-
Posts
67 -
Joined
-
Last visited
About Long Rod Todd
- Birthday 05/14/1914
Contact Methods
-
AIM
yourmomsnuts
-
MSN
yourafag
-
Website URL
http://
-
ICQ
0
-
Yahoo
belowme
Previous Fields
-
My Banshee (optional)
2005 Banshee Cool head 20cc domes Shearer inframes pro-design timing plate +4 mm stroker crank (passion port) dual 33mm pwk yzf 450 front control arms and shocks (modified) 2005 YFZ front dual piston calipers w/stainless steel lines GYT-R igntion Module Boonman lightened flywheel Modded shift star 1995 blaster w/vito's big bore kit,fmf pipe,durablue axle,boysen reed valve system, +4 timing advance
Long Rod Todd's Achievements
HQ Noob (1/5)
0
Reputation
-
Thanks for the input guys. I did the longer swingarm and clutch also a TZ bearing on the PTO side of the crank and had the crank trued and re-welded (FAST Racing). I'll have to do the override tranny this winter.
-
I just finished up assembly of my new cub motor I need a starting place for jetting, mains,pilots and needles. I also need to know what heat range of plugs to run, and what would be a recommended front sprocket with the stock rear and 22'' tires. This is what I got. 4mm crank,68mm cub cylinders unported, coolhead 21cc domes, Boss racing intake 35mm pwk carbs,VF3 reeds, Shearer Inframes, timing kit, and lightened flywheel. I'm at sea level. I already have CEL needles and 55-50 pilots on order. Thanks in advance
-
I didn't know CPI pipes cost $1,000.00
-
Count me in...
-
I have a 4mm stroker with Passion racing porting. The rest of my mods are, dual 35mm Keihin carbs, Boss racing intake, K+N filters, +4 timing plate, lightened flywheel, V-Forces reeds, gyt-r ignition module, cool-head cut for stroker, and Shearer inframe pipes. I installed the reccomended main jets 145-165. I have #52 pilots installed and I believe cgl needles on the forth clip from the blunt end. This is the problem, full throttle at lower rpm the engine used to hesitate/misfire. I went up to 175 mains and the condition got better but never went away. Currently I have 190 mains installed and the problems is almost gone. I have checked the intake for air leaks with carb/brake cleaner none found. Is there any other suggestions main jets or do these strokers just love fuel. This is the first stroker that I've put together and I must say holy shit, this way faster than I thought it would be. Any other suggestions on the needles/pilots. I'm at sea level. Thanks
-
I bought all of the parts off of ebay. And then sold all of my stock stuff. At that time my bike had like 10hrs on it, all of the parts I sold went for more than expected.
-
I had to adjust the tension on the coil springs using the adjustable collars, to give it a little more clearance and to compensate for my weight. Here are some pics of the finished product. Front end view I put a 1 gallon paint can under it to give some sort of reference for height.
-
I guess I never really measured before and after but I would have to say when I compared the arms (It's been about a year since I did this) it looked like the 450 control arms where about 2 inches wider and about 1-1.5 inches farther forward. I still have the stock spindles/steering knuckles the 450 ball joints (tapered ends) fit right into the steering knuckle. As far as the tie rods go, I got +2 longer tie rods with a heim joint conversion (ebay).
-
Yeah, put one washer on each side of the control arm mount instead of the dust caps. The upper control arms are mounted the same as a stock 450 but they do come dam close to the shock, due to the larger diameter of the coil spring, made a world of difference. After I sold all of my stock parts the swap including the calipers cost me about $75? bucks not including the new powder coating. I compared width of the front suspension to my buddy's 700r and my shee is about 2 maybe 3 inches wider in the front and handles better than I ever expected.
-
Personally I like the 450 front end conversion. I have 450 front control arms, shocks and dual piston front brake calipers. I didn't modify the frame to fit the control arms, I modified the control arms to fit the frame. Front end pic This was a pic that was taken before the ride height was adjusted and the calipers had been installed.
-
I just sent that "letter" to about 20 other people. I heard about this 2 weeks ago and have been doing it since then.
-
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll pick up some more main jets and start lower. I think the problem with the plug color was due to running a little lean on the needle when breaking it in and not going full throttle that much (started with the needles in the 3rd clip from the top when first assembled). I guess I'm being a little to worried about running it lean after dumping some $$$ in to the motor.
-
I just installed a 4mm stroker, lightened flywheel (Boonman), Prodesign adjustable advance plate, v-force 2 reeds,boss racing intake manifold,cool head, Passion 12 port stroker porting, Shearer inframe pipes, 35mm PWK's with Dual K+N filters. The carbs are currently jetted with 52 pilots, DEK needles on the 5th clip position from the top, I recently moved up to 175 mains from the reccomended 160's (starting point). I have never ridden with these pipes before and seem to have a major bog at full throttle at lower rpm. The bog was worse when I had the 160 mains in. I am finally through with the break in period and was wondering if the main jets seemed a bit big considering most people seem to run 145-160 range. I didn't have much color on the plugs when using the 160's. This thing pulls like a mother on the top end and revs to the moon. Midrange throttle between 1/4-3/4 is all good. I'm at sea level with the temp between 40-60 degrees right now. So I need a sugestion on what to do with the main jets and also how much to advance my adjustable timing plate. Thanks
-
BansheeBrian gave me a good deal on some 35mm pwks. Also had new idle screws drop shipped to my door because the old ones were worn. Thanks Buddy
-
NICE INTAKES If anybody is going to upgrade to larger carbs these will add some HP.

