dajogejr

That's a smoking deal on spindle mounts shipped. Jon @ Sandtoyz is always good peeps.

Assuming you're running PWKs... http://www.carbparts.com/keihin/needles_tuning/pj.htm

Please tell me you don't think your buddy can beat him on his DS650 purely because the type of pipes he has on his bike? There are so many variables there...I can't begin to count. Tighter trails, slower stuff, PC. Open dune riding, faster trails, etc., I say T5.

I've run both. I can't say enough good about both of their customer service. They are both top notch. I currently run a Chariot Head for these reasons: Less Orings, nicer looking (total opinion on that one) and to support a local MI guy as well. I like the "cheetah" type raised center, I like the fact you get brass washers and nice, HD Chrome 14mm head nuts. Here's something that Noss can do that Chariot does not, cut domes. Chariot carries a bunch of stuff other than the heads as well. I can tell you the chrome is very, very nice....and a few of my buddies have the anodized heads. Very nice as well. I've had my Charoit head off a few times, no issues with the orings falling out, then again I've learned to stretch them just a hair and use RTV to keep them seated.

I'd start with post 5, move them all to a new thread labeled Billet Bowls Leaking, but keep the response from Chariot in the original thread (Post number 8)

I wouldn't caveman a crank bearing off. I'd take it to a shop with a press...make it easy on yourself.

I thought Torchworks went out of business...but I'm not 100% certain on that. If they have a current website, I sure can't locate it easily.... I believe fouledout421 has a torch works, I think....maybe he'll have a line on them.

That's where I would put them. Guys...not trying to be a jerk...think it might be time to take this question elsewhere instead of adding on to Chariot's thread? If Jerry doesn't mind, so be it...even though this is not a for sale ad, it is a Product thread, not a technical thread. Just a thought...

Steel is cheaper, more readily available... Because I have a Honda 4 bolt sprocket hub on this and my last drag axle, I'm limited to what sprockets I can buy, anything larger than a 40 or 41 and I have to buy aluminum. I wouldn't use aluminum on the back of a trail bike that'll get beat up, rocks, mud, etc....but a aluminum on the back of a drag bike that runs groomed tracks is just fine.

You can keep sidewinder and their warranty. I use Sprocket Specialist aluminum on the back. Only because I have to. Tons of passes and abuse, they still look good. For those of you that don't think aluminum will hold up to a drag bike....I've got proof that's an incorrect statement. Steel is cheaper, however....

I'd like to hear all the specs on this 400EX that does low 4s in 300. I AM NOT saying it can't be done. It probably took 5 times the amount of money to get it there than it would a banshee. It takes a ton of cash to get a 450 based bike to low 4s....a 400EX? I'd have to remortgage the house....

A dunable override is this. Use the clutch to get it out of the hole, after you launch, full throttle upshifts WITHOUT pulling the clutch in. To downshift, you still need the clutch. Some will say you don't have to use the clutch to downshift. I will tell you that you should, it will eat the tranny downshifting without the clutch.... You can ride it like a normal trans. You should not backload it excessively at high RPMs (let off the gas at high RPMs without pulling in the clutch) Backloading at high RPMs will not break it, but it will wear out the shift forks earlier....

Courtesy of our very own Tedders....

Somebody call the Police...those cylinders have been RAPED... I didn't know Stevie Wonder and Ray Charles went into the porting business...

Ted...you should have my email...I'll post 'em up. I'll PM you the digits anywho...

Stock Part Number NGK Spark plug cap 8031 LB05E Clip the end off your current wires.

That would be your brain on drugs.... Looks good, one day...I'm gonna have to pick one up...

I bet that bike feels like it has 75 HP but smokes along like it has 130HP. I'd love to ride that bike, I bet it's smooth as butter and torquey as a tractor...

No way a gas bike at 5000 feet needs that big of a main. IF the bike has been tested for leaks/seal...you have an electrical problem. Check your grounds, wiring harness, kill switch. I'd bet...even though your stator checked out, it's bad. And/or you need to replace the plug end caps. Not clean them...replace them. Did you leak down test that motor before you fired it? Did you check squish, etc? From your response to FAST Jeff, you just bought parts and assembled it yourself. Leak down test it. With an air leak, you can replace every ignition component as well as try every jet from a 200 to a 400 and it won't make a difference. There are some simple tests to do on a motor before you ever fire it. 1. Leak down/vaccum test it. tests all gaskets and seals internally. 2. Squish test it to make sure the piston to head clearance is ok. 3. Compression test. Cold. With a good gauge that has threads on the tester as long as the spark plug itself. IMO...and I've built/troubleshot plenty of motors myself, without checking these three things first, you're wasting time with ignition and jetting....and I say that because I was the one wasting my time...learning the hard way.

Centrifugal force. The more RPMs....the more pressure created by the lockup. Just coming out of the hole is the effect of your spring pressure....

The lockup spins anytime the motor is running, in or out of gear, clutch pulled in or not. Take a look at a bike with a clear lexan window sometime...

What do they squish out at?

Pay me 2 million to wear a shit, beat someone's ass silly....I don't give a fuck what shirt you wear.... :0

Measure the cc of both. The problem is...it will not be accurate. Because they are recessed/cut for a 2mm stroker, you can't account for that with normal measuring. To measure cc's, get a piece of plexiglass larger than the dome. Use some grease and seal the dome to the plexiglass, drill a hole in the middle of the plexiglass, to add fluid. Put a spark plug in, use a graduated syringe, and fill the domes. One should be 1 cc more/less than the other. Again, the cc number will be off because they're cut for the 4 mil crank, but one should be larger than the other. My guess is, if you're doing the compression test properly and with a known, working gauge, they're the same cc, just different chamber design giving you the impression one is larger than the other.

No. You're at the limit of what the gear set/design is set to handle as well. These bikes have 35 ish HP stock. When you double/triple/quaddruple that, you see the limits of factory OEM design. On anything, just because the clutch is disengaged doesn't mean it'll shift.