Dinner

Same here :thumbsup: Went to local hardware store and bought a plastic container for like $16. Bought some cheap pillows and surround the entire engine with them. Closed the lids and drilled holes throughout them and zip tied the lids together. I probably used like 10 zip ties, but it worked well IMO.

Only thing that holds the sprocket hub on is the axle nuts...you have those removed right? Unless your splines are very rusted and the sprocket seized itself to the axle...hitting it with a rubber hammer like Banshe-eman should do the trick. Good Luck :thumbsup:

Hmm, your a ways up in Ontario.. What are you looking at getting done to your engine? So far I havn't seen too many big builders in Ontario, however, the place that I'm picking up my frame. The guy that I was talking to used to race his Banshee in MX. Said he had his motor done by some company (can't remember the name) because they are big on the RZ Bikes as well. If you Want I could ask him the next time I'm there (thursday) and see what he says?

Looks good! I painted mine gloss black 2 years ago, then silver last year. Who knows what it'll be this year :laugh: Did you use Krylon?

Yea, are you talking about having the seller check of "Gift" so the shipping is cheaper or whatever inthemail?

Agreed... 52 ponies out of FMF Pipes, Milled Head, and boost bottle..and that's it? You think they would want to at least put an air filter and reeds on it so it can breath better and get more of that fuel/air mixture once jetted correctly into the cylinders...but what the hell do I know :ermm: Next time you are at the dealer, ask this "expert" if he can port your cylinders :thumbsup: Sorry for all of us for being asses, but 52 ponies out of FMF Pipes and Milled stock head? Sorry, but no. Stock HP depending on the engine is around lets say 36-38 give or take. The milled head would bump up compression and low end pull, adds a couple ponies I think. Pipes would probably add another, what 4hp maybe? dajogejr and Snopczynski would have a better idea of the HP gains from a Stock Milled Head and FMF Pipes...but still. You would be looking at like 45hp with Milled head and Pipes...maybe not even 45HP. The Boost bottle wouldn't do anything for HP gains, thats why I left that out. Sounds to me like you and your dad should spend/upgrade your shee's yourself, cause clearly the dealership is just taking your money and giving you false Dyno sheets....

200 Mains I would think are too small for modified air filter. What do your plugs look like...Have you done a plug chop?

Wiesco's are a good piston/top end to run. A lot of people will have Wiesco for their top end and doubt there are hardly any problems/negatives about Wiesco. As 98_shee said, while you have it apart check your Crank out. Once you got the engine all checked out (maybe you want to do a leak down test as well) then you can move on to other areas. Take your carbs apart, check all the jetting for the mods that are on the bike, clean them really good and just generally check them over. Can also check the intake boots, make sure they are not torn or wrecked. You sound like you have some knowledge about Banshee/Banshee Engines so that is good for starters :geek: Welcome to the HQ :beer:

IMO you don't need to run those 35mm carbs with stock porting and mild mods. That is too much carb for the amount of air/fuel that is needed to run that motor. With the 35's on there, you are just wasting fuel, sure you could be jetted spot on but since the 35's move more air, you have to compensate for that. Drop back down to 28's even and you will notice a difference.

So you like to ride trails, don't get to high gears much, etc. So you will maybe want to get a pipe that comes on sooner than the T5's, Fatties, etc. I can't think of the names right now, but I know there are a few pipes out there that are set up for more low end oriented riding. If you wanted a good amount of low end, you could also try a 2 into 1 pipe....but those are for mainly tight trails, not wanting much top end power. Others will chime in about the low end pipes being as I can't remember the names of them :ermm:

Their not as bad as people think. Sure they can go through ball joints quicker, but I ran them for 4 years and didn't have a problem. If you plan on keeping the front suspension stock, I would say go for it. But if you plan on widening the front, etc I would suggest a-arm frame. Though you can find some aftermarket J-arms here and there...A-arm frames are easier to find arms for...

Hmm, what year was it the plugs all changed over? My 87 CDI has 2 square plugs, and it worked on another 87 wiring harness :ermm:

CDI will fail yes. I just had a fella I know off 3wheelerworld come to my place today to try out my CDI on his wife's Banshee (both 87's). He could not get spark on his wife's banshee, replaced some electrical parts, tested out the whole system and it was all coming up good, still wouldn't fire. Tried my CDI and shee fired right up. I would suggest seeing if there is someone close to you or even a shop that might let you borrow the CDI just to see if you get spark.

Hmmm, sounds to me like your TORS are really screwed up. Isn't the whole purpose of the TORS is to stop the engine if something like this happens? I'm not really sure what you can do to help the TORS situation out themselves. However I would suggest to you, take the TORS system off, install an idle kit and you will be happy.

My shee probably wont be ready by then, agh Guess I should have started my build up sooner

Oh ok, I got all excited that I might be able to get some more parts off you perhaps,lol. Oh and im still throwing around the idea of stock banshee a-arms or not, so if you have someone else that wants to purchase your a-arms, I wont be hurt if you sell them to that person :thumbsup: TTT

mmm with those mods, and depending on your elevation and air temperature. You will probably want your main at least a 300, and then go up from there. But being as the weather is cooler right now, you are probably looking at around 310-320 if air is mild temp and you are somewhat sea level. What do you spark plugs look like right now? How many turns are you air screws out?

Are you parting out a quad Simon, or are these just random parts laying around?

:laugh:

Is there a certain type of riding you do? That would help break down the question of which pipe would be best.

Will they affect performance enough to make his bike go from running crappy to running/jetted properly? That's all I'm wondering,lol. I understand that other silencers will flow different depending on the pulses of their own pipe, owell :geek:

Yes you can purchase a kit off some websites (i forget which ones) which will allow you to run a-arms on your j-arm frame.

The only difference between the two are the "BR" plug is suppose to help with resistance of electrical noise I believe (the R in BR stand for Resistor/Resisted). They are suppose to be better in vehicles so that you don't hear the electrical noise through the radio, etc. So no their isn't much difference between the two other than what I mentioned. You will be safe with either spark plug :thumbsup:

Maybe you should actually take apart your carbs, check your jetting, get the numbers on the main at least and do a little research. Trying to help your jetting out by going through different silencers is well pointless in my opinion. The jetting could have not even been adjusted for the pipes and the reason it is running shitty is because the damage is already done...that is only a possibility, not saying that is the reason. Fiddling with everything else, other than the jetting itself trying to get the jetting perfect is like changing your plugs so your jetting is better... You say you switched from stock silencers to the toomey's and your Banshee ran better? Maybe it's just me, but do silencers actually affect that much?(snopczynski maybe you can help me,lol)

You shouldn't have to re-jet if you change silencers. I don't think silencers do all that much for performance do they? But then again I suppose aftermarket Silencers will flow better than the stock silencers?, maybe?