are planning on heading over to Silver Lake the weekend of July 1st-4th I think. A few of them have been there once before but I have never been, not even on sand. We are planning on just camping there, but still need to look into it more. Basically just wondering if any of you fellas will be there that weekend? :biggrin:

Sweet :cool:

lol Dave Jeff called me tonight around 11:20 at work,lol. In the middle of a Service on a truck and my phone starts ringing, like what the hell haha jk Jeff!!! I got 150-155 Mains, 50 Pilots and CEL Needles on the way to my house. So once I get those in (5-7 days) I will be back out jetting her up and see how shee runs. Thanks for the tips and general area for jets. I'm new to Keihins but its nice to learn :thumbsup:

Probably something to do with your pilot jet. What is your current jetting, style of carbs, mods, and temp/elevation?

Is there much difference between the Metal Idle screws and the stock plastics ones? And what about Taller Carb Top Adjusters? What do they do?

Thanks Guys, really appreciate it :thumbsup: Jeff is giving me a call later this afternoon so I will get some assorted jets from him. Figure I'll get some 150-155 Mains, 48-50 Pilot...being as I already have 52's. And a couple CEL Needles. I'm kinda worried right now though, when I was out puttin' around jetting it, when my needle was giving me a hard time shee was cutting out pretty bad in 1-4 throttle, or when you snapped the throttle. Just worried that I might have hurt the new engine...but then again top ends are cheap. Plugs are very brown though since my pilot and main are rich, so maybe nothing is hurt :ohmy:

Hmm, my carbs came with 52 pilots. Do you think I would be better off running those, over the 55's? 1000ft 20 degrees Celsius Aggressive Dune Port 33 PWK's K&N Pods Pro Circuit Pipes Boyesen Reeds with ported stock cages 140ish PSI for compression Stock Timing 112 Octane I'm def going to go lower on the main and try out a 155. I will also get some CEL needles and see how they treat me. Guys I won't be riding it much until I get better mains and a richer needle...don't want to blow it up :ermm:

Hey Guys, Being as I am running new carbs this year, 33 PWK's I'm not used to the jetting specs of Keihin's. Currently I am running a 160 Main and 55 Pilot, 6.0 Cut away and CGL Needle. My builder, Bob, at RB in Michigan recommended a CGM Needle. I will be getting 155 Mains, but since my local shop didn't have any, I went with 160's for now and well my top end is kinda poopy at the moment, won't rev out Question is, will an M needle be thicker in diameter than my current L needle? Right now I have needle clip on the lowest spot possible(richest spot) because anywhere else the motor cuts out due to lack of fuel. In my mind I think I should get a smaller diameter needle because even with 160 mains, I'm on the lowest clip, with 155's I might be cutting the engine out again :ermm:

Damn, that is a kick ass Banshee...colour scheme, chrome, engine, everything! Good luck on the sale Greg :thumbsup:

Yea I know,lol I just thought I could maybe try it for shits and giggles.

BR8ES or B8ES will be fine :thumbsup:

Hmm, it would be a little tricky moving the plate in a clockwise motion. Maybe what I will do for now, so I don't screw up my good condition stock plate is mount my good one on my engine. Take my old into work and see what I can do, just the heck of it,lol. And I appreciate your offer Dave, def could be a possibility for an adjustable timing plate for my engine :biggrin:

Hey Guys, So I'm hoping to have all my parts in from Jeff and another HQ Member this week. And being as my stock timing plate is cracked, I'm going to replace it with another stock timing plate I have sitting in my room. I was thinking about just drilling it out so that I could turn it to advance my timing to around +4, which is about as far as you can go on a stock plate I believe? So do any of you guys have a picture of a timing plate up close, or can tell me which way I would have to drill the holes so that it goes to +4 and not -4? Thanks :cool: Dinner

I dunno, I would think at least 330+ on the main. When I had Boyesen Reeds, K&N Filer W/0 Lid, PC Pipes I was running 310 or 320, can't quite remember, that was around 900ft...