dajogejr

Thanks...but I have solid brackets for when I get inframes....still waiting on Shearer. Out of frames like to flex a lot...so, I need rubber mount. Thanks anyways, Steve...I appreciate it!! Lucky for my, my buddy I got them from had the footpeg brackets rewelded stronger before he ever used 'em, they're mint. Pipes are gonna be up for sale soon as someone can get me big bore shearer in frame pipes...

Free Bumpski for a great guy with clean bikes. Sorry to see you leaving Rod, but...with the job market here vs. in the south, I understand. If I get the axe here anytime soon, I'll be looking you up down there for a room mate!! You don't mind two St. Bernards, do ya??? Sorry to hear your leaving...thanks for all the laughs and good times.... We'll have to have a beer in your honor in our trip in a few weeks. Best of luck to you buddy...hope some southern belle takes good care of you... Rod, you have my cell if you need anything...take care!!! Dave

I need two stock exhaust hangers with the rubber in good shape. I've temporarily got CPI out of frames, and I need hangers to bolt them to the peg. I'm going to rubber mount them...so, if anyone else has any ideas, I'm open to that as well!!

Thanks...Kaotic. I got a used straight axle for 65 shipped. Ok shape, but the ends are a little beat on the threads. If it doesn't work, I'll take ya up on that. I'm hoping the carrier isn't shot...the bearings are that bad. Oh well, it's a play bike. Yeah, I'm going to get a big pipe wrench and a little heat. Just didn't want to start reefing on it...the wrong way... LOL...

Yeah, I'm thinking a pipe wrench and a torch are going to be coming very soon... ON EX riders they say loosen the inner nut first, reverse thread...than the outer... HMM....since I'm replacing the axle AND bearings, I'm about ready to cut the damn thing off...oh well. Thanks for the help!!!

Yeah, You've covered your basic bases for sure... The pickup gap is the gap between the two contact magnets and the pickup coil from your stator. The gap should be set between .015 and .018. Normally...though...too big a gap would make it run poorly at higher RPMs, not lower. Even though the jets are new, the passages could be clogged up a bit, it doesn't take much! Do you have a timing plate? Timing key? Have you checked to make sure it hasn't sheared? Do you have a friend with a spare set of carbs you could swap with, just to check?

The "B" locknut it "over" that clip...and It can't come out. I thought the two locknuts applied pressure "against" that very clip? I'm gonna have to get a big pipe wrench...I found this on EX forums. http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php...p;threadid=1342

It says it's starting, just hard to start. Normally, if it's electrical....it will run worse when it warms up. Electrical fails once it gets hot. Also...if it were TORS related, normally it'll start fine, but...it will just BLAH past idle. A few other things to think about. Is the choke tube between the carbs in place? Are the slides in the right carb...AND...do you have the right carb bowl on the right carb? (The slides and bowls are carb specific...)

Yep... And race gas shouldn't even make an engine that needs it start any better....all it does is stop a high compression motor and/or a motor with a lot of timing from detonating....no more, no less.!!!

When you say lots of compression....do you mean by feel of the kickstarter...or by an actual gauge? What is your elevation, stock head or aftermarket with domes, and what does the compression read? You've cleaned out the pilot circuit completely, as in with a wire through the pilots, carb, ect? What's the pickup gap set at?

Take another hit...I'm sure you'll figure it out... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=72452&hl=

Yep...beat me to it.

Trying to get some work done in the garage, and I'm having a brain fart here. I've attached a picture, and I believe you need to loosen the locknut (A.), run it down the axle TOWARD the carrier, Loosen the nut ( same thing, toward the carrier, then remove the lock snap ring from the groove on the axle. Is this correct? I cleaned up the threads, soaked it in WD...but before I start reefing on it, just want to be sure. I had a locking pinch bolt on my shee before my current drag axle...this is a new one on me... Thanks... :thumbsup:

Called my boy to tell him I'm picking up my bike this weekend, we're gonna go back on the ice, fuck the dunes.. LOL :yelrotflmao:

Can't wait for the trip... Dan, it' aint' your average 4 poke. It's no cub killer...but it's got quite a bit invested into it.... And...we drag race A LOT!!! Good to hear, just got my polished billet flywheel and water pump cover, and picked my pipes up today, too!!! Getting antsy myself.... Hoping to have it mostly done by next weekend!

Are you talking about the inside? I've never cleaned the exhaust pipe on any bike I've ever owned, two or four wheels. Closest I've come is repacking the silencers. Now...the outside, different story. Bling Bling...

Happy belated birthday you old bastard.... You may be older than me, but with the hot tub taking years off....you might not be able to legally drink that beer.... Hope you had a good 'un.

PC'd chrome base, then translucent red. It cost me 350 for the frame, cases, hubs and front spindles. I've seen engine PC for as little as 150ish, to as high as 400. I'd bet if you tape off the bearing races, holes, etc., it'd be cheaper. Most of the cost of PC'ing cases is because of the tedious time it takes to tape stuff off... Here's how mine came out: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=73990&hl=

Room is booked at the Dunes resort. Wed. through Sunday, check in after 3PM. 120 including taxes for Wed. and Thurs. night, about 140ish for Friday and Saturday night (132.00 plus tax.) 3rd floor. It's warmer on the upper floors since it's gonna be a little colder in April...and, closer to the pool/jacuzzi. Feel free to request a room on our floor, 3rd. floor...parking lot side (cheaper than water side)... My room is under my name, Dave Germain. They charge your credit card 1st two nights for deposit, and they have a 1 week cancellation policy, if you cancel within the week of the reservation...they charge you 15 dollar minimum. It's on baby!!!

Put the needle back in the middle clip. You're gonna have to fine tune from here, based on plugs, feel and sound. You're not too far off on your jetting now...a size or two and you'll be good to go. Funny how electrical will make you pull hair out, huh?? Have fun!!

Odd...I have a Ricky Stator stator and pickup coil on a brand new plate...I can adjust mine as normal. The bracket that holds the pickup coil on is slotted, just loosen the two small phillips heads and set it at .015 to .018. CEL Needle, middle clip. Put 45 pilots in there. Put 152 mains and try that.

Never heard that one... Have you tried closing your gap a little since compression is higher. I've heard of the flame kernal getting blown out by too much compression....but not shorting the plug itself out. I agree....unless the head squish angle was recut to make up for the .040 mill...get an aftermarket head with domes properly cut.

out of curiousity... What was wrong with the old flywheel and stator? Have you tried using the old flywheel and/or stator to see if it cleared up??

When you put this motor together, did you check: Compression Leak Down test squish Air gap on flywheel Use fresh plugs If the float is off/stuck and filling the cylinder...that pipe could be getting hotter from more gas/unburned fuel... Plus...your jets are way huge. You shouldn't have to use the adjustment cable holders on top of the carbs for idle adjustment, cut a couple loops off the idle screw spring and try again. Screw the idle screw in with the carb off, and look down the throat to make sure it is actually raising the slide. You only need to have the slide raised 1/8 inch or so from seated for most bikes to idle...

With +4 timing and 169PSI or so, I wouldn't even chance it running pump gas. Either your wallet is larger, or your luck is much better..... I'd run a mix of 50/50 race/pump with that much compression. Since you don't know dome size, you really need to know the compression. Also...you'd be wasting your money on more motor mods until you upgraded the shocks and suspension first.... I could probably smoke by a stock suspended banshee with a 400EX where jumps and turns are concerned on a tighter track...