dajogejr

Before I built my cub, I took my stock clutch basket and hit the grooves with a medium roloc scotch brite pad on my angle grinder, just smoothed it out.... Ran it that way for a full season my stock bore, stock port motor with pipes, jetting and a shaved flywheel. It didn't creep as bad on the line, and seemed to engage much smoother. For 150 bucks or so...when you have the cash, get a billet basket. You don't need the hinson setup. The basket I bought from Jeff (an off brand, Magnum) still looked brand new when I pulled my 4 mil cub apart from a solid season of beating the ever living shit out of it...no grooves, notches, etc... Hinson makes nice stuff, don't get me wrong...but, not worth the price IMO...

Sent me some stock pipe hangers for next to nothing, they are literally brand new.... Thanks a bunch Ryan, I'm hoping I can return the favor!!!

I'd love to try a set of these on my 10 mil. My biggest problem with the original Rockets was fit and finish. I put them on my stock port 96....probably not the best pipe for a non-ported stock motor. Ty...can you get me in touch with him? I'd love to talk to him...and try a set out. All I have for my bike right now are CPI out of frames/silenced. Shearer hasn't cranked out any new Big Bore inframes for some time...everyone is waiting on them. I'd really like to stick to inframes... I could arrange for some dyno time if Ron wanted to let me test a set out, maybe a poorly welded or cosmetically incorrect set..... not being able to check plugs easily is a bigger concern for me...running on alky.

I agree. My buddy bought a motor from him, top to bottom. Good shape, not a basket case...as promised. Good seller...

If you think top end is good on a CPI...you should try a Shearer... IMO...don't waste your money on a super cub. They aren't worth it yet. You'll have to get new reed cages, a different head, etc. As of now, with EXTENSIVE porting, they're making a few HP and a few ft. lbs of torque over a std. 68mm bore cub. So, they cylinder is more $, the porting costs even more $... Just get a 10 mil 68 bore. Just get a clean up port.... IMO...it's not worth the money to drag port a cub. Tyler, can't believe you're holding out on me. I'd love to try this pipe on my new 10 mil....might change my mind about not buying Big Bore Shearer inframes.... Hook a brotha up!!!

No doubt about it!! I'm always good for a little keyboard racing!! :yelrotflmao:

Dammit.... I told my girl that was supposed to remain in our "private stash spot"... Great, I"m sure she uploaded it to youtube already.... :biggrin:

Firehead...seems we're not the only ones around here venturing just a tad off topic... :yelrotflmao:

There are more places it can and will leak...like the crank seals. You really need to do a leak down test. if it's sucking that much air, it really doesn't matter what jet you put in. You also forgot the base gasket. It can leak there as well.

1Roost, I don't know how to type this without sounding like a smart ass....so, please don't take it that way... How do you know it doesn't have an air leak? Did you actually do a leak down test? I'm very confident in my build skills/techniques, but...my brand new out of the box cub leaked like a screen door in the wind...and I did everything 100% correct. An uneven surface won't seal, no matter how careful you are and how well you torque it down. I think something else is plugged in the pilot circuit ...maybe not the jet, but a passage somewhere. It might not start well, or easy...but with stock pilots in, it should still start....

Thanks for the help...guys. A propane torch, 4 or 5 beers and some big channel locks later, all set. Just needed a little heat on her.... I should've taken a picture of the bearings, or lack thereof, that crumbled out of it. I thought the carrier was gonna be toast, think it's gonna be aiight.... Thanks again for the help!!

Call Rob @ RDZ, Andy @ GRR or Dan Hull @ A&S racing. They're all MI builders. You could also call Bob @ R&B racing, his handle on here is machwon. Otherwise....ebay or classifieds are the way to go. My cases have a chain break in them....oh well. It is what it is.... There are a few guys on here that part out bikes. Look over at planetsand.com as well....

535...I totally agree. When I went to build my cub last year, I called 10 builders... It was busy season, about this time last year. A few just kinda treated me like a number, a couple were ok...and a few never called me back, even though I was ready to hand them a Visa number and spend a solid 3K on various items. Now...you know as well as I do...3K is not a TON of money when it comes to building a drag bike. However, it's a fair chunk of change that merits a return phone call. In the end, I chose who treated me the best, had good pricing (no one can be the cheapest on everything...period.)...and who I thought respected me. I know I made the right choice. Anyone can talk about customer service. I've worked in retail for a long, long time. Both sides of the fence...at the store level and the corporate level. All people want is someone that is honest and treats them fair. Customer is NOT ALWAYS right 100% of the time. You can bend, but can't break. I've had the best customer service from my chosen builder...and although I don't buy all my parts from him (I do find some pretty good deals on used parts, here and there...) I always do my best to support those that support me. Bottom line is...find someone who treats you like you want to be treated....very well put 535.

You must be a dealer of his if you were able to get him on the phone.... :yelrotflmao: Just kidding...well known he's busy and isn't the best in getting back with people... His work more than speaks for itself in any circle, however.

Most people move up from T5's to Shearers...you'll have NO problem getting some T5s back if you're not happy with them. Personally....if you're gonna get 'em, have Jeff drag port your cylinders to take full advantage of them. I think a dune/play port is suited better to a T5 or Trinity style pipe...MAYBE even an Inframe CPI.

Why in sam hill are you selling that bike Nick? didn't you just get it running??

Let me know what you got, could use 2 sets if the price is right.

Are you guys sure Dan Hull runs stock? I thought I read somewhere on PS that he uses and Artic Cat snomo dual coil setup. Could be wrong.... I got a dyna and nology for a few reasons. I wanted a better coil than stock. Do I need it? Probably not...but, I had a 10 year old coil...so, instead of waiting for mine to fail, I bought a new one. Also...here's my biggest thing about my Dyna. I fully understand you can get a cheapo plate and advance your timing (I've got one) however....all you can do is advance the overall curve. With a programmable dyna, you can advance it more in the lower RPMs, yet retard the timing as the R's raise for more top end and overrev. Once (if ever...lol) I get my bike together and get time to get to a dyno, I've promised to make dyno pulls with stock dyna settings, then programmed curves to see the real difference.... (Also, my CDI was 10 years old, and where the wires went in the plastic housing was cracked up...just a problem waiting to happen....)

Thanks....Don. I'm going to leave the flywheel as is, tune in the lockup....and go from there. I appreciate the input!

Your pilots are too big, especially on a stock port bike with an airbox, but i agree with you 100%..it should at least start...and should start pretty good cold with those big of pilots. Just for the heck of it, put stock pilots back in the bike, set the air screws at 1 turn out each. If it makes a HUGE difference, you need to work on your pilot/air screw settings. If it don't make a lick of difference, I'd be checking the electrical and possibly an air leak. However, it would run bad at higher RPMs with an air leak....

Not adding fuel to the fire..but I have a question about your comments regarding flywheel mass. Do you mean it's harder to get out of the hole on asphalt or in sand? Also..are you a big guy, small guy...or use a Jockey? I've heard lighter flywheels are great for the light guy, but take away from the holeshot for "heavy hitters".... I'm 250ish myself, and have considered shaving my flywheel on my drag bike (10 mil cub)...but, not sure. I will run in sand probably 90% of the time...if not more, if that helps. Thanks for your input....

Yep...as long as the rubber is in good shape, I'll take 'em. PM'd you again. I just need something with a little flex for my out of frame pipes so they don't snap off....my stockers were garbage, so I got solid Chrome ones from Ellison for my inframe pipes.... Let me know what you want to do!!! And thanks a bunch, I owe ya.

I'm sure I can hook you up with something... I'm not sure when I'm going to be in the Auburn Hills area for work...and for the 5 to 10 bucks it'll cost me in gas (yeah...it's got a Hemi...lol) I'd rather pay you shipping. I'll PM you my info...and I can send you a check, money order or paypal...whatever is easiest for you. Thanks much, I appreciate it!!! Dave

Yeah, off to home depot again to get a big ass pipe wrench.... The channel locks I was using just aren't going to cut it. Man...I sure like how easy my drag axle is to work on. Hex nuts and aluminum pinch bolts....so much nicer!! Thanks!!! These are in fact reverse thread, correct??

How much ya want for 'em, and where in SE are you?