dajogejr

Yep...I agree. If you're going to drum up business, a little or a lot, buy space to advertise on here. The same could be said for anyone trying to drum up business.... Dave Moore is a trusted name in racing of all forms. He too was asked to work with Lee, the site admin, to purchase space to advertise to sell goods and services. I don't care how good your prices may or may not be...do the right thing, support a site that can support you back...

Far as I know...Toomey doesn't make needles for PWK series carbs, only Stockers....that could be your problem right there.

Get a billet 2nd gear...they're pretty tough to break. Several companies make 'em. Do you already have an override? I've seen a lot bigger motors run a standard tranny cut for override not breaking second gear.... Lockup clutch already??

Hey...no offense taken, and thank you for the kind words. On most bikes I've seen, be it a stock motor or a cub, a 50 pilot or smaller were used. This is at or near sea level, normal riding temps. Hell...I'm only running a 52 or 55 as my pilot in my 39's and I'm on alky.... Since he mentioned bog as he stabs it off idle...that tells me the air screw/pilot circuit are rich...coupled with my experience on jet sizes for the PWKs.... I think you're headed in the right direction....

Justin... I think if you look in the images forum, under my new 10 mil cub build. I think you can see the lower arm bolts. I hit a local metric supply place for the uppers...stainless, but not polished....

I PM'd a buddy of mine that does alky carbs for you... Does all my work, great guy..honest, and more than fair on pricing.

Crazy... What kind of riding do you plan on doing. For the price...the cubs really are hard to beat. Also...you can use your stock head, intakes, etc. for the cub. However, IMO the cub is a duner and drag race motor only.... I plan on building a Cheetah in the next year or two...just because I'm on my second cub (first 4 mil, now 10 mil) and I'd like to see how a Cheetah runs. If you're gonna build a duner/drag bike, for the price a 4 mil cub is probably the best bang for the buck... Also...with this new power, are you prepared for tranny mods, chassis/suspension mods and clutch mods to get all the power to the ground? Not trying to be a jerk...just hate to see you spend money for 100HP and not be able to get it to the ground efficiently....

Jer... That bike is looking nice... To each is own...personally, I like the 80's dated, squared off look of the banshee. It looks like a classic...and anyone that knows spark plugs from drain plugs can easily spot a banshee from a mile away.... Not a fan of the raptor plastic myself. However, with the color and decal kit on yours, it is the best I've seen yet. But, it's like putting whipped cream on horseshit.....if ya know what I'm saying... Welcome to the HQ.

Gotcha... NO. :biggrin:

I'm sorry you didn't have much luck with the kit...Justin. I'll agree that you'll need to get foot peg bolts. My shock bolts didn't work because of a no link. The lower A Arm bolts on mine worked perfect...but, I have a J Arm chassis...and his kit does not come with upper A Arm or upper J Arm bolts...those I had to buy, just like foot peg bolts, too!! I have an LSR Drag axle with a Honda style rear hub, so I had to buy other bolts. As said...my frame/build is kinda one off. I was able to use 90% of his bolts, the others I chalked up to it being a non-standard build. Again, sorry about your luck...but, I'm happy with my kit!! D

Backfire can be caused by lean or rich condition... In my experience....it's more often than not lean. But...looking at his jetting, I agree and think it's too rich. Your pilot is too rich... I don't even use that large of pilots in a cub motor. Drop the pilot down to a 48. The main won't help you when you stab it off idle, though... Drop the pilot...get a few sets of plugs, and do a plug chop to dial your main in. I'd bet you end up with a 150 to 155 main. If it's stumbling when you stab at it...it's probably too rich off the bottom...

Funny...I think my year old Ricky Stator just went south on me on my 10 mil. You can bet I'll be talking to him about a replacment....

I concur... The pipes are designed with the backpressure of silencers and stinger tubes. get pipes designed to run out of frames...or spend your money somewhere else. Besides, out of frame vs. in frame HP gain is very minimal...normally 1 to 4 HP or so. Out of frames were designed for a few reasons...and these are not all of them, only a few. 1. Easier to work on the engine 2. Less heat near the motor/intakes, no need to worry about melting air filters, outerwears, etc. 3. A little more free flowing than inframes.... Again, not all the reasons, but common ones. Inframes are generally more expensive due to more bends and silencers... Sell what you got and get true out of frames if that's what you're looking for...

Looks like we know who wears the pants in that family...LOL. Just kidding... If you're gonna get it done, get a job somehow to pay for it. Sitting here asking for us to help you convince your mom to open up purse strings simply isn't going to happen.

Time to pony up and get some work around your hood, or get rid of that bike...period. Two stroke oil, gas and spark plugs will set you back 20 bucks or so per ride...and trust me, you can fix it the right way now....or pay a LOT more later. I know it's easy for us to tell you how to spend your money...when it's not our own. However, we're speaking from experience. A wise man once said... "You can go broke trying to save money"

In addition to what bigboy said...I'd recommend having the crank welded and trued as well... The problem is riding season is starting all over the country right now...most shops are busy with customers work trying to get them finished up for the season...call around, see who can get to your motor in a reasonable time frame!!

Stock tires??? They spin and fry with 35 HP...how do you think they're gonna do with double that??? Get some tires....then work on air pressure and gearing.

Justin... To your point, here's all I can say. I have a cut frame...cut plastics, aftermarket swinger, rounhouse, no link suspension. I'm also not running front or rear bumpers. I have a bag of bolts left over. I did have to get creative with the rear brake mount, and I did have to buy a different lower shock bolt due to my no link. I was able to "find" a fastener to do my whole bike, and I had to mount a fuel pump and a few other odds and ends that a stocker will not have. My point is/was the quality of the bolts and the look of them. They are not show quality polished, nor did I expect them to be for the price I paid. However, I think it is more than a fair bolt kit in my opinion....but, I can see your point as well...

Wow... If you think 85 to 90 bucks is expensive...get the alloyboltz kit then. Twice as much. I have a round house swinger....so, can't say anything about the carrier bolts. They don't make footpeg bolts, upper A arm bolts or swingarm pivot bolts. You might have an older kit...but the kit I bought around a month ago doesn't include the above, and I specifically asked the guy (I think his name was Rick) and he says they do not offer them....and they sure weren't in my kit. If someone else wanted to put together a complete, stainless...semi-polished kit for anywhere near this price, I'd say go for it. But...I think it's the best kit out there....as of right now.

Nope... I'm going to sell my chrome aero tube metal tech arm for a -2.... LOL... I've never heard of reeds not lasting due to a large motor. I have heard of reeds (coated carbon fiber) not lasting as long due to alky run through them....

And that...my friend, is why I have two bikes. A bone stock (ok, pipe and air filter) 400EX to play ride and push through trails...and my 10 mil drag bike. I got a few runs (1/2 throttle) on my drag bike this weekend, 1st time out. Lost spark...etc. Put it on the trailer, and bombed around the dunes in my 4 poke nearly all weekend. Best of both worlds... Why I never expect to win a drag race with my 400, I know I push a button...and I'm good to go. Beat on it all weekend, didn't even use a 1/2 tank of gas....

It was probably my buddies. He lives at the dunes.... I think back then it was on a neon green frame...was that it by chance??

You're fighting a losing battle already if you want to keep it on the trail, too. Buy a 450 and mod it... You're simply not going to get the kinda power you want to whip that 450...then be able to ride it in tight trails too. It would take thousands of dollars of motor work SECOND, chassis and suspension work first to even think about this. Some people will tell you here it can be done....but I'm going to say it can't be.... Put 70 + HP on a banshee with a stock or 2 over arm...and you'll be steering with the front tires in the air, or trying to.... 4 strokes put out a less-violent type of power, that hug the ground, keep traction and catapult them like a tractor.... Sorry....you just can't have it both ways in my opinion....especially not on a 1500 dollar budget. You can try...but in the end I think you'll be disappointed you wasted 1500 to 2000 dollars and you didn't accomplish what you were trying to do....smoke a 450 at their own game....and a highly modded 450 at that. I think you wasted money on that hinson. For that amount you could've used stock inner and outer hub, billet basket, ran a pusher mod (pancake bearing) and a lockup clutch...and never had to worry about the clutch again. And only spent half that.

If it backfires it's probably lean... What size jets are in there now?

Look for a Vito's monoblock 404 cylinder used in good shape. By the time you resleeve and port your OEM cylinders...you could probably bolt on a Vito's motor for about the same.. What is your budget? And where do you ride?