dajogejr

Not to mention 56 pilots...it's 50, 52, 55, 58 and 60.... I agree, I think the jetting is too rich, however...safely rich and if you feel it's running good, leave it. I would of course do a WOT plug check just to be sure....

I'll be at Bob's the 15th as well. This weekend I'll be at Port Huron, bringing Rich's daughters gas 350 dragger...told him I'd help tune it in. There was I'd say 10 to 15 ATVs there last Saturday, I got a TON of passes in. Like 20 to 25 I'd have to guess.

I guess anything is possible, I know you won't see 3 tenths in 300 foot, but pavement....never know. It is a lot less rotating mass. With any drag axle, you're also getting more adjustability for rear width. You want the rear tires sucked under neath you for traction. The trade off is stability....

If you're just looking at needing fresh nikasil, that's a good deal. If they're broken up pretty bad....hmmm. I've seen Millenium fix some pretty bad cylinders, never more than 500 for fixing them and plating them. But at 750, you're not far off from a brand new set...unless the cylinder has some extensive porting on it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...sQ5fAccessories I KNOW the picture only shows part of the tool. I promise you, it's all there. Bob is a great guy, and I've recommended his kit to a TON of people, not one issue yet....

All the permatex black, blue, high temp red and black that I've ever used. It will say on the package when you buy it. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotiv...e_Sealant_b.htm http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotiv...o_1_Sealant.htm http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotiv...nt_Dressing.htm

Two reasons... Alcohol Boredom Damn that was funny, the explosion was the icing on the cake.

Yep...paid about 100 bucks here to ship a set of Maier front and rear, fronts where cut. I'll NEVER sell plastic again unless the buyer wants to shell out 100 for it. Good luck..put it up on Craigslist!

Put a nice 4 mil in that chassis for the ultimate duner!! That is one clean chassis, good luck with the sale!

That was my next step if the coil was fine. If the flywheel has broken magnets inside...YES...that could very well be it. Here's an example. This was a dyno pull when I finally got my 4 mil cub back together a few years ago, all sealed up. The crap run was with a POS RickyStator flywheel that was a few months old. The good run is with a good used OEM flywheel. You can see how bad it broke up with a bad flywheel. The graph don't lie.

Leave the pickup at .015 to .018. Have you messed with the coil at all? Remove the plug caps, trim the wire ends back 1/2 inch, and reconnect them. No...timing is timing.

That is incorrect. Many sealants are in fact oil and gasoline proof. I use RTV on my intakes and a thin coat on my base gaskets, and haven't had an issue with methanol or gas.

Wiseco made the cranks and used hot rods connecting rods. Now they both get their crank parts from the same place in Taiwan, Wiseco just uses their own rods instead of hot rods.

Nothing. A 4 mil crank is a drop in crank. Just have to have the cylinder ported to match, and I prefer running dome cut for the stroker crank over a spacer plate on bottom.

I have always heard Moose stators were good. Last I checked, they were EXPENSIVE!! These are very reasonable to be honest. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOOSE-IGNIT...sQ5fAccessories

Buy a used OEM stator. A pristine used one is gonna run you 50 to 100 bucks. It's worth it. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT buy from RM Stator, Ricky Stator or Rick's Motorsport. They're all the same, JUNK. PM minkia38 or email him at [email protected] He's got parts laying around than Pamela Andersen's had dicks in her. Since it does it all the time, I don't think it's a coil or CDI. Usually, not all the time, a bad coil or CDI will act up when the bike is warmed up. You can ohm test a stator for starters, but I'd had a stator that Ohm'd good end up being bad as well. Crap shoot.

IF you backload it excessively at higher RPMs, it will wear shift forks sooner. There is NO such thing as a TRAIL override. And I wouldn't downshift any override without pulling the clutch...

Very good point. The carb spray will only find bigger leaks...real tiny leaks sometimes won't show. The leak down tester is obviously the best solution, but anyone can go buy a can of carb cleaner for a few buck, often having one laying around the garage. Some people might not have the mean to make their own. Bob from R&B Porting in MI makes a very nice kit for very reasonable, usually around 50 bucks on ebay. He's done all the part hunting for you, I have one, very quality unit.

Most of the forged cranks come from the same place. Get it trued and welded by a competent builder, you'll be fine.

If it's an air leak, you can put a 35 pilot or an 80...doesn't matter. Mine leaked, I sold them and got UPP. I never used the BOSS one piece with a built in crossover, I had the two piece (no crossover) for the bigger carbs. I tried RTV, Yamabond, I made gaskets, new intake boots....I fought it for two weeks while my motor was on the bench, but I have a leak down tester. The only way to fly. Since the bike is together and running, use carb cleaner.

Slopoke, are you actually reading my suggestions, or are you going to keep wasting your time with jets before you know if it's an air leak?

What different size pilots have you tried? .5 to 2.5 is the usable range on the air screws. Did you put a thin coat of RTV on both sides of the reed cage gaskets? Snug down ALL the bolts on the intakes? Run the bike as I described above, short of owning a leak down tester, it's the best way to check for an air leak with intakes.

Put the intakes back on (BOSS) start the bike up and spray carb cleaner around the intakes real good. if the bike wants to die out, you found your leak. If it doesn't make a difference, it's jetting.

611 DM motor with a -2 swinger and he's riding trails.... :yelrotflmao: This is one of those things, if you had everything else, like tires, straight cuts (yes, I'd run them on this size motor) billet second gear, etc. and still had money, I'd get them. These would be very low on my priority list, however...if the other stuff wasn't accounted for.

VERY nice looking work. No hacking here.... Banshee power and current technology frame geometry/handling...very nice!! You just had to go get it dirty, didn't you? LOL.... Again, nice work. Keep us posted with pics and videos of everything...I bet that's a head turner for sure!