dajogejr

http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/ne...ore_dept_id=168

Compared to what you have, all top end. CPI have a better overall power output compared to some of the other drag style pipes.

Word. And it's readily available.

I've used 3's on my 4 mil and now my 10 mil. 4 years old now, still going, LOTS of race fuel and methanol though them. Chariot offers money back guarantee...hit him up on his cages and reeds.

Saw these on Ebay the other day...looks like a nice and well thought out product. Nice work Brandon.

IMO, you're wasting your money on a Dyna before porting on your motor. A proper ignition curve setup might give you 5 to 10% increase....and that's a stretch. Porting can easily double the power output of your motor. Easily.

By no means are they machinist quality down to .000001. For measuring things like float height, metering rod length, squish, drill indexes, etc., they are more than adequate.

That is correct. A plate is a static advance across the RPMs. The CDI, stock or otherwise, controls the curve. Realistically, you want more timing in the mid and bottom...and less up top for more overrev and peak RPMs. When I had my Dyna, I used all the curves AND 8 on my plate....

If you're doing the compression test correctly, and with a good, quality tester...yes, tear down time.

Fine point about the fasest bikes Snop, fine point indeed. May I counter... I had one on my 4 mil cub, it was setup as a duner. In the dunes or at the track, I couldn't tell a difference in racing or by time slips one curve from another...and I'm talking about the factory curves out of the box, never programmed. I just think porting should come first, it doesn't sound like this guy has any....

Yes. Without them...nothing holds the VForce 3 in place. I agree with fouled out...if you have larger square holes in your intake, get the cascade stuffers. If you have smaller, stockish holes for your intake...there's not much point.

Some of the fastest and best running bikes in the country use OEM CDI, Coil and just throw on a timing plate. The dyna CDI out of the box is ok. Unless you plan on spending another few hundred for a cable and software for a laptop, then dyno time...I think a dyna CDI is worthless. I had one, I'm back on a stock CDI now. A dyna has a lot of potential if you have the time and needs for one. Tach output, different curves you can program (Nitrous, alky, gas, etc.), stutter box output....etc. But just slapping one on vs. buying a 50 dollar chariot timing plate, I'll take the plate and save the rest towards a solid port job. If you plan on removing the flywheel, you'll have to buy a thread in puller which is 10 to 15 bucks...and I use an impact and red loctite on the flywheel nut upon reassembly.

I misread his first post. I thought this was a 4 mil stroker, in which 21 cc domes would up the compression significantly....my bad on the read. With a mid 50s squish and 21cc domes on a stock stroke motor with only 4 degrees of timing, I agree. That should run on pump gas. If the motor is sealed, clearances are within spec, and the reeds look fine...I'd start looking at an electrical issue.

Depends on how deep the scar is. If you can hang your finger nail on it...too deep. You can always throw a ball hone through it (be sure to use solvent, WD40, Liquid wrench, PB Blaster) on the hone and see if it comes out. As said, Jeff will point you in the right direction. Worst case...you have to send the cylinder off to have it stripped and replated, it's a few hundred bucks. As said, a set of micrometers from Harbor Freight (25 bucks) can tell you the ID of the carbs.

A compression test will not tell you of a leaking base gasket. A leak down/vaccuum test will.

How do you go from a .042 to .056? If it's .056 on both sides, squish is fine. A little loose for some's taste...but, fine. Raise the octane, get race fuel...and richen up the jetting.

Compression test on both sides. If that's fine...figure out if a carb is plugged up, if one side is not getting spark, etc.

Pull the head off anyways. By what he described, he'll see a real shiny plug when he pulls it out.

It felt lean on the bottom but you rode it for an hour anyways? :shoothead: Start by pulling the spark plugs out, if you see aluminum, pull the head off.

He wants to make his shed faster Jeff...what do you guys do to port and polish a shed? Porting BY FAR over a big bore kit.

Not to be a smart ass...but do you think the extra bottom end is from having a motor rebuilt...not just intakes? :wink:

Dittto. If I ever decide to put NOS on my bike, I'll give Chariot intakes a try....everything I've gotten from them has been top notch.

Take several measurements. .014 different in left to right cylinder, something is wrong if you're doing the squish properly. I've had mine differ by .001 to .002....but .014? Something isn't right. You MUST be sure you are sliding the solder in left to right, NOT front to back. If you smash it with the intake or exhaust side of the piston you'll get a faulty reading due to piston rock. The piston can't rock side to side....

Set the timing at 7 or 8. You can still read heat on race fuel....

I bet if you slam through some whoops (Dunes) it might cause an issue.... There is a chance that it'll work just fine, as in your case. But if I'm cleaning out a bike on the line and it jumps into gear...or I'm making a pass and it jumps gears, there goes that race. I'd rather stick to a stock un-modded shift star.