dajogejr

If for any reason the weather at SL turns out for shit, a bunch of us will be at Bob's in Clarksville Saturday.... Have a good trip all...be safe!

Viper control, this is Sandman, I believe it was wind sheer...

I would rather have a 1-5 like I do now. If he's not too big of a guy, He can probably gear it to stretch 5th out to the traps. Kevin can make it rip.... Some guys just like the 6th gear. And you can't cut a 5th gear override and leave 6th in. I have the slingshot and 1-5 and am very happy with it.

Shayne...I might take it. Can you measure end to end for me? Mine is going on 3 years old...be good to have a backup, or new one....

Run a 1-4 manual 5 and 6 override for pavement, unless you have a big motor, then just get a 1-5 override cut. Run a lockup as well. You'll need a stock shiftstar for the override, once you mod a stocker you can't use it in an override. I disagree with 2 wild, if you're gonna run an override, get a lockup. Even with streetbike clutch setups, I've seen overrides smoke a clutch with no lockup.

20 to 21 cc. Personally, I'd go 21 cc and add timing. I ran 150 to 155 for the Main, CEL needles middle clip and 48 or 50 pilots when I had that setup.

Plastic scraper of some kind, SOAK them in PB Blaster or WD 40. Soak rags in that stuff and wrap the pipes in them. I used Neverdull and a ton of time and elbow grease to finish the pipes I had up...they weren't as bad as yours, though to be honest.

Your pilots have nothing to do with the bike's throttle being wide open. Your air screws and pilots control off idle to just under 1/4 throttle. If your bike doesn't have triple exhaust ports, good chance you don't need a powerjet, even on alky. Air Strikers jet a little different than conventional PWKs.

Yes... It's got way more fuel than it knows what to do with, keeping in mind the crank case is part of the combustion chamber...it feeds the cylinder fuel/air. If you've got fuel just pooled there, it's PIG FAT... If it's not too much, you can run the engine and clean it out. If it's in excess, you will need to siphon it out as best you can.

That won't get the alky out, trust me...I watched a guy hydro lock a motor and bend a rod thinking that would work... Siphon or use compressed air.

Did you remove the carbs and pipes from the motor or not to do this leakdown test? Remove the reed cages, get a small piece of hose and syphon the fuel out of the crank case.

IF you are just going to bolt it on...don't waste your money. If you are actually going to use and program some of the other features (programmable timing curves, shift light output, tach, stutter box hook up) then I say go for it. If you have the ability to get the software cable, a laptop and dyno time to program curves that work for your bike...do it. There are other things you can bolt on that will do a LOT more than just an ignition at this point. bada nailed them. Save the couple hundo for those, first.

If you're running out of fuel at 3AM with gas, you'll be out by 12 midnight or earlier with E85. Which...may or may not be a good thing.

That's a smoking deal on the pistons, and that same clutch basket is going on it's 4th year of abuse in my bike with ZERO issues. What's the price on those FBT? Or are those for special people??

PJs are like blondes. Kinda flaky...some people get them and love them, some are just turned off by them. I like the PWKs better, and in my opinion, a 4 mil cub will handle 39PWKs all day long. Badassbanshee 479 has always run 39PWKs, gas then alky on his 4 mil and it's always ripped.

Alrighty then. Ditch the Rocket Idea. Get CPI pipes. Between terrible past ownership, bird shit welds, etc., I wouldn't use them, period. The reason I assumed you were trying to neuter it was you asked if 30mm carbs would be better than 34PJs... blowit and/or firehead can probably give you ball park port specs and timing. As said, they're pretty close as is. For WOT Trails, race fuel is the ticket. Methanol would be good for a 5 to 10% increase...but the 200% more fuel consumption just doesn't make it a very viable option unless you wanted to carry an Exxon/Mobil tanker on the back... Not to be a dick...and not like I'm holding big top secrets, but if I posted everything in my motor, you could go to walmart and buy it. And as you fully understand, the numbers alone (timing, etc.) are only half the battle. Shape and tune, as well as overall combustion chamber design and efficiency will get you where you want. To get off the subject but on the same topic, with all this power are you prepared to upgrade the swingarm, suspension, clutch and tranny as well? An override solves that problem of falling off the pipe, btw....bang gears, stay in the meat of the power.

Don't take this the wrong way...but for what you're trying to do, IMO, you're better off with a set of stock cylinders and a 4 mil crank. I've said this a million times. You can take a top fuel dragster to the grocery store, but there are more practical ways. You're trying to "detune" a cylinder meant for open duning and drag racing. Low end and midrange really don't come into effect there. I agree 100% with you that making bigger holes isn't the answer. However, the cubs have BIG HOLES...so, you're working backwards. I couldn't give you port timings or specs for what you're trying to do, because...to be honest, I didn't use either of my cubs in the manner that you are trying to. My 4 mil was a duner that I ran at the drag strip more than the dunes (stupid me didn't put a lockup or override in it...so, kind of a waste, but I learned a lot about it, what it can and can't do) and my 10 mil has ONLY been a straight line drag bike. 95% of the time at the track, otherwise a straight line at the dunes. After running it for 2 years cleaned up by me personally, I had it ported by Kevin @ HJR. It lost a little mid, but DEFINITELY gained on top. It revs forever now. Not what you need.... Off the subject, on your turbo bike, isn't there an ignition you can buy that will record what the bike is doing, to play back later on a laptop for diagnosis? If you really want to try and do this on a cub, here's my challenge to you. Fuel Injection. I don't know how much you know about (I admittedly don't know SQUAT) but I know Kevin Gigot can make them run. I know you want to do your own work, kudos for that, really. But with a little help from the outside, I'd bet an EFI cub would be a lot closer to what you're looking for than what you're trying to do. It's still gonna be a top end screamer, there's no way around that. But I'd bet EFI can somewhat smooth it out and keep the power a little more tractable with a better delivery...or at least your best chance at a better power delivery.

Wait...I just read your other post. You're putting 34PJs and a 2 into one exhaust on it? Never mind my post. Just clean up the casting flaws and run it. Unless you're putting a turbo on the bike with that two into 1....you just neutered a world class pit bull and made it a chihuahua. By raising the exhaust ports you're removing any little bottom to mid it had, you're not going to get that back by compression, timing and a 2 into 1 exhaust...sorry.

Exactly right. Dyno the bike BEFORE you port it so there's no questions. With the casting flaws cleaned up, it is the best cylinder on the market bolt on. Period. There is no disputing that. If you find a "better bolt on cylinder" let me know. Let me give you another hint. Porting the cub, you'll find 80% of your power in the exhaust, the rest in the transfers and very little in the intake. Dyno proven, hundreds of runs on these cylinders, not guessing here. Have you degreed that cylinder in yet...to know what and where to remove the material? The rest of the work is in shaping the ports as well. On a well known and trusted dyno in are area, my 4 mil cub made 85 HP with stock carbs and T5s, cleaned up by Jeff @ FAST, LOTS of timing and compression on 110. I never did dyno it after I put Shearer inframes and 35PWKs on it...but prolly low to mid 90s after that.

RM Stator = Ricky Stator. As said, get a used OEM or contact Rick's Electric. If it smells like shit, looks like shit...chances are...it is shit.

Perfect advice right there.

That is a great point. They are a good drag pipe which my buddy swears by... Very good thinking process!

ipchicken.com, etc. Lots of them. They will give you the public IP of your ISP. Sometimes, ISPs like AOL will use an IP for a block of users...and you get the hose like that. On another forum, if we ban a user by IP we have to be careful of stuff like that. More than likely, your ISP was blacklisted. Call them.

Asus A7N8X deluxe, pair of Raptors in RAID 0, 1GB of crucial DDR400, 2500 Barton OC'd to 3200 and a GeForce Ti4200. 6 years old and a dinosaur...but it does the forums and email just fine....LOL.

Sammy... I have to be honest. With no port work and stock carbs...those pipes aren't going to do anything for you. Shaving the pig down....GREAT idea. Check with your track to make sure they allow the removal of front brakes. Some tracks they are mandatory....and they sometimes make you put a chain guard on as well. Just something to think about. Just my opinion.