dajogejr

Please don't use Yamabond unless you never plan on taking it off again. 'bond is for cases....that's about it. Hi Temp RTV for just about everything else. If it has an oring, take it off, and put a small amount of high temp RTV on your fingers and go over the whole Oring, just a thin coat is all you need. That's exactly what I do for Orings in cool heads, etc.

Dune port, 33PWKs, 2 to 4 over swinger, 3HD springs, 3 stock clutch springs, T5, CPI Inframe or Trinity pipes. Trails and Drag Racing are on total opposite ends of the spectrum...and it's a huge gap to bridge. Best of luck...

1 tooth larger in the front is "roughly" the same as 2.5 teeth off the rear. Dial in the front, fine tune with the rear teeth. Don't forget, if you're running a lockup...you can further fine tune with weights....dial that in by your 60 foot time.

sudco.com or carbparts.com

That's the plan. Be there the night of the 25th through that Saturday night or Sunday morning, depending on how much shit I break or how bad I fuck myself up....

You should think about getting into a powerjet system due to the pretty big elevation changes you'll be riding in, rather than changing jets all the time. Tune it to run on the power jet for lower elevations, and simply close the valve (lean it out) for higher elevation riding....

Other than a shitty port job, make that MX trail style port job, the package looks ok. Why did it blow up? Lean, air leak, ?????

Exactly, nice post. Try 1024 by 768 resolution for the photo uploads....

Silly question, but did you go right from stock carbs WITH TORS on them to these carbs? If so....that would explain why you can't get full throttle....the cables are too long. If you already have the thumb cable made for the TORS removal kit, use the hex adjusters on top the carbs to remove the slack....and the adjuster that goes into the the thumb throttle. The Throttle adjustment takes out the majority of the slack...the adjusters on top of the carbs are for minor adjustments and syncing the two carbs..... A twist throttle or TORS cable will NOT work for the throttle....

Rod...what is wrong with you....? All you need to do is bring another woman home...wait till she walks in, and asks if she wants to watch.... Hey...if I can ride my old CR 3 weeks after fracturing my foot in 5 spots (cut my own cast off) you can ride buddy...we'll get you a rubber band and handicap steering wheel if need be, or you can ride my slow poke 4 stroke 400EX so you don't hurt yourself...LOL Get well buddy...

I'm running a 14 paddle on my 14 over 10 mil cub. It is way too much paddle for a 4 mil cub on a 6 inch arm... It's going to hook too good off the line, and slow him down in top end. I used a 10 paddle Hauler on my 4 mil, 6 over arm...and I weigh 250 lbs. It hooked good, good MPH down the stretch (300 ft sand drags)....

Yeah...Josh, I think you're really choking a motor that isn't meant to be choked. By design it likes to breath and rev out. You can sink money and time into it...to give it a "four stroke" feel...but, in the end, prolly easier to just get the four stroke to begin with!!

Well...it sounds like the lower jetting circuits are probably too rich. However, I know you just built that not too long ago. for 30 to 50 bucks, you can make your own leak down tester or buy one. It might not be a bad idea for piece of mind.... Nick, I try to err on the side of caution....and I'd rather have you waste 50 bucks on a tester than 500 to 1000 on a new crank, top end, gaskests...etc.

Not always, and it'd run like shit at higher RPMs...and your plugs would be white and lean.

I believe he's in Clawson, MI. It's a Detroit suburb...15 to 20 minutes away. (Maple and Livernois area if you wanna map it...)

Honestly....you'd be wasting money and time on a cheetah or cub setup. Get a good healthy port on your stock clyinders....much more usable power.... Do a search on cubs and trail friendly....you'll read more than you'll ever need to.

If you're confident there are no air leaks, then I'd say throw the 42s in there. Normally...I see 45 to 50 in bigger motors and a cub. However, they normally do NOT run an airbox, which you are. I think 42 will get you pretty much where you need to be. Nick...if it makes you feel any better, I used to leave my pilots a hair rich anyways, I'm sometimes too lazy to pull the chokes....and since I drag race 90% of the time, I never see idle.....WOT or get off the pot man... :biggrin:

Dan, Do you want drag style (Straight blade) paddles or duning (V Cut) style? Rocky Mountain has Haulers dirt cheap with free shipping. If not, MotoMan is out by you somewhere, bet he's got 'em cheap too.. (acutally, he's in Canton, bout an hour drive from ya...).

Austin.. Do you really want to put a set of mistmatched used pistons in a bike just to save 120 to 150 bucks?? Asking for trouble if you ask me....

15/41.... 15/39 might dog a bit in sand, 15/45 is almost the same at 13/42...too low, nothing but wheel spin and shifiting gears too fast.

ON my old motor (SoCalinit has it now) I ran a best of 4.7 in 300 sand, 4.9 consistent. 4 mil cub on race gas, stock gearing, NO Override, NO Lockup Clutch, stock full frame. I expect with a cut frame, lockup and override tranny, I could've hit 4.4 to 4.5 or so, maybe with a little alky. I'm expecting 4.1's to 4.2's with my new 10 mil cub build.... Also, I'm 250 lbs, I don't believe in Jockeys.....

You have the same setup I did in my cub. I used CELs, mid clip. 48 pilots (still a hair rich) and 150 or 152 mains. And I had a lot more timing than you're running, too!! Run good old BR8ES, gapped .028. I ran stock gearing on a 21" paddle, 72" rollout, and launched in second. Not to be a smart ass, Todd...but, did you complete the cub package? Longer swinger, better clutch or lockup, override tranny?

You are thinking way too hard and too long about this. If he refuses to plug chop, why offer to help him any more. Let him blow it up...then he'll figure out the expensive way, as many do...that it takes minutes and a few bucks to chop and replace plugs. I promise it's more than that, time and money wise, once he cooks a motor....

No such thing, sorry....there are simply too many variables, not to mention no two bikes are the same. If you think it's too much work to change jetting to get your bike running properly, buy a 4 stroke, leave it stock....and never worry about a thing, you have the wrong bike. Soon it'll be too much work to clean the air filter, or change the oil, etc....

Mods, carbs, elevation, temps and current jet in there now...please. Sorry Nick...I know I've read it before, but...it's all kinda a blur for me... It sounds like you need to lean the pilot a size or two, but have you used the full adjustment of the air screws already??? (Normally 1.0 to 2.5 turns out??) :biggrin: