dajogejr

If they're at 90% of their bore...it might be easiest to start over. Get a set of used Jugs off Ebay....start with them, preferably with some life left in them, .040 or less taken off. It would suck to go through all this work, pay the money and spend the time, only to pop a motor with no life left in it. Just my .02..

Keep a spare 10 mil on hand, Rog....in case this one goes up in flames....LOL. Thanks buddy...appreciate it. Bringing the kitchen sink for the maiden voyage....hopefully all goes well! You got my number still? If not, PM me...so I can get it to you! Talk to ya soon!!

OH boy.. The pilot air screw handle the throttle from idle to about 1/8 throttle, needle till about 3/4 throttle, then the main jet from 3/4 to WOT. Changing the needle position will (or...should) have NO effect on idle at all. it will richen or lean the midrange throttle position. (Towards the blunt end is leaner, toward the pointed end is richer)...

Cause MySpace is free... I agree... Holly and Dave, you could probably generate revenue and a loyal fan base from people here at the HQ, no one is questioning your parts, service...etc., hell I bought your power jets cause of the good word I heard from them. But..sponsoring this site can't be that much money for all the offers you guys put out.... Gotta put in to get something out....

In my opinion, if you attempt an upper plate, you're wasting your time. Do you know how to check squish?

I honestly have no idea. There are a few builders on this site, FAST Racing is a sponsor, Jim @ Passion.... There are also quite a few builders on Planetsand.com. Here is your best bet, call each one personally. See how they treat you, see how well they return your call, etc...and their pricing. They will tell you what is best for you, and mention you're in CA...for shipping purposes. Make your choice from there....

Sorry to hear you went to the dark side, but...hey, gotta do what's right for you. I imagine one day I'll get this speed thing out of me, and I'll be riding a 4X4 with big ol mud flaps, I push a button...and the damn thing near drives itself. I've had a ton of fun on an ex-girls old Polaris 400....sportsman, TANK I tell ya...

PM'd.... Thanks bro!

I can understand that...sorry!! Plenty of good builders here in the states that will ship back an forth, if you have the time and $$...

Practical thinking says a free flowing pipe from T5s to CPI, then CPI to out of frames... You might have to richen up a bit...but, checking your plugs the proper way (plug chop) will tell you for sure.

Timing and compression normally do not warrant a jet change. However, sometimes you need to fatten the main one.Only one way to find out, plug chop it to be safe.

Proper way is to get an inside and outside mic for the cylinders, check the pistons ...and a feeler gauge to measure ring end gap. If the gap is acceptable and within range, clean up the cylinder with a rag and clean soapy hot water and reassemble them. Why deglaze the cylinders when the rings are already broken into the motor?? You'd almost be breaking it in again...

Yep...one of the reasons I loved my inframe Shearers... Dave, just get some out of frame pipes and be done with it...LOL!! Hope you and dad can make it next week! I bought header wrap from cascade, never used it because I sold my T5s and got Shearers...however, have heard lots of good about them. You might be able to try angled pod filters instead of straight back...the site more level... Good luck buddy, hope to meet up with ya next week!!

I'd find a new builder, if you can. Not going to look on Vito's site, I believe you, I've just never heard of anyone running an upper plate...I'd think your chances of leaking are way worse up top where all the compression happen vs. on the bottom. Get your cylinders ported for the correct stroke height, then get stroker domes cut to your spec. You'll have to mock the motor up to get the proper squish angle...

Anyone got any laying around, need left and right side? Might have an odd or end to trade if needed... Lemme know, have paypal...will send $ right away.... Thanks...

Kinda what I thought.... You're the man, thanks much for the help. I know I didn't see those in my Bin 'O' parts...looks like i need some. Much appreciated!!! Anybody got some, hit me up over in the wanted section..

I put Hi temp RTV on the first 3 or 4 threads of all my head studs. Finger tight, let them sit for 1/2 hour in the jugs, then reassemble. As said, tighten the head by spec....and I usually go 10 ft. lbs., then 15, then 21 to 22 finally... Nice even torque....

Ebay... I got a polished 2 piece billet stator cover and a polished aluminum water pump cover for 260... I have this one, minus the flame on the cover...mine's just plain, same price. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Banshee...sspagenameZWDVW

Yes.... And I've never heard of a spacer for the top, only under the cylinder....if you were gonna put it on top, you might was well get cut domes and/or cut head.

Yep...get a package of assorted heat shrink tube, and I like the plastic male/female spade type connectors with plastic on the outside of them. I just got a pack of each from Home Depot...think it was 1.29 for a pack of 4 or 5 each kind. Just cut off the shrink wrap to cover the crimped connection and about 1/4 to 1/2 inch past...I just did my kill switch yesterday!!

Lockup and override, as previously mentioned.... I built my 1st 4 mil cub without it...big, big mistake. Other than that, you have your bases covered. CPI or Shearer pipes really like cub port layout.

Any one snap a pic for me of the radiator brackets for the lower mounts? Been so long, I can't find the brackets to mount my radiator...might have to fab something up....

Two things...I only see up to 66mm, (.080 over)...what do you mean by adjust the tab? 66.25 is .090, 66.5 is .100....must be missing somethin... And, Magic is way cheaper than the link above. 159.95 for the kit, pistons, pins, rings, bearings and all gaskets. I don't see the 795 listed on their site, but...I'm sure the pricing is similar... http://www.magicracing.com/Wiseco-Piston-K..._p_133-135.html

Wow...damn good price. Magic Racing sells that kit for 249... Is that price for the 795 series as well? I'm not sure they make them in .100 over though.... **Edit** They only make the 795 series in 64 to 66mm sizes, .5mm increments. Go to their site, click on ATV...then go to Yamaha...it's at the bottom of the PDF, they call them "racers choice" pistons....for the long rod cranks. http://www.wiseco.com/Catalogs/ATV.aspx

PM me or post a price...I would be interested for my 10 mil. I can tell you brand new adjustable Marvin Shaw struts are 40 bucks each... If you can beat that...you've got a set sold...