dajogejr

I'd be thinking about 16/41 or 42. Especially if you're running pavement (1/8 or 1/4 I presume) May also want to think about a wheelie bar, and play with the air pressure as well. You are using street slicks, right? With that motor and knobbies, you're gonna be spinning on pavement no matter what you do till 3rd gear.....

Greg... If we weren't here to bust each other's balls now and then, what fun would it be?? :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: LOL.... I know what you meant...but, you'll agree too many people want a top fuel motor but overlook the chassis, suspension, clutch and tranny... When I built my 4 mil cub, I knew it wouldn't shift real great, but...I didn't know it was going to shift as shitty as it did (if it would shift at all...) When you're putting down 70 plus HP...you need a longer swinger, period.

Yeah, same happened on mine. I just got Chrome hangers from Ellison....

I don't know what you guys are talking about.... All he has to do is...when no one is looking, pull a spark plug wire on the cub, stuff a bananna in one of the tail pipes, you'll be handing it to 'em!!! (Just make sure you keep riding, cause when he figures it out, it might make the 6 o'clock news) There are a few builders out there that can make a lil 350 run with a smaller cub. Jeff happens to be one of them. I think you're gonna need some drag porting and bigger carbs, probably switch over to alky as well. And...if you're gonna be putting down at or around 70 HP on a stock swinger, good luck. I would rearrange bansh-eman's statement, though. 80% rider, 10% setup and 10% motor. (On a bike ONLY scale, 70% setup and 30% motor) Having 100 HP doesn't mean squat if you can't get it to the ground, get the bike to shift, etc....trust me, I know. I got my 421 cub motor's power to the ground, but...it didn't shift for shit...because I had a stock tranny (No override)... Lesson learned...

After three years I'm going to print and frame that... I think I'm putting you and Brent in the same room....single queen (how fitting) bed. Don't worry, when it blows up...I got a slow 4 stroke too, just like you...

You should be used to it. Race...wait up for you, talk while we wait...then do it all over again. 4 stroke ass whippings, headed for a dune near you....2007. Shitty and gritty....just like your smile's gonna be 4 stroker!!! Sand Sandwiches are free this year for you....all you can eat!!! :yucky:

My buddy has a 564 big bore/big stroke Falicon crank/NMotion kit in his Honda. He also weighs a solid 300lbs. It's fast...but, still needs a little more work to get it's full potential. He thought that bike and my 4 mil cub would be a reasonably close race. Then he rode my bike. Even with me not being able to shift my old motor for shit, it'd still hand it to him. He rode it and so did rriggs, they both said the same thing, how the hell do you shift it (never had an override in it) and my answer was simple, I don't. If i would've had an override in it, it would've been an absolute joke. However....that being said, I think most of us are in agreement, piped/cam'd and jetted 450s are no joke at all. They are not ported banshee beaters...but, pipe for pipe, yeah, they're very quick. And suspended a HELLUVA lot better I might add!!

Since you're getting a timing plate...and I imagine setting it at +4 like everyone, go .020 on the head. If you don't mind running race gas/pump gas mix, go .030. Also, are you going to get the crank welded with this new power, (porting) compression and timing you're going to be throwing at it?

Odd... I'd think the combustion chamber gets WAY hotter than 350....in fact, it has to, the EGTs are 3 to 5 times that much..hmmm... Yeah, I'm going to polish my 10 mil cub anywho...

You're somewhat correct... The 795 is designed for the longer rod (115 vs. 110 stock length) not the longer stroke (58 mil vs. 54 stock) So...that being said, you have two things you can do. Run a spacer plate, or have stroker domes cut. You said money was an issue...so, run the spacer. If you cut the head, the cylinders "Should" be ported/matched to the longer stroke.

It is my opinion that a bolt on 450 should beat a bolt on banshee all day in a drag race, except for the top of top end. Equal skill riders of equal or similar weight. I thought I read somewhere a LTR450 with a pipe and cherry bomb was 45 to 48 HP, but I could be wrong. You'll get 45 or so out of a stock motor/stock port banshee with ALL the bolt ons. Porting done right, however...should allow you to pretty easily pull on a bolt on 450....

It needs the load to be accurate...

Look very closely at the chart you posted. The bottom says 1/8 to 1/4 throttle, the left side says 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. If the needle had anything to do with WOT....wouldn't it be on the chart? If it runs good at 160...and runs poorly at 165, that will only get worse in higher gears. Lower gears pull richer jetting a bit easier. Higher gears don't. I don't think you're too lean, I think you're too rich. Cut a plug after a 3rd gear WOT run and see how it looks. (Remember, do NOT warm the bike up on the plug, it will give a false reading)...use a new plug just for a 1-3 WOT run.

You need to run out at least 5th gear WOT, if not 6th. There is more load on the engine in the higher gears. Your mains are too big, cubs don't even run that large of a main. When you're WOT, your needle in not a factor, only the main. Leave the CEL, dial the main in by hitting the upper gears, then adjust the clip if needed. Your pilot might be a bit big, but not too bad. Might end up with a 45 or 48... Forget about what the end of the plug looks like...here is the correct way to check your mains. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Use the stock needles in both carbs if you're in a pinch until you can get the replacements from Toomey or DynoJet. Plenty of people use stock needles with Toomey pipes and airboxes or pods. They do richen up the middle a little, but...you could practically do that with bumping the clip one. Obviously Capone has never rode with a bent needle...be cause I'd rather richen up the stock needles than try to ride with a bent one and risk the throttle sticking wide open....

You....my friend, have entirely too much time on your hands apparently!!!!

I kinda forgot the first few pages of this thread, however....I would've told you to clean the jets with a wire...good for you!! If you already did this, sorry...but if not, switch the plug wires (either wire can go on either cylinder) See if the pop switches sides. I think your jetting is fine. Sounds electrical...

Chevy....head over to exriders.com I got a used straight axle for 65 shipped. Good guys...and bigger selection of parts too!

While I agree....those mods may make it shift better, putting an override tranny in a bike is like adding 20 hp...easy. No more falling off the pipe, etc. Easier and quicker to click a gear than pull the clutch and click...

Actually...there's a guy coming out with 10 mil forged cranks for not much more than a 4 mil....about 550 was the price I heard. I'll have to post it up when I find it... I don't think straight cuts help make more power or not (I've seen claims of 2-3 HP...) but they do relieve side load on the crank itself....so, I'd call that a longevity/insurance factor. Pipes are a little more...and once you go cub, IMO...a lockup and override are mandatory in my book. Plus...the cub cylinder 10 mil castings themselves are a little more than the 4 mil. The price gas used to be pretty big..however, that's starting to change.

Only on a machine...

The nice part about a programmable is you can custom curve the engine's needs. A timing plate will advance (or retard) the timing statically across the board. Of course the stock CDI has a timing curve built in...but....yeah, if it was that great, there wouldn't be timing plates. Anywho.... With a programmable, you can run a lot more advance at lower to Mid-RPMs...for more punch....but retard it for mid to higher rpms for the overrev and top end pull. Best of both worlds...

based on that pic, your mains are spot on. Leave them. Plugs don't lie...but, they also can't tell you if there's something wrong with your motor. If you're sure the carbs are cleaned out and in good working order....it is what it is. Fix the air screws next...they're the easiest... Warm the bike up, turn each screw all the way in, then out .5 turns. Wait 20 seconds. Keep turning it out .25 to .5 turns at a time (waiting 20 seconds between turns) to get the highest idle. Bike has to be warm to set them this way.. Then I'd say play with the needle...but, seeing as how you're gonna lean it out by putting pods on it....leave the needle for now. Good luck!!

I bought a Nology coil w/ hotwires and Dyna igntion for three reasons. I didn't save money building my cub...wasn't going to save on the ignition. My ignition was from 96....10 years old...didn't want to chance it. And....I had every intention of running alky on my bike. Alky needs a little better spark than gas to light it off...so, I wanted to be covered. Now....your question. Cheap aftermarket boxes (100 bucks) advance the timing a few degrees....but they can NOT increase your RPMs by 1000 as they claim to. Your pipes, intakes and porting decide that. You can increase your timing with a 35 dollar timing plate. Now....a Dyna is programmable. I don't think I'm gonna be pulling 20 HP out of programming my ignition, but...I expect to see a handful of HP. So...if I spend 100 bucks on a cable and software, then spend another 50 to 100 for dyno time to create a custom ignition curve and I walk out with more tourque and an additional 3 to 8HP...it's worth it to me....

Why is the needle that rich. In my experience...that main is way rich for your bike, elevation and temps. However, ojcool will back me on this, plugs don't lie.... (Sorry, had to...) :yelrotflmao: If you're putting around on the bike with your daughter, having the needle on the richest setting will foul plugs more than anything.... How does it run with the needle in the middle?? Putting pods on should lean the jetting out. So...I'd take one run with the pods at the same jetting you have now. If it still shows good, something is wrong, or the plug chop is not being done correctly.... If the jetting is spot on now....the plugs should be white as rice when you chop. You should need to go 360 to 380 on them mains....