dajogejr

PM Lunatic. He's got two sets...and they need a fuel pump. 39PWKs off snowmobiles....a favorite among the alky crowd.

Call a builder, here's a quick run down. Head, coolhead or stock, cut to run big bore pistons. 68mm blaster pistons. 10 mil cub casting/cylinder 10 mil stroker crank cases trenched so the crank rod journals don't rub That's the necessities....here are the recommended. Override trans, dunable or standard. Lockout clutch (a must pushing 110 to 125HP) Big Bore Pipes Larger carbs, 35 to 41mm Longer Swinger extended chain That's a basic list... A stock motor pushes 35 HP, give or take. that motor will make roughly 4 times that. How reliable it is depends on how well it's put together and how well it's maintained. Bottom line is is a drag engine....so...there are no real guarantees...period!

Don't need...sorry. Free bump, good deal... :thumbsup:

Pretty much what I was thinking.... I'd like to see a big Nate McCoy Cheetah run...

He just had his second kid in the last few months, and is getting ready to get a new house. So...he's savin away. In all reality...in a year or two when he's ready to build a drag bike, I'll probably just sell him mine at an incredible discount, and start a fresh one all over again. Lucky for him, he gets to learn from our mistakes as far as what works and what doesn't!!! Plus...if he buys my 10 mil cub, that will force me to get a big stroker cheetah...

I figure once Bob blows up the no motion bike, he can jump on my 400EX to save some of his pride...LOL... Plus...I figured my girl could ride the 400 if she ever gets a chance to get out!

Pics? Dibs.

CPIs are drag pipeish....they do have a little more middle than Shearers, not much though. I agree with you....but, he said his cub is on the way. ON a dyno this motor will have more power than a stock motor down low and in the middle. However, by the seat of your arse it won't feel like it because the "real" power gets dropped on you like a ton of bricks....

Chris...and Loco will back me on this one. Spend the extra cabbage and get a dunable override. ESPECIALLY since you're already getting a lockup. A lockup on that motor is a waste without the override to compliment it. I had a 4 mil cub on gas, and it flat out ripped. It shifted like absolute ass....and I didn't even have a lockup, I just used Jeff's clutch and 6 HD springs... Also...T5 pipes on a cub is sort of defeating the purpose of that motor. And I'm talking from experience...not out of my arse. When I first built my 4 mil, I had stock carbs and T5 pipes. You're really limiting the motor....and...my intention was using those pipes/carbs to try and tame the motor for trails. Not tight trails, but...wide open fireroad trails. IT DID NOT WORK. It still had a lightswitch powerband....period. I know it's easy for us to sit here and tell you how to spend your money...but, I've been down that road, trust me...you'll be happier with a properly breathing cub motor. Get the override first....then pipes when you have the money. CPI or Shearer are a very fine choice. CPI if you dune more, Shearer if you drag more.

Nope...no trails. I'm putting paddles on and it's gonna be my mud bog bike....

Yep...exactly Cam. Like I said...Crazy...don't take my post the wrong way, not meant to be a smart ass or sound like a jerk at all. But cleaned up cub cylinders are by far the best bang for the buck you can buy, period. Guys can spend 30 to 60 hours to get those kinda numbers out of OEMs. And I'm sure they're not making minimum wage to do it!!! However, OEM cylinder and stock stroke racers are a large bunch...they love to see how much and how fast they can go out of a set of stockers...there's no doubt about it!

Meat...those titanium allen head tapered bolts are some of the baddest shit I've ever seen... I'm gonna take firehead up on his offer!! But...man those Ti bolts are bad ass!!!

Yeah, it's like Whitney said... "Crack is Whack".... Thanks rustbag...been that kinda week buddy.

Oh boy.... Yeah, try new plugs. R means resistor. Either plug will work, unless you plan on fastening an FM radio onto your bike...LOL.

Probably a 68mm stock stroke cub (392, I think) And you're not porting 10HP out of it. There are very, and I mean very few people that could port 10HP out of a cub, certainly not your average porter.... Especially not trinity....since cubs are drag ported from the factory, the "Stage" porting from Trinity shouldn't apply. it's either a drag port (just raising the exhaust and massaging the transfers/intakes) or it's cleaned up. A properly setup cub stock stroke, 68mm bore on gas should be every bit of 80 plus HP EASY... Your bike shouldn't beat that bike....period. Either it's not setup properly, he can't ride...or Kevin Herr does an amazing dune port and you're a helluva rider yourself. Crazy...don't take that the wrong way. A win is a win....but, not many people can get the kind of numbers out of an OEM cylinder that you can basically bolt on with a cub. I'm not saying it can't be done...I'm just saying not a whole lot of people can. Your bike probably has low 70s HP...my guess. Add another carb, add a few more HP and some RPMS as well

All you had to do is start a "cub in the trails" thread to get some views and responses....I was sitting here scratching my bald head why this wasn't posted on April 1st..instead????

Hell Yes. Straight 110 octane...

Lookin good man. Weird looking at a frame with all the tubes/brackets in it after looking at mine for so long now... Pictures never do PC justice, I swear...bet that baby gleams in the sun.

Yeah...IF I get tight or in a bad spot with money...the play bike would be one of the first things to go. So...I think I'm gonna hold onto it now. Not because I plan on going on a ton of trail rides...but, like Evan said...you're gonna hit the strip with your banshee now...that's it. If you want to go bounce around, carve some dunes, do some wheelies (on purpose to screw around) the 400EX is a great bike to do that on. Not a rocket...but, fun and maintenance free!!! Can't really imagine bouncing around too much with Marvins, lightened frame and drag axle!! See...we are getting a little bit smarter JT.... :beer:

Tough question. They're new plugs. A lot of people take NGKs out of the box and throw them in.... They are usually pretty close to spec as is. However....I think another site could answer your question rather than write a novel here. This is the best description I can give you....with a picture. Bascially, there is a gap between the enter electrode and the electrode strap, the spark jumps the gap to ignite fuel/air. Manufacturers specify what the gap should be ...with a minimum and maximum. The rest is explained here....'bout halfway down the page. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug

Correct. Some 35.5 TMX Mikunis are a great alky setup too. Dump tubes (where the needle slides down into the main) needs to be drilled. You can replace this dump tube on most Mikuni carbs. You can not replace this on Kehins. I think T5s would be a good all around pipe if you're gonna dune...CPIs more so....but Shearers if you're gonna drag more than dune. To be honest, if you're gonna go alky, it should probably be because you're gonna drag race 75% of the time. I don't know too many people on meth that just plan on bouncing around the dunes with the occasional race... Usually, it's half the price of race fuel from the pump...but, you go through twice the amount and more oil too...so, no cost savings really. Just more power, from 5 to 20 percent, roughly of course.

A tiny dab of locktite (blue stuff) will make sure those screws back out. I think badassbanshee479 did have a screw backout on him and trash a motor...but, I could be mistaken. 2's do make a few HP more on a dyno...nothing you'll feel or even see on a timesheet, though. For the price, I'd get the 2s as well.

As a matter of fact, a hot tub conversation took place yesterday AM...didn't mention any of that, though. He asked if I had any polished cool heads for a hundo....we both had a good laugh at that one. (Look in the wanted section, that will make more sense if you haven't seen the post already...) I'm just gonna bolt on my 10 mil cleaned up this year, try to get some dyno time to program my dyna sometime...but, I have every intention of either getting some port work done to it after this season...or building an even bigger 14mil Cheetah...maybe bigger...he he he.... Last year I said I'd never build a drag bike, just a duner. Yeah, you see where that got me. When I start dumping money into that 400EX...please come to my house to smack the shit out of me...if I still have a house... :biggrin:

Shit...you'd be crazy to go elsewhere. I just talked to him yesterday about some odds and ends. I told him if I gave him an extra 20 spot, could he pour some lead down your frame...he's pondering it now... LOL.. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :beer: :beer:

Ok...this might sound like a dumb question, but do you know how to measure and gap spark plugs?