dajogejr

Since you already have it...don't. I wouldn't pay much for the bearing mod if I knew I was getting an override...but, use it since you have it.

Please check it. It should be in a .045 range or so, that's inches by the way, not mm. .2 anything and it won't run for crap, if it's .2 something millimeters, the pistons will be smacking the head. You need to get an accurate measurement, not go from memory, this is critical.

D'oh...I thought something looked wrong when I typed that in...

It'll jump gears.

Mine is as well.

fasterthanyou (aka 1700 Camaro) and I have been talking about this back and forth for a while. The serious street guys use multistage type clutches that allow slippage out of the hole that lock up and apply pressure further down the track. This technology is starting to cross over into the dirt/sand crowd. There are several home grown type clutch systems guys use. I think you'll see some public production versions in the near future....as they work the bugs out. I don't think you're quite at that stage in the game yet. But even on dirt...or most other forms of racing using a manual clutch and gears, it's hard to train yourself not to just dump it and run...gotta feather it out...for now.

1.21 jiggawatts. I later on added a Mr. Fusion because you can't just run down to your local grocery store to buy Plutonium.

Before Chariot made a nice billet plate, you had only three choices. 2 expensive plates made by Trinity (Which I personally like but won't pay for) that moved the pickup coil itself or ProDesign, a billet plate. Or a cheap, cast Ricky Stator timing plate. I didn't want to pay 100 for a PD billet plate, so a 35 dollar RS plate was an easy choice. His stators SUCK big time...but his plate is ok. Now with a nice billet option for 15 bucks more...I'll take my chariot plate any day of the week. I keep my backup/spare stator on my old RS timing plate for an easy swap if needed at the track, but going forward I'll stick to a nice billet Chariot plate. Bumping the timing a few degrees along with a little bump in compression always yields for a nice kick in the pants you can feel but not hurt the wallet too bad.

Once you go with a nice roundhouse carrier, you'll wonder why you ever messed around with that stock junk again... Doesn't Tim (AZ Customs) make swingarms too? Hit him up....

I can get my drum cut and have a bearing installed on the end. I really contemplated it on my last teardown over the winter....but with an override, I've never had a shifting problem. I Understand...it's a drag race thing....the override that is. I think the Yakkey shift drum had the bearing if I'm not mistaken. Removing dogs from your gears (every other) can help with shifting as well, but that's not something you do at home in a vice with an angle grinder...you need the right machine to do that. If there is one thing the Honda guys have that we don't, it's nice and easy shifting bikes out of the crate. I used to cut my own shift star for years. But you can't run a cut shift star on an override...

Slip the clutch out more. Don't dump it.

With those carbs and pipes....9500 is about what I'd expect. The pipes, more so than carbs...are holding it back. When you go for a WOT run, what do your plugs look like? How much compression does it have? How much timing are you running?

I use .065 solder with a resin core, it smashes down easier.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

No. If you are backing a plug out, you need to know this information, simply adding octane may not solve the issue. As said, porting can change the cranking compression, but the true need from octane comes from compression ratio... Checking the squish and cranking compression is where you need to start. You could have 150 PSI cranking compression...but have a .020 squish and it will cause problems. Every motor is different, so you need to know this info.

You take a piece of solder. You bend it and place it through the spark plug hole and make sure it lines up left to right if you're sitting on the bike. You push the kick starter down by hand. It smashes the solder, and you use a micrometer to measure how thick the solder is (how much it's squished) That will tell you how close the head is to the combustion band in thickness.

PM me your email address. Send me some pictures...I'd like to see a few pictures of the cylinders. I've had cubs break off the very bottom from a throw rod and never effect performance.

Hit up 87sheerips. He's a site sponsor, makes hide a ways for keys, and the sickest grilles out. He is JD's customs. Support those that support the site.

Measure your squish please...need to know that first and foremost.

Yep..it is a beautiful frame. But... We have rules posted and stickied too... List a price. If you want to take offers, put it on ebay....

Try another flywheel, you shouldn't hear anything when you shake it.

No...I was just saying that for reference... If it was a methanol bike and he was running a 160ish main jet, we'd be having a whole new conversation with real cool pictures... :biggrin:

We run 55 to 60 pilots in our alky bikes. Which, as most know...take twice as much fuel as a gas bike.

Gotcha...thank you... I read they ran out of money (1 billion) in the first few days and congress set aside another 2 billion to keep the program going.

Ditto... I thought the whole cash for clunkers deal was to get gas guzzlers off the road and replace them with more fuel efficient cars. Are trucks included in this deal?