dajogejr

Sorry to get off topic. I criticize some for doing it...yet find myself doing just that quite often. It's firehead's fault....LOL. The Main jet wont' effect the midrange as much as your needle. Try different clip positions. You say it's boggy....sounds rich. Try moving the needle one clip towards the blunt end to lean it. Also...make sure your carbs are in sync as well.

I know how you feel... Make sure the chain is in adjustment, the upper and lower rollers are in good shape and the chain guide/sliders are fair as well. Was it popping just sitting there, or while riding it??

His secret is he's in his hot tub before and after a 12 hour plus day in the shop...that bastard... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Do yourself a favor...change the stator first, and only the stator. You'll get caught up doing too many things at once...and not be able to back track later...if ya know what I mean!!! If that solves it...bump up the squeeze!!

1/8 mile pavement or dirt? Pavement I'd bet...and there isn't much resistance, rubber to road...so, you can get away with that kind of gearing. You specifically said it's running great up until the top of 6th gear. It's one of two things. The jetting is lean on the top end...or you're geared too high with not enough motor to pull it. Being it's a stock motor...I think it's geared to high. But, a plug chop done properly will tell. If the plug is white after a proper chop, increase the main 2 sizes, then do it all over again.

Man...12 years old and the memory is already going on you....tsk tsk. 12 years old, well...that explains it all. I've been on these boards, and plenty of others. I know what parts go for. I was only trying to offer help...which I did two ways. One telling you for 100 bucks (I know...about 100) you're not going to find one worth a shit (sorry I had to use a Santa Joke...it was just a joke.) two..I offered a link to a sale on one, from a member I'd personally trust and do business with. Trust me...I do my best to help whoever I can the best I can. (Which...again, I posted a LINK TO A GOOD ONE at a GOOD PRICE)....but I don't sugar coat things, and I tend to use sarcasm and a little wit as well. I've sold plenty parts before I've gotten a dime, I've vouched for other members to complete sales. Anyone that has ever done biz with me, buying or selling...will tell you that I've never screwed them, cheated, lied...or haven't done my very best to be sure they got what they wanted, as they expected it or better, in a more than timely manner. Check the feedback forum on that one. If that wasn't received by you very well...I don't know what to tell you. It's who I am...and how I write. That being said...I don't want to crap all over your wanted thread (Any more than we have already,anyways...) So....good luck, you have your choices...hope one of them works out for you.

You got PM!!!

Crank seal...or electrics. Make or buy a leak down tester.... My cub did the same thing, even AFTER I purchased ALL new ignition. Started and idled great...free revved awesome. Put it in gear, it fell on it's face... Since you mentioned the compression is a little low...I'd bet the motor is tired overall, and a seal is starting to go. cr, did you check the basics: Choke tube in place slides in the right carb bowls in the right carb lastly, drain the tank and remove the fuel valve. You'd be surprised what crap can build up on the stock fuel valve screen...

You should probably keep this all in the same thread. Mark...in his other post (as you're probably readin now) he has a 16 TOOTH front sprocket. I think we've found the problem.

Let me give you free advice.... Run a 14 or 15 tooth front sprocket. You simply do not have enough motor to pull a 16. I'll have a 120HP drag bike built soon, I'll be using a 16 tooth front sprocket on that....

Oh yea....there is no doubt pipes hold up a banshee more than the stock carbs do... With stock porting, I don't think CPIs are a great choice. But...for 200...shit, I couldn't pass that up. I myself want Shearer inframe big bore pipes for my drag bike, but I'm getting a set of big bore CPI out of frames with silencers for 300. So..until I can get what I want, I'll get what I need for now... After all the jetting and working on stock carbs I've done, Mark....I honestly think PWK series are leaps and bound better and easier to work on. As said, they get a bad name from the TORS and idle and stuff...but, I like the simplified design of PWKs... Stock carbs can and have been made to work very well....there's no doubt!!! Just saw your post...Mark. 32.5 pilots I can guarentee will be too fat. I know riders that used 32.5 on alky.... 27.5 or MAYBE 30's...but 32.5 are way too much...even if he had a drag ported motor.... Plus...he said it runs great all the way till 6th is pinned....

Advancing the timing will increase bottom and mid, albeit at a slight sacrifice on top. Reeds won't help top end pull. I'm estimating 1-3 larger mains only on my belief that CPIs flow alot more. Do you have stock gearing? Stock tires? 6th on a banshee is steep....are you running on pavement, hardpack dirt or sand? If sand...you probably simply don't have enough motor to pull the top of 6th gear. When my 96 was stock motor, I had pod filters, T5 pipes and advanced timing. it was spot on jetted. But...when we went for a trail ride in the UP, some of them were pretty sandy trails. My motor wouldn't pull 6th..it would just kinda hang about half throttle....no more. Hard Pack or pavement there isn't as much resistance....it'll wind 6th gear out just fine, normally...if in tune. Since you can wind out 6th gear (lucky you...) do the plug chop as described in the link I provided. If the plugs look good....you can either shorten your gearing (smaller up front or larger in back)..but, you'll be shifting more...or do some more mods. Again, reeds will give you more midrange, timing more bottom and mid. Both are great mods....but to be honest, I'd wait to buy vforce reeds until you get a ported motor...they benefit more.

Reeds generally improve midrange response... 200 for CPIs? Yeah, you did very well...nice steal. Normally....you may have to lean out your needle one clip position for VForce reeds...but, if it's running fine in the middle...don't mess with it. Is it blubbery at the top, or is it revving fast just not going anywhere. I'd bet you have to up the main jet 1 to 3 sizes...CPIs flow a lot more than FMFs. However, do the plug chop to be sure. If you do the chop right....and it still has no top end pull...well...time to get porting to fit better with those pipes. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Someone is probably going to steal these, due to this guy having them listed at "A" not "J" arms for a banshee.... Those look pretty nice, too...nice find fire.

I think if Bikini's are mandatory, and NOT optional....I'm all for it...whoo hoo... :yelrotflmao:

You've actually done this poster a favor. I've read a few posts where guys bought drag style pipes for a stock port OEM motor and were happier with their old setup, FMF...whatever. Now....if you're getting the pipes now with plan for the future...understanding it won't run to it's potential, go for it. (Or...if you happen to get a STEAL on some good pipes for a future build...LOL ) Again, your mileage may vary....and this is only my opinion.... :biggrin:

So...you found two cool heads that are POLISHED for 100? let's see 'em. Over 100...yeah, I believe.... I even posted a link to a good deal on a cool head. So...I don't know where your attitude is coming from, but...you can basically go fuck yourself. And I can give a shit what your pipes were worth....nor do I care what you sold them for... So...by me posting a link to a good deal on a used head, that wasn't staying on subject? Main event doesn't have a price listed on his for sale ad, NOR does it say his is polished, which you specifically said it has to be. So...prove me wrong with this great bargain you found....or go fuck yourself, or both. Either way, I could care less.... Does it look like I said they were worth 200 to 250? Get your facts straight before you run your mouth to me little man. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=75492&hl=

In my opinion....NO. A Shearer, CPI....or other mid to top or top end pipe is a waste of money on a stock port/stock stroke banshee. FMF or T5...even Trinity Stage IVs are a better choice. Hell, if he never plans on getting it ported (yeah, like that ever happens) even a T6 pipe. Especially with stock carbs to boot. To get the most benefit, dune porting, CPIs and some 33 carbs/intakes would be a very nice boost and complimented package.... Just my opinion....

Jet kits, IMO...are a waste of money and too generic. Just buy three sizes bigger than you have in there now...main jets are about 4 bucks each. Do a plug chop properly, see how it runs. Go from there.... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

What do the plugs look like? What are all your mods. What jetting is in there now? Are you sure the seals (between the header pipe and stinger tubes) are sealed? Any black soot around that area?

Do you have an air box, with or without the lid? what kind of air filter setup are you running??

Yep...what he said. 68mm bore and 7m stroke and up like the big bore pipes.

Yep, probably 1-3 sizes on the main, and will probably have to turn the air screw in 1/4 to 1 turn.

Brent...you better be careful. No Motion already says he'll race you right now...since you've got a few issues. He said his NMotion bike is gonna make your banshee look like SLOW MOTION.... I wouldn't take that from him.... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

buying paddles is almost an art. You have to take sand type, swinger length, rider weight, suspension setup, gearing and motor mods all into consideration..... Too much hook will slow you down...as will not enough.